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Muzzle Break

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Hi all, I wanted some advice on Muzzle Breaks. I currently shoot a tikka T3 in 300 win mag with a B & C stock. When I shoot it I would like to stay on target so that I can tell where I hit. I went to a lighter Gun because it is easier to carry. This is a great gun and shoots great. I was thinking of putting a muzzle break on it to tame it down a little. (Keep it from jumping around). I dont know much about Muzzle Breaks, but I would like one that wont kill my ears and one that is removable. I know that there are a lot of different designs out there, please tell me witch one you like and dislike. Thanks for your help.

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With a lighter weight .300 WM, I don't know of any brakes that will:

1. Kill recoil enough to watch impact on target every time. Depend a lot of shooting position, form, target distance, etc.

2. Not ring your ears. Muzzle brakes are loud.

 

There are some that are clamp on models that work OK, but are usually quite a bit bigger. They will change POI and barrel harmonics. Like the Witt Machine brand. www.wittmachine.net

 

I like thread-on brakes that are threaded onto the barrel, and are tapered down to barrel dimensions in the back or turned to match barrel dimensions. Nothing to catch on scabbards or in a pack.

I like brakes that have NO ports on the bottom. When shooting prone, they kick up dust/dirt/rocks in your face.

 

I have/had a few different brakes.

Badger Ordinance "Thruster" works great. On two rifles I currently have, a 6.5 SLR that kicks like my .223, and a .300RUM that kicks like my .25-06 Ackley.

APA Micro Bastard is what I am putting on my current build. A lighter weight 7RM. Hope to keep it about 9-9.5# complete. I have shot a 7RM with one installed, and it was a huge difference than a similar rifle with no brake.

KDF (has ports 360° Like a Vias) was on my old .300RUM barrel and a .270 WIN that I sold. Worked great except when shooting prone. They did not work quite as well as the Badger or APA, but made a noticeable difference.

 

Read a very in depth report on muzzle brakes here. http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/08/21/muzzle-brake-summary-of-field-test-results/ It gives reports and ratings for recoil reduction, increase in DB, etc. Be sure to check all of the different tests.

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With a lighter weight .300 WM, I don't know of any brakes that will:

1. Kill recoil enough to watch impact on target every time. Depend a lot of shooting position, form, target distance, etc.

2. Not ring your ears. Muzzle brakes are loud.

 

There are some that are clamp on models that work OK, but are usually quite a bit bigger. They will change POI and barrel harmonics. Like the Witt Machine brand. www.wittmachine.net

 

I like thread-on brakes that are threaded onto the barrel, and are tapered down to barrel dimensions in the back or turned to match barrel dimensions. Nothing to catch on scabbards or in a pack.

I like brakes that have NO ports on the bottom. When shooting prone, they kick up dust/dirt/rocks in your face.

 

I have/had a few different brakes.

Badger Ordinance "Thruster" works great. On two rifles I currently have, a 6.5 SLR that kicks like my .223, and a .300RUM that kicks like my .25-06 Ackley.

APA Micro Bastard is what I am putting on my current build. A lighter weight 7RM. Hope to keep it about 9-9.5# complete. I have shot a 7RM with one installed, and it was a huge difference than a similar rifle with no brake.

KDF (has ports 360° Like a Vias) was on my old .300RUM barrel and a .270 WIN that I sold. Worked great except when shooting prone. They did not work quite as well as the Badger or APA, but made a noticeable difference.

 

Read a very in depth report on muzzle brakes here. http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/08/21/muzzle-brake-summary-of-field-test-results/ It gives reports and ratings for recoil reduction, increase in DB, etc. Be sure to check all of the different tests.

Great advice from Lance. I also have a Badger Thruster on my Sendero 300 RUM. It has tamed it to where my 11 year loves to shoot it with no hesitation. I've got a great gun smith in Chandler who can custom make or copy any type of brake you want. I'd tell him what your hoping to do, and I'm sure he can give you some great advice. Last guy I sent to him for a custom brake ended up spending a little over $200 if I am not mistaken. I'll double check.

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Kill 2 birds with one stone, get a suppressor.

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Kill 2 birds with one stone, get a suppressor.

 

HIJACK- does suppressor also reduce recoil?? Never shot with them but would love to get into it.

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Kill 2 birds with one stone, get a suppressor.

HIJACK- does suppressor also reduce recoil?? Never shot with them but would love to get into it.

Yes

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What did you say??? LOL

 

Sorry, my ears are still ringing from my daughters muzzle break from back in October...

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I did a bunch of research before I bought one from this guy. Several of my friends have bought some now and I'm getting ready to order 2 more. He will even contour the brake to fit your barrel. You can have it installed by a smith or if your barrel in threaded, you could get some thrust washers and time it yourself. David

 

 

www.muzzlebrakesandmore.com

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Thanks for all the good info and recommendation. I am glad I ask the question. Who in the north valley would you recommend to install a muzzle brake? Thanks for all the help

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very cool video. I wish all manufactures did that to show how effective their product is.

 

Hijack again-

 

You guys with vias:

 

The Vias website claims they are MUCH quieter than other industry breaks. Would you agree. That has always been by issue with them. I wanted to put one on my rifle for my daughter but opted not too.

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