WampusCat

Its all over now. I'm in for both, but my results are always similar to yours.

Aaannd, the binos are gone.

I just can't resist

I would guess that guy has put more dollars toward the conservation of the african game he chases then any of the fair weather do gooders that are huffing and puffing about this. Doesn't make him ok if he was in on what happened. Possibly the PH's fault when he got hungry chasing a big tip. Couldn't care less either way. Apparently this is also a much larger issue to facebook than the Iran deal.

What are your intents with the rifle? Any available pill from a 300 WinMag will let all of the air out of a Coues Deer. Probably several in a row if you lined them up. For factory loads you may be served best by shooting a few different offerings to see what your rifle likes. I like big heavy for caliber bullets for their consistency in the wind and downrange energy.

Willhunt, great write up and killer rifle! I have been a died in the wool nightforce guy and have been stashing cash for the new SFP "Enhanced" ATACR to put on my build that will be finished when I get home. I am very interested in how you would compare the optical clarity and light gathering ability of your sightrons vs the nightforces in the evening hours? Your writing has thrown me for a loop in my decision for glass. I have had nothing but the best like with NF stuff.

Slick rifle! It's begging for some 75 gr AMAXs or the new 77 gr TMK's. I have a tired old VSSF II in 22-250 that needs a fast twist.

The times have changed for certain. Growing up we just filled the big bowl up once a day with Ol' Roy from WalMart and let the hounds sort it out. Looking back I'm sure it wasn't the best chow for them, but it was what my folks could afford. Couldn't have been too bad cause a couple of those must were still trucking along at 15 yrs old. I think we learned a little bit since those days.

crazy good price on that package! Im too slow again

Wet Okole. I put them on my 2006 Dodge and they were still waterproof and tight fitting when I sold it in 2013. My new truck got the same fitted covers and they fit perfect. They also add a bit of cushion to the seat. You can customize them the way you like.

I'll take the 300 WSM mag. PM sent.

Inter Pupillary Distance (how far between the between the eyes)

Clean your die and get just enough lube on the brass to tell its there. You don't need any lube on the inside for normal loading operations.

Easy for the mind to run away with ideas. Instant karma for no good, dirty thief is a great thing.

Fingers crossed

I'd give you a hand if I was around. Only cost ya a cold beverage.

I don't think this has anything to do with OP's problem but since it was mentioned in the thread I'll give it a shot. If you don't reload this topic really won't effect anything you do. It doesn't matter. For reloaders it's a step in the process where you need to make a decision. (How much to set the shoulder of the case back during resizing) With factory ammo, the belted magnums maintain or control their headspace by way of the belt contacting the inside of the chamber and limiting forward movement of the cartridge. Upon firing that factory spec cartridge, the shoulder area of the brass will expand and fill any void or gap in the chamber (similar to what is known as fire forming brass). This void or gap is very small, usually measured in hundred thousandths of an inch, but depends on the rifle manufacturer that cut the chamber. When you extract that case it will be a little longer (base to shoulder) than it was prior. Some chambers can be much more "generous" than others when it comes to size. When you reload this case you have the opportunity to adjust your sizing die to bump the shoulder back to factory specs (which will work the brass a lot and potentially lead to shorter life of the case) or leave it long, using the form fitted shoulder to headspace along with the belt. Most people will opt to work the brass minimally and just barely bump the shoulder back ensuring smooth chambering. Some will just size the neck and use the shoulder (as well as the belt now) as the headspace datum point. Eventually the shoulder will need a short bump and some trimming of the neck due to brass flow after multiple firings. A good tool for reloaders is a case overall length gage. It will let you accurately tell what is happening here. Both are safe ways to reload, but one will likely be more accurate/reliable in your rifle. Again I don't think this has any merit as a potential problem for the OP. His issue is a problem with poor reloads or something is effecting the lock time of his trigger mechanism. Hope this helped!

For clarification there are a couple things that should be mentioned. 1. A true hang fire is a delay between the moment the firing pin impacts the primer and complete ignition of the powder charge. Usually a problem with the explosive compound in the primer, an obstruction in the flash hole, or faulty powder. You need to decipher if the "hang" you speak of is happening during the sear releasing the firing pin (before impacting the primer) or after the primer has been struck. It should be easy to tell if it is a mechanical (rifle) problem or ammo. When you pull the trigger does the sear immediately release the firing pin and you can hear the click of the pin being driven home? Or is there a delay between the time you pull the trigger where nothing happens and no noise is made before the gun goes off? 2. A 7mm Rem just like the other belted mags, does in fact headspace off the belt with factory ammunition. After the first firing, the shoulder will be blown forward and it is up to you to decide how far you would like to bump the shoulder back with the sizing die when you reload it. 3. Does this only happen with your reloads or is it the same with factory ammo?

I got a pile o 130 Hunting VLDs at home if your new barrel ends up digesting them well. Let me know if you are interested in them. I will likely use the 140s since my 6.54S will have the boiler room to get the velocity I want.

You should be good. I've put together a heap of em in the last few years. The AR platform will really surprise you with a proper torque on a quality free floated barrel and good trigger squeeze there is not much left to affect the accuracy. Your upper is plenty good enough to get the accuracy you're after. The only disadvantage to the design (or any AR) is the mounting of a long heavy barrel can really leverage some stress into the threaded portion of the upper. Good luck to you and post your results. Also checkout the new 6.5 Berger 130gr Hybrid. Fits your application perfectly!

I'm in. Probably the only way I'll get my hands on an ATX anytime soon. Good cause too.

PM sent

Pix, it's no different then the lenses you use to take those great pictures. The higher end stuff will always produce a better image. In this case the manufacturer (Swaro) will take care of you down the road whether you just want a thorough cleaning or a complete rebuild. They really are an investment. I have 12s and its really hard to compare against anything else after you spend a day glassing with them. I did the vortex thing years ago and they look great until you put them next to Swaros up on a ridge. Sure you can spot game with lower end stuff but there is no contest about quality glass revealing more of what the hills are hiding. Mostly just be honest with yourself about what you are after and what it's worth to you.

FFP's only advantage is the ability of the reticle sub tensions to accurately measure the target. Whether for ranging or bullet drop compensation. Be honest with yourself... 1. Do you often accurately range your target using only your scope reticle and your perceived knowledge of target size? 2. Do you regularly take shots requiring you to "hold over", but at a lesser magnification than higher magnification SFP reticles are calibrated at? (If you are holding over it is likely the target is far away and you would be better served "zooming" the scope to the appropriate setting) If you answered no to these questions then the extra money you pay for FFP will only make you look cool at the range.

Great looking pup and a cool name.