Jump to content

youngbuck

Official Sponsor
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    1,284

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by youngbuck

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Well I went a shot it for the first time today. I shot paper at 100yds. I was able to hold around 1moa. I had one ragged hole goin and 1 or 2 "flyers", still real close to 1" 4 shot group (I didnt measure it with my calipers). I was cleaning the barrel after the every shot, so every shot was a fowler. This is with no load development. I was shooting 89gr H1000 w/ COAL 3.645 (IIRC). The velocity was 2725-2754. I will load up to 91gr, maybe a little more eventually, then play with seating depth. This is short enough to fit in the mag and be around 30 thou off the lands. I ran balistics through Shooter. The Litz tested G7 seemed a little high as my 2 long shots (1k+) were both a couple feet low. I haven't gone through the app yet to check all my variables though. I was shooting far to see how plumb my scope was tracking. Recoil was a non issue. It was less than my dad's 7RM shooting 162s at 3040fps (no break). I didn't shoot my 300rum today to compare it against, but I think the 338LM is slighty less felt recoil. I'll post again when I get everything dialed in. I need to re-level the scope and do some load development. Over all I was very happy. The recoil really surprised me. The gun does weigh just under 15lbs with scope and bipod, but it is still flingin a 300gr bullet @ 2740 fps. I hope to get it over 2800. I'm hoping for 2850, but thats thats pretty fast for a 26" LM. Since the pic I've swapped for aluminum rings and am using a EGW HD 20MOA rail. I also added a lace up cheek pad. It helps getting a good cheek weld, but makes it a pain to clean and a little tough to remove the bolt. I can't use my bore guide when it is on.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Are the scope turrets set up for MOA ?

     

    The turrets are in MOA, at least mine are. I have 2 50mm versions. You can't beat them for the money. They track really well and are a lot easier to "zero" than some expensive scopes, no set screws. They don't have a ton of internal elevation and the eye relief can be a little picky. However, that is comparing them to scopes around 1k plus. You can't get better features without spending a LOT more money.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I finally got a chance to test my new digi scope set up on a live animal. I can video, in HD, things up to a mile, probably, and have them clearly visable. Heat waves are tough on this set up though. I am using a Canon t3i with a t-mount to a Zeizz diascope adapter (1000mm equilevent) on a 85mm Zeiss spotter. There isn't any image stabilization, but I also didn't have to shell out 10's of thousands of dollars on a huge tele photo. The 1.6 crop camera has a digital zoom thats internal (3-10x). This function is unique to the T3i. It works really well with only minimal distortion at 10x zoom. Up to 7x zoom it isn't noticable. 1.6 crop x 1000 adapter x 10x zoom = a 16,000 equivalent. This doe was probably 500 yds away and my rig was at max zoom. I'll need a better head to make this work. You also need good light to make it work. My hope was to video shots at 1k yds+ and be able to see impact and the animal in good detail and clarity. The rig shakes real bad if you have to focus, zoom, or pan, but the video was surprisingly clear for being zoomed so much. Another thing is the focus. I have to manualy focus the spotter. I am looking at a 2.5" viewer trying to focus it. I'll eventually get a heavier head and get better at the focus deal. I may make a balance beam to have a better balance ont he head. It will move the mount on the spotter back to balance the weight of the camera. Any ways, enough blabbin, here is the test video.

     

    For comparison, the bear video on my youtube channel is at 300yds on 32x zoom on a panasonic camcorder.

     

  7. Posted · Report reply

    thanks guys, anymore tips??

     

     

    Haul a pair of insulated coveralls in your pack if you are going to be glassing. The thinsulate wrangler camo pants from VF factory outlet are pretty handy when it gets that cold, inexpensive too. Throw a hand warmer(that actually works) in your bino bag before you head out. That will prevent condensation building up on the glass. If it is real cold, most cameras/camcorders won't work without being warmed up for a while. If your's wont work stick it in your inside coat pocket for a half hour. Make sure your water bottles aren't frozen before you head out all day. It is really frustrating waiting for ice to thaw when you are thirsty.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    It all really depends on the year how cold it will get. I've seen it in the single digits on that hunt and I've also seen it flood with rain. Bring an ice chest to keep water in to keep it from freezing. No ice, just stuff you don't want to freeze.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    On real long hunts, I normally use my "junk coolers" for drinks and food. I keep blocks and fill my Yetis to the brim with crushed ice. I keep those in the shade and only get into them when I refill my other coolers. The ice keeps a lot longer if the cooler is 100% full. The sleeping bag trick helps. I also heard about using wet towels on coolers. The evaporation would help too. Bring your coolers inside the house a couple days before you use them. the night before you pack them up throw a bag of ice in them to chill them off. Drain all that and load them up as full as you can get them. Nothing melts ice faster than throwing it into a hot/warm cooler. The good ice chests are even worse when it comes to this.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    I use a Rino 130, the one with the electronic compass and barometric altimeter, no color screen. I use it to double check my ballistic program. The electronic compass is nice, if you know how to calibrate it. you don't have to be moving for it to work. I'd like to see the new color touch screen rinos.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    After years of drooling over big 338s I finally got one. I have had one built in my head for years, lots of different ways. I wanted a full custom, but that wasn't in the cards. I finally got all the pieces together and put together last night. It is a Savage 110 FCP HS precision chambered in 338 Lapua. It is topped of with an IOR 6-24x56 MOA/MOA. After early antelope/deer/elk, I'll start working on a load. I just got in some Berger tactical hybrid 300gr OTM I'm hoping I can get to shoot.

     

    IMG_0257.jpg

  19. Posted · Report reply

    I definitely use it for my hunting magazine fix. The best part is I have gotten familiar with a lot of the guys on here. I like to see guys I know tag out, especially with the story behind it. The gear reviews here are a lot better than in any hunting magazine or TV show. Nobody is being paid to push their sponsor's product. Some forums promote the cream of the crop gear. The guys here are "bang for your buck" guys, which is my kind of people. Brag on....

  22. Posted · Report reply

    I prefer to fish for smallies, cats, and stripers. For smallies, I've had good luck with grubs on jig heads. Mostly watermelon candy/seed colors. At night, cats can be caught on any catfish bait from the shore. On stripers we usually use frozen anchovies. I've only caught one walleye out of Powell, on a hand poured grub in watermelon candy color. Have fun and good luck!

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Turns out I'll need a EGW HD rail, not a tactical. Fits Savage long action with round back (has one if it is an accu-trigger I'm told). Brand new 20MOA base manf. #41102. I'm going to hold it up to the rifle tomorrow to make sure the spacing is correct (Savage can't tell me what rail will fit their rifle, it is a new model). Never been mounted. I payed 38.99 for it. I'd like to get $35 OBO for it. I don't want to mess with an online return. I can post pics if you need them, but it is brand spanking new. UPS dropped it off today. I'm in Mesa, but drive all over the state most weekends.

×