Elk archery setup

[UggRedBilly]

Hey guys! If you all remember I was running an arrow setup that weighed 369 grains! I was told it was bare minimum for elk before my hunt in november. So I dont wanna keep using that setup in the years to come. I am drawing 65 pounds with ease now too (Max Poundage). I know I clearly need to get a heavier head to I will be switching to a 125 grain broadhead now. I also only have a 24 inch draw which takes away a lot of weight and speed. So what should I look into for a new arrow set up? 

I usually end up getting the cheaper arrows at Spotsmens with a 340 spine for 40$. Would a wrap help a lot? Do they come off to easily? Is there a specific type of arrow for shorter draw lengths out there? Thank you!

[HuntHarder]

Don't overthink it.... many, many elk died before all this FOC, 500 grain arrow talk became cool.  Dont hit the shoulder and you are golden.  Hit the shoulder, you better be close and have some serious KE.  

[Delw]

15 minutes ago, HuntHarder said:

Don't overthink it.... many, many elk died before all this FOC, 500 grain arrow talk became cool.  Dont hit the shoulder and you are golden.  Hit the shoulder, you better be close and have some serious KE.  

Finally someone with common sense

[Delw]

18 hours ago, UggRedBilly said:

 Is there a specific type of arrow for shorter draw lengths out there? Thank you!

Crossbow Bolts

your fine just go get arrows and broadheads that shoot good for you and you bow.

[UggRedBilly]

37 minutes ago, HuntHarder said:

Don't overthink it.... many, many elk died before all this FOC, 500 grain arrow talk became cool.  Dont hit the shoulder and you are golden.  Hit the shoulder, you better be close and have some serious KE.  

Sounds great! Thank you!

[Ed67]

Try Magnus Stingers

[NOTAGS]

16 hours ago, HuntHarder said:

Don't overthink it.... many, many elk died before all this FOC, 500 grain arrow talk became cool.  Dont hit the shoulder and you are golden.  Hit the shoulder, you better be close and have some serious KE.  

True words......I had an arrow bounce off an elk shoulder and drop to the ground at 20 yd.s , shooting 72 lbs.s and KE of 65 lbs ish.  Anyone close by would have seen a grown man cry...

 

 

 

[MULEPACKHUNTER]

If you want to do some tweaking on your arrows let me know. I have a bunch of arrows and components. Sounds like your not confident with them now so I would suggest getting them where you want them. 
I have cronograph and paper to shoot. 
my preference is heavy arrow and normal 100 grn head. I can make a few test arrows 

[jdown]

Just one thought to add to all the good advice above is that since you are shooting such a relatively short arrow (assuming 25-26" - shorter arrows are stiffer) you can actually get by with a heavier spine.  AT 65lbs, you could shoot 400 spine and pick up a little Ke as well perhaps. I doubt you will notice it, but if you are experimenting a 400 with a 100gr fixed (The fixed head not only doesn't give you the loss of energy that opener does, but it is also is longer which even that can point to a stiffer spline.  If it was me, assuming you are happy with the shooting performance/accuracy (most important), I would chrono the 400 with 100 and the 340 with both 100 and 125 and then see what gives you your best Ke.    

[PowellSixO]

I will be the bad guy I guess, and go against the grain. I think a heavier arrow is important. Obviously any arrow with a sharp tip can kill an elk. But after lost elk of my own, I’d say preparing for the less favorable shots/hits is important. We want everything to be perfect, but as we all know it never is. One thing I learned the hard way, is that it is very very hard to track a bull down without a blood trail. So the bigger the hole, and the more holes you have in an elk the better. Rather than rant and rave, I’ll cut to point. A good broadhead, on a heavy arrow. A good broadhead that will cut, and not break is important. A heavy arrow will help pass the broadhead through the elk. If you encounter bone, you want the arrow to keep penetrating. If you don’t encounter bone, the arrow will make two holes instead of one, because it will likely come out the other side. There is a reason people advocate for heavier arrow setups for elk. They’re big critters, with big bones, that have an extremely strong will to survive. Now I think you can go too heavy. I don’t think you need a 1000 grain arrow setup. I tend to think the 500 grain arrow setup is a good happy medium between light and fast, and heavy and slow. Just my two cents.

[azhuntnut]

I have shot several elk using a 370 grain arrow and Magnus stinger broad heads. All of them were complete pass through, including a shot at 70 yards that hit ribs on both sides. I cut on contact broad head makes a huge difference in penetration. This year I did make some changes that have improved my arrow accuracy and penetration. I added 100 grains to the inside front of the arrow, plus nock tuned. I also added Zinger 3D printed fletchings. I am still shooting Magnus broad heads, but now I use their 100 grain Black Hornets. David

[UggRedBilly]

10 hours ago, NOTAGS said:

True words......I had an arrow bounce off an elk shoulder and drop to the ground at 20 yd.s , shooting 72 lbs.s and KE of 65 lbs ish.  Anyone close by would have seen a grown man cry...

 

 

 

Geez that just sounds like a roller coaster of emotions! That's crazy!

[UggRedBilly]

2 hours ago, PowellSixO said:

I will be the bad guy I guess, and go against the grain. I think a heavier arrow is important. Obviously any arrow with a sharp tip can kill an elk. But after lost elk of my own, I’d say preparing for the less favorable shots/hits is important. We want everything to be perfect, but as we all know it never is. One thing I learned the hard way, is that it is very very hard to track a bull down without a blood trail. So the bigger the hole, and the more holes you have in an elk the better. Rather than rant and rave, I’ll cut to point. A good broadhead, on a heavy arrow. A good broadhead that will cut, and not break is important. A heavy arrow will help pass the broadhead through the elk. If you encounter bone, you want the arrow to keep penetrating. If you don’t encounter bone, the arrow will make two holes instead of one, because it will likely come out the other side. There is a reason people advocate for heavier arrow setups for elk. They’re big critters, with big bones, that have an extremely strong will to survive. Now I think you can go too heavy. I don’t think you need a 1000 grain arrow setup. I tend to think the 500 grain arrow setup is a good happy medium between light and fast, and heavy and slow. Just my two cents.

Yeah. I figure due to mainly my draw length I was very limited on speed and one day someone told me if you cant shoot fast shoot heavy. But that was 1 week before my hunt so I didnt wanna change everything I worked on last minute. But now I have till september till CO OTC elk

[Green Bullet]

just use full metal jackets and schwackers or rage and you're golden.   the key from my experience is using a broached that'll open the animal up for a good blood trail. I went with the fixed broad heads for elk because they are so tough idea but I quickly learned even with a great shot sometimes you get shitty blood and it makes it very hard tracking.  

[trphyhntr]

You just shoot them in a good spot. Don’t worry about anything else