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Loner

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Posts posted by Loner


  1. The Kaibabs would be my first recommendation. They are so close to the SLC's that paying 1k more would be silly in my opinion. If these don't fit your face I would def look into the Viper HDs. They are no Kaibabs but they would be the next best thing. Most people say the SLCs don't fit their face and most opt for the Kaibabs due to this. Was there anything obstructing the henge?

    Thanks for your $.02. The henge on the Kiababs does not get close enough together to get a complete view. The SLC's fit good and they would be my first choice, just not going to be able to spring for them anytime soon. My main concern on the Vipers is the focus factor and eye fatigue. I have heard of guys having these issues in the past. Also The Vipers have "HD" glass as do the Kiababs, so whats the big difference between the Vipers and the Kiababs components that makes the kiababs twice the cost?

     

     

    The Kaibabs have a bigger objective then the Vipers. This will gather more light and the eye relief on the Kaibabs is better. The "HD" component is an extra lens in the bino to correct chromatic aberration. Besides the bigger objective the biggest difference and most important is the quality of the glass. The Kaibab's use a better quality glass then the Viper HD.


  2. I think the best sign is fresh diggings at the base of plants or open areas close by with roots underneath. This almost always means you're in the right place. I even glass for these dug up areas then go inspect to see how fresh they are. Funny how barrel cactus look like javelina rumps.


  3. Can I get to the Salt River Canyon Bridge @ US 60 from Cherry Creek. I tried to get through on Sunday from IR 29/ FR 94, but it was raining and sleeting and i chickened out about 3 miles onto the Res. I have a 4x4 crew cab long bed but the road was narrow and it was along way down. (I did have my Res. permit) So if anyone has ever been that way please let me know what you think.

    Thanks,

    Loner


  4. I hunted every weekend of last years Dec. hunt and never saw any sign of rutting, all the bucks but one were alone. That was my first late hunt so I cant compare it to other years. Took a small fork on the last day who was with his mama. Was it a late start for last years rut?? (se unit)

    Loner


  5. Went scouting in 30B Sat & Sun. There are some good camping spots on FR 687 on the west side of the Dragoons. Did lots and lots of glassing and could only come up with one doe. I will be going a few more time before the Dec hunt. Would be happy to trade info with other scouters. Has any one ever hunted down in the Mule Mts? Is access as tough as stated in the rules and regs?

    Loner


  6. Catclaw, I have a buddy that that loves his Steiners 20x are they really horrible? He swears i need them for our upcoming hunt but at $ 1,100 i could use some more opinions. Thanks

     

     

    I would highly suggest staying away from the 20x Steiners. The individual focus becomes a pain. They also did not fit my face well either. I bought a pair of 15x Vortex binos. Love them!

     

     

    Thanks for the info on the Steiner 20x 's. Is a tripod a must for 15x too, or are you able to hold them steady enough for short periods of time? Just wonndering. Thanks, Loner


  7. In this price range, the Fujinon Polaris 16x70 is by FAR the best. Fujinon still makes their marine series (FMT-SX). I used to own a set and used them a lot. I spent a week on a sheep hunt with a guy who had 15x56 SLCs. The Fujinons were right there. They are very big however. You can find them at any of the Brooklyn camera shops for $575-$750.

     

    The 15x60HDs that Fujinon made were terrible- don't even consider them.

     

    The Bruntons have a poor reputation for holding up. I have heard horror story after horror story with both the epochs (very expensive) and the Eternas.

     

    I haven't heard anything bad about the Minox.

     

    The Pentax and Minoltas that I have looked through were horrible. Right up there with the 20x Steiners and Meads.

     

     

    A very good point was brought up in this thread- the fact that these large ROOF prism binoculars will not accommodate the eyes of a very large number of potential users. I have many friends who cannot use my 15x56 SLCs because they are too wide at the narrowest they go. The Leicas are even worse! If you have eyes like this, you will need to find a porro prism design binocular such as the aforementioned Fujinon FMT-SX or the old Zeiss 15x60s or the old Doctor 15x60s. It's unfortunate that people are more concerned with aesthetics than performance. All other things being equal, a porro glass will be sharper, brighter and cheaper than a roof prism design. They have one less prism per side and are far easier to build. They look old fashioned so they don't sell.

     

    There hasn't been a binocular built that can hold a candle to the Nikon Superior Es. Period. I believe they are discontinued now too!

     

    Catclaw, I have a buddy that that loves his Steiners 20x are they really horrible? He swears i need them for our upcoming hunt but at $ 1,100 i could use some more opinions. Thanks


  8. Howdy Loner, welcome to the site! It isn't necessary to have 15X or 20X for glassing distance, but it is necessary to have the binos, regardless of power, on a tripod for distance. I start out glassing with my smaller 8.5x42 binos on a tripod while glassing in any terrain or distance and they work fine for finding movement and shapes far out and detail at closer ranges. The tripod is the key though, that's the only way to pick up the animals movements which is normally what gives the animal away. It's better to have a 15X or higher glass but you will be fine with 10X and typically you can identify with 10X whether it's an animal worth going after, just keep em' on a tripod! Sitting and glassing is by far the best way for me to hunt desert muleys, find the highest vantage point and glass all day. Best of luck to ya, JIM>

     

     

    Coosfan, Thanks for the advice. I will definetly go tripod shopping before my scouting trip this weeked. Thanks again. Loner

     

    Look for Amvona.com on ebay. That's where I get my tripods from time to time. Seriously good tripods and heads for about a 1/15 of the normal cost. Got a killer tripod for $11 then the smoothest head I've ever used for another $15. Can't beat em!!

     

    I got a $30 Nikon from Sportsmans Warehouse. Used it this weekend. Its surprising how much longer you can glass when you shoulders don't get tired from holding up the Binos. Thanks for the info. Loner


  9. Howdy Loner, welcome to the site! It isn't necessary to have 15X or 20X for glassing distance, but it is necessary to have the binos, regardless of power, on a tripod for distance. I start out glassing with my smaller 8.5x42 binos on a tripod while glassing in any terrain or distance and they work fine for finding movement and shapes far out and detail at closer ranges. The tripod is the key though, that's the only way to pick up the animals movements which is normally what gives the animal away. It's better to have a 15X or higher glass but you will be fine with 10X and typically you can identify with 10X whether it's an animal worth going after, just keep em' on a tripod! Sitting and glassing is by far the best way for me to hunt desert muleys, find the highest vantage point and glass all day. Best of luck to ya, JIM>

     

     

    Coosfan, Thanks for the advice. I will definetly go tripod shopping before my scouting trip this weeked. Thanks again. Loner

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