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Camofreak

Bullets tight when chambered **Update**

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Once the brass has been work hardened thru repeated firings, you can expect some spring back after shoulder bumping with your original die setting.

Which is one reason why I anneal after each firing.

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If you are just neck sizing a WSM stop. I have loaded for 5 different WSM and a few SAUMS. Every single one had issues when you just neck size the brass. It is also well documented that neck sizing the WSM's causes chambering issues later. I FL size everything now and have not had a problem with tight brass since. May not be the issue you are having but just in case. I also bump shoulders back just a touch on all them. I have tried annealing my WSM brass and I am either doing something wrong or it just wont work with the pressures but after about 2 or 3 reloads the brass cracks just below the shoulder. Brass is cheap enough and readily available so I quit. I get about 10 to 12 reloads before having to toss the brass. I have also learned that Winchester brass is crap for WSM and SAUMS. No issues at all with Remington, Norma, and Nosler brass. Have found the Norma to be the most consistent with length and weight.

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How hot are you getting the brass when you anneal? Usually brass cracks when it gets too hard, or if you way over anneal and shorthand and ruin the brass. It only takes 4-7 seconds depending on make and cartridge.

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After some you tube searches I understand things a lot better. Gonna start bump sizing as well. Its the only thing that make sense what could be going on.

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After some you tube searches I understand things a lot better. Gonna start bump sizing as well. Its the only thing that make sense what could be going on.

 

When you bump the shoulder back, start long, and turn the die down ever so slightly, rerun it, and measure the shoulder datum. You want between .001-.003" of shoulder bump back. No more. .001" is a tiny amount to turn the die down, so measure carefully. Even locking the die down tighter or looser in the press can make a .001" difference. I have a mark on my press, and when I get my die set and the lock ring tightened down, I Mark the lock ring to match the mark on the die. Makes it easy next time you spin in the die to make sure you are in the same depth every time.

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After some you tube searches I understand things a lot better. Gonna start bump sizing as well. Its the only thing that make sense what could be going on.

When you bump the shoulder back, start long, and turn the die down ever so slightly, rerun it, and measure the shoulder datum. You want between .001-.003" of shoulder bump back. No more. .001" is a tiny amount to turn the die down, so measure carefully. Even locking the die down tighter or looser in the press can make a .001" difference. I have a mark on my press, and when I get my die set and the lock ring tightened down, I Mark the lock ring to match the mark on the die. Makes it easy next time you spin in the die to make sure you are in the same depth every time.

 

 

Lance, how do you measure that and what do you use?

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After some you tube searches I understand things a lot better. Gonna start bump sizing as well. Its the only thing that make sense what could be going on.

 

When you bump the shoulder back, start long, and turn the die down ever so slightly, rerun it, and measure the shoulder datum. You want between .001-.003" of shoulder bump back. No more. .001" is a tiny amount to turn the die down, so measure carefully. Even locking the die down tighter or looser in the press can make a .001" difference. I have a mark on my press, and when I get my die set and the lock ring tightened down, I Mark the lock ring to match the mark on the die. Makes it easy next time you spin in the die to make sure you are in the same depth every time.

Lance, how do you measure that and what do you use?

http://m.hornady.com/store/Lock-N-Load-Headspace-Kit-With-Body-1-Each/

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