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Starting my venture into loading for my .270 win. I know, horrible timing to get into loading.

Rifle is Ruger M77 tang safety. 

Looking for any CWT members that have any information, loads, equipment, components, etc. They are willing to share/part with. Advice on presses, dies, etc. I'm all ears!

I recently bought a couple lbs of IMR 4831 from a cwt member. Primers seem to be the hardest component to acquire.

I started loading lead quail & Tungsten turkey loads a couple years ago so I am not completely new to loading. Just never metallic loading.

Again, thank you to the Cwt community for always being a reliable source or outdoor camaraderie!

 

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That IMR-4831 will work fine in your .270.  H-4831 is supposed to be the powder for a .270, but I used the IMR version for quite awhile with a 130gr bullet. I pretty much stay with RL-22 now.  

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For deer = 130 gr Nosler ballistic tip using 55 gr H4831sc.And for elk = 150 gr Nosler partition using 52 gr IMR 4350.Case 2.540, OAL 3.340.

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I have some misc 270 reloading items you can have if you can put them to use.  I have had them in my ammo bag in the garage for about 20 years and I don't reload.  A neighbor gave them to me so I'll pay it forward.  If your interested, let me know.679298209_IMG_2300(1).thumb.JPG.32f50a529de627cfcb0196a9f1f13a0c.JPGIMG_2289.thumb.JPG.c68f612c420c2b4fb025cef74276d8d4.JPG754395956_IMG_2292(1).thumb.JPG.7b1ddbb18bc1fe18c90e00643a6c6b76.JPG948257783_IMG_2287(1).thumb.JPG.a69efb65d9397c168286d15a79fc19b3.JPG

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130, 140, or 150 grain will work fine.  I use Barnes 140 grain TSX and they are the best shooting for me.  Since they’re solid copper, they’re long.  I load them just long enough to fit in the magazine but you will want to get the equipment and a modified case to check that.  Either of the 4831 powders work fine also IMR 4350.  My 270 is a Browning A Bolt Stainless Stalker that’s just about shot out.  I got it in 92 and have put at least 100 rounds through it a year since.  It wants perfect brass, so it has to be Nosler.    

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2 hours ago, bigbuckfever said:

I have some misc 270 reloading items you can have if you can put them to use.  I have had them in my ammo bag in the garage for about 20 years and I don't reload.  A neighbor gave them to me so I'll pay it forward.  If your interested, let me know.679298209_IMG_2300(1).thumb.JPG.32f50a529de627cfcb0196a9f1f13a0c.JPGIMG_2289.thumb.JPG.c68f612c420c2b4fb025cef74276d8d4.JPG754395956_IMG_2292(1).thumb.JPG.7b1ddbb18bc1fe18c90e00643a6c6b76.JPG948257783_IMG_2287(1).thumb.JPG.a69efb65d9397c168286d15a79fc19b3.JPG

Absolutely would love to use some "pay it forward" gear. I'll shoot ya a PM. Honestly, thank you! Cwt members are top notch!

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Loading a bottle neck cartridge like the 270 requires some precision tools to properly set your dies up. So you may want to start with a good caliper that will measure to the third decimal. Next you may want to buy a Hornady headspace gauge and also a bullet seating comparator. Both of these tools offer enough precision to set your dies up for a proper sizing bump for proper headspace and correct cartridge base to bullet ogive measurements. Next buy a reloading book or visit one of the powder websites for loads that may work in your rifle. Not a good idea using someone's pet load in your rifle. What works in other rifles may turn out hazardous in your rifle. Finally start with new brass or ammo that has been fired in your rifle. For a novice buying once fired brass can turn out to be a lot of head scratching and problem solving you may or may not be able to solve. Glad to help with any questions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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13 hours ago, L Cazador said:

Loading a bottle neck cartridge like the 270 requires some precision tools to properly set your dies up. So you may want to start with a good caliper that will measure to the third decimal. Next you may want to buy a Hornady headspace gauge and also a bullet seating comparator. Both of these tools offer enough precision to set your dies up for a proper sizing bump for proper headspace and correct cartridge base to bullet ogive measurements. Next buy a reloading book or visit one of the powder websites for loads that may work in your rifle. Not a good idea using someone's pet load in your rifle. What works in other rifles may turn out hazardous in your rifle. Finally start with new brass or ammo that has been fired in your rifle. For a novice buying once fired brass can turn out to be a lot of head scratching and problem solving you may or may not be able to solve. Glad to help with any questions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have a legit set of calipers. Brand new winchester brass. And a ton of once fired remington brass that was shot from my rifle.

The heads pace guage and bullet seating comparator could use a little more explanation. I'm very meticulous when it comes to the attention to detail stuff. 

I've been looking at the loads for IMR4831 online. I'll order some load manuals. You recommend some? 

I'm at the mercy of finding primers right now. So I'm in no rush at all to get anything loaded up. More in the search of information stage right now. 

Look forward to chattin' you up some more on it!

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There's no way to set your sizing die bump without a headspace guage and there's no way to set up your seating die without a bullet comparator that measures cartridge base to ogive. You'll need to know how to find your seating depth for your rifle as well. The Sierra manual is excellent. You'll also  need a manual decapper.

If you're meticulous you'll need all these items to get it where you like.

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Just about every reloading manual has data for a .270 and IMR-4831 listed. Berger 130, 140, and 150 gr bullets. Nosler 140 and 160. Hornady 110, 130, 140-145, and 150. Barnes 140 and 150 grain. Sierra #5 (not the newest) has 90, 110, 130, 140, and 150. Pick which bullet you want to shoot and go with their manual.  My two cents says that the Hornady goes into headspace better than the rest, but that's just one part of it. No matter which reloading guide you go with, you will learn something.

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Lot's of good info and videos on the web. Watch videos by Eric Cortina and Panhandle Precision, to name two.

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I had a custom "Sendero" style REM700 270 built and with a RCBS press and 60+ year old dies from my uncle loaded up ammo that went .33 inch at 100 yards. The one specialty tool that was essential to my work was a way to measure from to base of the cartridge to the ogive of the bullet. the ogive is the point where the front of the bullet is at the diameter of the bore. Your rifle will perform the best with the bullet set back from the rifling. Here is a video discussing measuring base to ogive.

 

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