rossislider

Inseam size/length is regular.

I prefer to bring the water to just below a boil and maintain that heat level until that tissue that covers the the nasal bones and top up the skull split and pull away from the bone (usually 10-20 minutes but the bigger and or older the animal, the longer it tends to take). Once that happens, I remove from the heat and let them sit in that water for at least 30 minutes. The water is slowly cooling, but still working on the tissue without continuing to heat and weaken bone. We then spray with the pressure washer to remove all tissue. If you go careful inside the nasal cavity and know where to spray, you can USUALLY get most of that soft tissue out without damaging those inner nasal coils. Forceps and needle nose pliers will usually take care of the rest. Maceration or beetles is definitely safer for the bone, but if you live in a residential neighborhood like us, maceration isn’t an option. The smells that come off of that are TERRIBLE and carry a fair distance. We have done a handful of bears, lions, pigs, etc. using maceration on a friends property, on rare occasions. Maceration works great, but be prepared to burn all of your clothes after and for your skin, especially hands, to smell awful for a couple of days. Soap alone won’t get rid of it, only time or stronger chemicals. However, with maceration, if done correctly, little to no pressure washing is necessary. Generally most of the remaining tissue will come off with a hose. That and pressure washing with maceration will spray that foul nastiness everywhere and you will be covered head to toe in it. I unfortunately leaned the hard way. We don’t want beetles around our home so go to a friend if that should ever be necessary. If you decide to start doing this a lot, invest in some good waterproof commercial fishing clothing, bib and jacket (like commercial fishermen wear in bad weather) and a face cover (like a clear untinted welding mask). It is worth the investment to keep yourself dry and clean, especially in the colder months. We still kick ourselves for not spending the money on this gear sooner. It makes a HUGE difference when you are spraying for hours. We get some funny looks from people driving by. We have been asked if we are cooking meth by some neighbors in jest (if you have seen Breaking Bad, you know). Good luck, hope some of this helps.

Actually, it depends on the animal. For the most part, some combination of Dawn and Oxy. The Oxy can be strong and rough on the bone if you use too much, so we minimize how much we use. None on thinner boned animals. It is nice because it is fantastic for breaking down tissue (much better than Dawn alone). It (Oxy) makes for quicker and easier spraying, but use too much and simmer in it for too long and the bone will get chalky and you will see a lot more bone separation as I mentioned above. Less Oxy is better until you get a feel for it. Dawn alone works fine and is much more gentle on the bone. But it will require more work when spraying. If you are just doing your own skulls and have lots of time, I would probably avoid using Oxy.

3000 is great if you know how and where to spray, nozzles to use, etc. If you don't have a lot of experience spraying them, know they weak spots on a skull, and how to avoid them, etc. stick below 2000 PSI. Even then be careful. We see A LOT of skulls with blown out nasal cavities, separated top nasal bones, etc. that can be avoided with a little patience, caution, and experience. Unfortunately we even see this from lots of posts by "skull guys" who rush the job. Hit me up if you have any questions. I'd be happy to help anyone with tips. We, my son and I, have spent the several years doing 1000+ skulls while trying pretty much every method you have heard of. Happy to offer tips to anyone looking to do their own.

Update on my buddy who I posted about earlier on this thread. After many promises of "2 more weeks" for months, Kevin went MIA and quit responding to calls and emails. Eventually we were able to track down Kevin's home address. My buddy let him know that he would be showing up at his house if he did not reply. Kevin asked him when he could come by and that he would have the unfinished "parts" of his son's deer ready for pickup. When my buddy went by, no one was home, or at least that would come to the door, but the antlers and cape were on the doorstep. My buddy had been told that the cape had been tanned, but it had not and was completely ruined. At least he was able to get his antlers back and took them to a real taxidermist who had a cape my buddy could buy. Obviously, he lost the 50% down he had paid. I have no doubt Kevin is still taking in animals and 50% deposits.

LOL, you don't even know me, who I know, or what I know. How can you make statements suggesting you know more than a person you don't know or know anything about? Maybe you do and maybe you don't. Anyhow, it's all good, do what you have do.

I think some of us are mature enough to judge guides and outfitters based on personal encounters and a case by case basis.

I have a question for all of you gurus. I bought my Omega 300 about 10 months ago and hopefully will have it before too much longer. This one should cover the majority of my rifles. But, like rifles, 10 is better than 1 right? So what suppressor do you recommend for my next (rifle not handgun).

I bought my first about 10 months ago and used this exact process, nfalawyers.com for the trust and went to Healy's for the rest. It was a really simple and easy process. Still waiting on the government to let me pick it up (this is the unavoidable sucky part). Hopefully soon.

