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I'm looking for handload info from those of you experienced with the 6.5X55 SE. I'm curious about what kind of velocity I can safely attain in a modern action. I'd like to get a new 6.5 for this fall and am considering both the 6.5X55 and the 6.5 Creedmoor. I like the new Tikka T3X and have been considering a Ruger American as well, but don't really want to replace the cheap stock. It will be a hunting rifle and something else to shoot when I get the urge. I'll probably stick to bullets it the 140gr range in either cartridge. The Creedmoor appears to top out at ~2700 fps with 140gr pills. The Swede sure seems like it could have a lot of potential in one of those new Tikka's!

Up for sale is a set of RCBS 300wsm dies lightly used with box and no shell holder $25. Also I have a .223/5.56x45 RCBS small base seating die only also with no shell holder $25. Located in Tucson and will ship on buyers dime. PM or txt 520591188nine

Cleaning house sale and making room for #3(kiddo). Comment in post or PM me and i will go with the first to comment/message. Located in San Tan Valley/Queen Creek area. Will meet within reason especially if you want multiple items. Thanks Small grill (heavy duty) - 35 SOLD Long bed camper - No glass on front part but has sliding windows and key to lock rear window hatch - 35 SOLD .38 spcl/.357 brass (403 peices) - 20 SOLD RCBS Jr - 40 SOLD Lee Hand Press (new) - 25 Montana 41 mag dies(3) needs a little clean - 10 Lee 44 mag dies(2) needs a little clean - 10 Lee .38 spcl/.357 carbide dies(4) Brand new - 35 Lee 284 winchester die (2) couple rust spots but nothing that can't be cleaned - 20 300 Win Mag once fired brass 50 pieces (a few are nickel plated) - 10 SOLD 38 Cal (.357) Berry's 125 gr Flat point (250 bullets) Brand new never opened - 25 RCBS F L die set 8mm Rem Mag - 10

I am building a custom 338 RUM and I am looking for brass or loaded ammo which I can disassemble and use to make custom loads.

Only powder available last time I was able to pick some up and having some trouble finding data for Accurate Powders 4350. Everything is H4350 or IMR-4350 but hardly finding anything AA-4350. Using it to reload .243 with 80gr Hornady GMX. Any help is much appreciated.

I have one pound of unopened Retumbo. I got it for a friend that decided he didn't need it. $35 is what I paid. Would be will to trade for bullseye or unique.

Annealing Cases I thought I would do a little review for those hard core reloading nuts like me that do everything in preparation to achieve the best accuracy and precision for long range hunting/shooting. I have done just about everything that I can in case prep to achieve the best SD/ES with accuracy and precision this includes annealing your cases. Most anneal to extend case life, I anneal for accuracy. I will explain. It starts when you fire a case, then size the case you are work hardening the brass. You will eventually split your case necks if you do not anneal. Annealing softens the brass and in turn can help with accuracy too. I have found if I anneal after every firing I can keep my ES 9/SD 3 down in the single digits with extreme accuracy because the case necks are more uniform with tension. If I did not anneal every time then my ES 18/SD 9 was a little higher but not much I was able to stay under 20 fps at least. I started with hand annealing with 2 Benzomatic torches facing each other. I apply some 750 degree Tempilaq to the case so I know when it has annealed. When the Tempilaq melts you are at your desired temp. Annealing process is 650 degrees for 15 minutes or so BUT if we did that the heat would travel down the case to the case head which is what you do not want. So in order for it to anneal properly we need to bring the neck of the case to 750 degrees (most preferred temp). We can then quench in water. Some think that water would harden like metal but instead it does nothing. The case will remain soft. The reason why most quench is so the heat will not travel down to the case head. I have been annealing by hand with great success but when I started annealing after every firing it started to become a pain and inconsistent. The Ballistic Edge Model 400 annealing machine was well packaged with well explained instructions for set up. I had to do some playing but was able to start annealing within 30 minutes. I did well over 50 cases within 15 minutes. Cases rotate thru the dual flames as the shell-plate turns. Torch height is adjustable, as is torch angle and intensity. Torch holders will accept any 1/2" to 5/8" diameter tip. After passing through the flame, cases drop out after a quarter-turn. Underneath is a fan that can be turned on as needed when annealing shorter-height cases or for just keeping the case heads cooler. The model 400 shell-plate on top can be made for one caliber or multiple calibers. When researching the different machines I found out that if you have to mess with the speed of how fast the plate turns that was one more variable you had to deal with, the model 400 has a constant speed. Eliminating the need to adjust each torch after they were properly adjusted, both torch tips were hooked up to a 5 gal BBQ tank with a splitter making the propane tank as the on/off valve. In closing if you are trying to achieve the best accuracy, ES/SD, and case life then this is a step that you may want to take into consideration. First see if annealing will even help by hand annealing, if it does help then this maybe something to consider. If you rarely shoot then you are probably better off by hand annealing. I know this machine will last me my lifetime by just the way it was built. Personally the Model 400 is the best for the money, design, material used, and the one on one help. You can call Phil Keil (Ballistics Edge owner) and he would be more than happy to help you out at any time or you can visit his website at annealingmachines.com. I do not work for or are associated with Ballistic Edge MFG. This is my personal views.

