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For the guys that anneal, did you spend the money on a machine or is everyone using the deep socket/drill/torch method?  Been looking at the annealeez, but not sure if its worth the money. 

That or is there anyone locally that anneals on a price per round?

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I made an induction annealer for appx $200. Works great and much more consistent than a flame.

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, JSR said:

I made an induction annealer for appx $200. Works great and much more consistent than a flame.

 

 

 

I was just watching that video yesterday after doing a web search.  Looks like an easy make.

After getting a few split necks, I started doing the propane torch and socket method with Templaq, like Lance. 

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1 hour ago, lancetkenyon said:

MAP gas, torch, deep socket, cordless drill here.  I do probably 9-11k a year.  

 

Do you use any temp indicator? Or do have you done it enough where you just have a "feel" for when its done?

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I've never seen the deep socket method. I have some brass I need annealed, might give it a try. 

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1 hour ago, Big Tub said:

Why is it that the neck should be annealed and how often?

After so many resizings the brass at the neck starts to get weak, annealing helps strengthen the brass so it last longer. I think most guys start annealing around 5 or 6 reloads.

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6 hours ago, zackcarp said:

After so many resizings the brass at the neck starts to get weak, annealing helps strengthen the brass so it last longer. I think most guys start annealing around 5 or 6 reloads.

I think I remember hearing Lance he anneals everytime.

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6 hours ago, zackcarp said:

After so many resizings the brass at the neck starts to get weak, annealing helps strengthen the brass so it last longer. I think most guys start annealing around 5 or 6 reloads.

Actually, it is kind of the opposite.  Brass "work hardens" from firing and sizing.  Which causes "springback", neck cracking/splitting, inconsistent sizing, etc.  Annealing softens it, meaning consistent sizing and neck tension.  I anneal every single time I size/load.  I want my brass the same hardness each time I load it.  Not a little harder, then a little harder, then a little harder, then annealing it back to soft.  This works for for some guys, but I want consistency.  I do not know if it helps that much, but even .05" better accuracy helps.  So does low ES/SD from a consistent tension.  

Steel is tempered (hardened), by being heated and quickly cooled.  

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Tempering is actually a toughening process that may bring down the strength/hardness after transformation quenching of higher carbon steels but it greatly increases toughness/ductility.  Otherwise, the steel can be extremely brittle.  

Good points on the brass.  So with annealing the brass cases each time, do you have to trim each time?

 

 

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1 hour ago, Big Tub said:

Tempering is actually a toughening process that may bring down the strength/hardness after transformation quenching of higher carbon steels but it greatly increases toughness/ductility.  Otherwise, the steel can be extremely brittle.  

Good points on the brass.  So with annealing the brass cases each time, do you have to trim each time?

 

 

I only trim when I get within .002" of max case length.  Then trim to minimum.  Depending on case design, could be every third firing or every sixth.

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WTF you guys talking about lol...  Who’s anneals?

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