This sucks. I've met Steve on a handful of occasions. Really nice guy and great family. If true, I hope this is some sort of simple error or oversight that can be corrected.

Pray for snow to bring them down off the mountain. Was up there last weekend and there was little to nothing in the low country yet.

I'm guessing they are still waiting on Newberg to get back to them with which ones he wants so they can set them aside before publishing the list. He is probably out of service range on one of the many other tags they have gift wrapped for him.

If you can hold off till Black Friday, I regularly see these for around $120.

It has been a while since my original post asking for assistance with my son's skull cleaning business (see link to post below). http://www.coueswhitetail.com/forums/topic/71875-updated-wpics-my-son-wants-to-clean-your-skulls/ Many of you let him cut his teeth on your skulls and gain experience, offered coaching, tipped him some money for the skull she worked on for you, and even donated supplies. I wanted to thank you all for your help and provide you with an update on his business. After the original post we reached out to a friend at AZGFD who confirmed that he would need a taxidermy license to charge money for the work he did, so he saved up until he had the required $150 for his license and made it official! Since then he has been busy cleaning skulls every weekend and many week nights after school. He already has a nice portfolio of work he has done including 50+ javelina, a couple of bull elk, 10+ Coues bucks (and a dead head doe), a few mule deer, a raccoon, a few coyotes, a small fox, an aoudad, and a couple of turkeys. It has been an interesting experience to say the least, but he has managed to pay back his loan to mom and dad, buy all the equipment he needs, put some money towards this summer's boy scout camp, and even have a little left over for fun. Thus far it has been a great thing for him learning about business, budgeting, responsibility, etc. Yesterday he finished up the last of the skulls he had waiting in the freezer. Since he gets out of school next week, he is hoping to find some more work to keep him busy. If any of you have anything sitting in the freezer you've been meaning to get cleaned and whitened, please let us know. He is offering some super discounted off-season summer pricing to keep work coming in and keep him busy. Coyote, Fox, or similar - $25 Javelina - $30 Deer or Cow Elk - $40 Bull Elk - $50 *If you have something else or something that requires special care let us know and I'll work with him to come up with a quote. We may have access to beetles if you have something extra delicate. He would also love for you to follow his business Instagram page a follow at gr8hunterskullz Some of these pictures are final products, some are post boil/pre-whitening, and various other stages throughout the process.

Crap, been trying to find some of these for over a year. If the buyer wants to sell 100 of them, please let me know.

We picked up a Ravin R10 a couple of years back when my son broke his wrist and had to have surgery to have pins put in his hand and wrist a month before his elk hunt. He was unable to draw his bow leading up to and during his hunt, and was fortunately able to qualify for a temporary crossbow permit while he was healing up. We probably would not have spent that much if it were a temporary thing, but my wife had also just had a brain tumor removed a few months prior. She now has permanent balance/vertigo issues now due to irreparable auditory nerve damage. So she has a permanent CHAMP and crossbow permit. As far as crossbows go, there are a couple of premium brands, Ravin being one of them. I saw this year that their newest model shoots 500 FPS (the crossbow speeds listed for Ravin are accurate legit speeds using their arrows, I have tested ours though a chronograph and is is consistently at the advertised 400 FPS). We can consistently group our R10 in groups the size of a baseball at 100 yards. It isn't like shooting a bow, much more like a rifle. I personally enjoy shooting my bow much more than the crossbow. But if physical circumstances don't allow it, a crossbow would be a good option.

That is probably my son that you are referring to who does the euros. Shoot me a PM and we can talk details. In the mean time, please (for whoever you take it to), keep it cold or frozen so it does not start to rot. Crazy how much that has become an issue this year. Thanks

Talley are convenient and economical, but in recent years I have completely gone away from them. As others suggested, I also prefer to use a 20 MOA rail to get extra elevation.

Congrats! Fifth year in a row, great draw luck and hunting.

I don't think anyone suggested he shoot the 7.62x51 down his 6.5CM. I think pretty much everyone on here said essentially the same thing you did. I believe the confusion is that he was sent a magazine wit the rifle designed for 7.62x51 (.308 Win), which uses a case that is comparable to his 6.5 CM. So it is likely that this same magazine is designed for both calibers. But you know more than I likely ever will, so if I am incorrect about the magazine please let me know.

The magazine is a different situation because those are made for a case size and not a bullet size. For example, I have multiple Tikkas in multiple calibers, but several of them use the same magazine (part number). Their 6.5 CM and .308 are two that use the same magazine. This is probably the situation with your friend. If the bullets feed into his magazine properly he should be fine. Just make sure the correct bullet goes into the chamber.

$25 for all species for the year.

I believe that would be youth hunters who lost a parent in the line of duty.

Yes, that was the stated intent.

This passed unanimously.