I have a brand new unused 300 RUM neck sizing die. I have decided to go a different route and would like to trade for a pound of the following powders: Varget, H414, or H335. Also willing to sell for cash but would rather trade.

I have recently aquired a .300 wsm and trying to find brass is a nightmare. If anyone has some brass they would be willing to part with I would be happy to purchase it. Thanks.

I know the Berger VLD's have been in short supply lately - especially for the 7mm Mag long range shooters. We just got a decent supply of the 168gr back in stock - YES we ship all over AZ and the US - to buy over the phone call toll-free 1-855-321-GUNS (4867)

I have three sets of dies that I would like to trade or would be willing to sell. I have a full 3 dies set of RCBS Carbide 45 acp & 9mm dies. I also have a set of 38 sppecial dies. Non carbide in the green box. I am looking for a trade for a set of 45lc (long colt) rcbs carbide dies as I have aquired a new firearm. Any other trades and offers welcomed. I didn't think picutres were necessary as they are just dies but if you want some let me know and I will either post them or email/txt them to you.

I am in desperate search of anybody that has some of these new in 2013 Nosler Accubond in 30 caliber 125 grain. My load is dialed in, my scope is dialed in, my gun is ready and I dont have enough for my hunt. Ran through them and can't find anymore everybody is sold out I have searched high and low. I could easily change to a different load but nothing shoots out of my gun like this load and I have custom turret for it and all. Not even looking for a full box if it matters, 10 bullets would be enough to get me by I can back them up with some Nosler green tip hunting ballistic tips. I called nosler and they are 45-60 days out from any more production. Any direction, leads or ideas are appreciated. Thanks, Cowman

2 boxes minus 20 (180ct) $65 includes shipping. $60 local in Flagstaff http://www.midwayusa.com/product/130769/nosler-bonded-performance-bullets-22-caliber-224-diameter-64-grain-spitzer-solid-base-box-of-100 Nosler's website has data for this bullet in 223 (1-12 twist 26" barrel) and 22-250 (1-14 twist). I haven't tried them yet, the 20 that are missing I gave to a friend to try but he has not yet worked them up. This is basically an Accubond without an Accutip.

SOLD

I have really been wanting to get into reloading for a long time now. I don't know too many people that do it themselves so I can't get many tips there so I thought I'd ask you guys. I am hesitant on the startup costs of it first of all. I see the prices at bass pro and other places and that's a little discouraging. Is there any types or brands that are better than the others? Does it even matter? I'd be happy with something simple if it does the job? So what all is needed really? Where can I go to get the best how to tips? I know there is videos on YouTube that I have seen and I'm a quick leaner and I know I would love the hobby. Any one on here have any extra equipment they would sell me? I will be reloading for a .270, .223 and 7mm/08 right now. Hopefully will get into something in the 6.5 caliber with more experience. Thanks in advance for any help!

Trying to find a set of carbide 9mm dies, with taper crimp, not roll. Not wanting to pay 2x-3x on ebay, so I figured I'd try this forum. Willing to pay normal prices/cost for new dies, adjusted for used. Trades on my end would be pre-stupid prices too. Trade straight up or w/cash on either end depending on what's involved. For trade, I have the following: Primers- CCI BR-4 9mm-115gr and 124gr bullets 40s&w-gallon bag of once fired brass 44mag-once fired brass, 50ish 25-06-RCBS FL dies, lots of brass(NIB win and once fired mix), approx 40 115gr accubonds/ballistic tip(mixed) 308cal-Sierra 220 BTHP match, open box of 100, maybe a bullet or two missing, would need to count Assortment of loaded factory ammunition-22lr, 223, 5.56, 9mm, 38spl, 357mag, 45acp, 300 WM, 308, 30-30 1lb cans of WST powder Thanks.