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Remington 700 Switch barrel?

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I will be re-barreling one of my Remington 700 rifles this year and have been considering the possibility of a switch barrel set up. If anyone owns, or has owned, one I would be interested In how it worked out for you. I do not intend to use either the pinning or welding process to secure the recoil lug. I have an idea of using epoxy to secure the recoil lug and action together that I am going to test on some scrap metal. If it does not work to my satisfaction I will scrap the switch barrel idea.

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Thanks. Good idea about talking to Lester. The few SB guns I have seen were BR rigs and he is really into that. Just have to make sure to take a paycheck to drop on powder. I have a mill and could pin a lug myself but there is something about boring a hole in my receiver parallel to the barrel thread that does not appeal to me. The gun is just a range toy and I am having a hard time choosing what caliber to re-barrel it to. A switch barrel would mean I could pick them all.

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If you are talking about setting it up like a Savage the barrel nut will secure the lug in place, no need for pins or epoxy. Even if you are not planning on using a barrel nut system the shoulder on the barrel will secure the lug just fine as well. Every lug on factory 700s isn't pinned or attached to the receiver in anyway, just pinched together between the shoulder on the barrel and the receiver face.

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I'll echo what stomp442 said.

Also, I would stay away from using epoxy between the recoil lug and action. You want metal to metal contact in that area.

I have rebarreled a dozen or so 700s and have never pinned or welded recoil lugs. My action wrench has a recess that does a nice job of centering the recoil lug.

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I'm fairly familiar with the 700. I have rebarreld around 12, starting with rough turned blanks, and blueprinted 4 actions. I would not put epoxy between the parts. The 700 action is usually around 0.030 larger than the recoil lug. I would bevel epoxy in there from the diameter of the receiver down to the recoil lug. I would also put some to the back of the lug to the action above the height of the bedding block in the HS stock. It may not sound like much but those pins have to be less than 0.100. It won't take that much to match their strength. If I ever change my mind the tab can be cut off the recoil lug. The action can then be centered in the lathe and everything else turned off. The action remains unmodified.The finish on the rifle is not an issue, it gets sprayed with Aluma-hyde. My goal would to be able to swap barrels without removing the action from the stock or the scope from the rifle. I do not tighten my barrels to the Remington specification of having a big fat lawyer jump on the end of a 6 foot cheater bar. I use hand tight plus 35 to 45 degrees. It is not hard to break them loose and they don't come loose on their own.

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Iv seen them before where the recoil lug is pinned to the action and is held secure in the stock by two Allen head screws. with all of it bedded it should remain secure. And you don't have to take it out of the stock to remove barrel.

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I have seen that done. I just don't like the idea of drilling the action, what can I say, I am picky. The strongest 3/32 pin on McMaster Carr is rated at 1400 lbs double shear. Pinning a recoil lug is a single shear application so it would take 2 pins to achieve the 1400 lb strength. Something as basic as JB-weld has a strength of 4000 psi. It would only tale 1/3 square inch of bonded surface to match the strength of 2 pins, in theory. It is just something I am considering trying. I thought It might be interesting to have a .260 & .308 switch barrel. I have also considered splitting the difference and just re-barreling to 7mm-08 Ackley improved. I already have the reamer.

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Have a look at this. It seems to work much like the AI system and tightening against a solid shoulder for speed and repeatability. I wonder if it could be modified to work with a Tikka action?

 

https://westtexordnance.com/switchlug/

 

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2017/01/tyler-kee/west-texas-ordnance-switchlug-2017-shot-show/

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Very interesting. If I understand the design correctly the barrel would only need to be hand tight. The clamping lug keeps it from rotating loose. You can change barrels with a torx wrench and your hands. They do pin it to the receiver which is something I am trying to avoid. I have never studied a Tika action closely but it is hard to imagine a feature that would prevent installation of this system.

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