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WampusCat

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Posts posted by WampusCat


  1. Had a spare minute and thought I'd throw a couple more pics up for comparison.

     

    Here is are the Low, High, and Swaro standard (L to R) for comparison. Note the Tall is exactly 1" taller in size and by how much it raises the binos.

     

    post-11266-0-83314900-1502628107_thumb.jpg

     

    This is what I was talking about with the panhead not allowing the binos to adjust to their narrow most setting with the low adapter. The narrowest setting allows me to glass fine still but the binos are canted due to contact with the winged thumb screws. This is really what bothered me a lot requiring a crook in the neck and became uncomfortable after long sessions. If your eyes aren't set as narrow as mine this may be a non issue for you.

     

    post-11266-0-44297900-1502628124_thumb.jpg

     

    Notice contact with thumb screws.

     

    post-11266-0-55505100-1502628146_thumb.jpg

     

    Here is the tall.

     

    post-11266-0-33787900-1502628158_thumb.jpg

     

    Again, I use them both but if I had my choice I would like to carry the adapter mounted to the bino inside my pouch. This worked well for my 12x and I came to prefer it. Still great gear though and I haven't found anything better.


  2. Both good choices for different reasons.

     

    The low will let you leave it mounted and still slide it into bino packs like Alaskan Guide Creations. It doesn't let you adjust the interpupillary distance to its most narrow position when used with an outdoorsman panhead not a show stopper but I notice it.

     

    The high works perfect with the 15s. Plus side is its extra height can help if you need just a bit more from a compact tripod. Downside is it doesn't fit in bino packs while still attached to the binos.

    • Like 1

  3. I have shot Coues, Muley, and Eastern Whitetail and been a part of even more hunts with Bergers at distance and all did their job perfectly but one .30 cal 210 gr HVLD. Too many variables to nail down the cause. The other 15 or so from 6mm through .30 cal all exited with a hole many times the entrance. My rifle got passed around culling WT does in KS with 215gr Hybrids and everyone exited with 1" hole. Repeatable enough for me to be confident in the field.

     

    With some of the thinner jacketed long range type projectiles (AMAX included) you are more likely to see total projectile fragmentation at close range and not get an exit. I have watched way more exits out at distance where the bullet isnt explosively fragmenting inside the boiler room.

     

    It is also possible to clean a plugged tip with a piece or wire or a small pick. I've also seen where a guy used a tiny drill bit. I inspect every round I take to the field. If nothing else it gives piece of mind.

    • Like 1

  4. I'm with Casey. I love redundancy in my gear until the point where I break one piece and it takes away the ability to do several things. In this case bust a walking stick and then you can't glass from a tripod. I like the idea though.


  5. I know that feeling! You won't regret it. Strange thing I noticed after using Kifaru is that my feet hurt. Or at least I noticed it on the super long, super heavy trips in my feet more. Kind of funny, I think it is because the normal shoulder / upper back pain I associated with these long hauls were no longer an issue. The only thing I had to whine about was my feet lol.

     

    Snap some pics when you get that thing loaded up and dirty.

    • Like 2

  6. Was also once in the "those things are stupid" camp. Tried them once with a heavy pack and wondered how I got along without them. I picked up a set of the Leki corklites a while back on sale from backcountry.com or sierratradingpost I can't remember. I have used them all over and couldn't be happier. While not pure cork (mix of rubber and cork) the handles are easy to grip even when I'm dripping sweat on them.


  7. The 6.5 RSAUM (or GAP 4S) will still have shorter barrel life than a .260 Rem/6.5 CM type velocity cartridge. Speed=wear.

    That may be true if the SAUM is hot rodded and the 260 is ran at factory pressures. You and I both know people trying to squeeze every fps possible out of those 260 size cases are at the limit of pressure and chewing up barrels faster than they need to. Even the 47L guys are leaning on them pretty hard and developing crazy pressures before the capability just runs out well below 3,000 fps.

     

    That SAUM was specifically brought into the light in the last few years because it hits that 3100 fps mark at mediocre pressures without leaning on it. You mentioned speed=wear but left out the pressure and heat that erodes throats and kills barrels. Doesnt need to be debated as it's already been proven. 2013 Sniper Hide Cup was won with a SAUM that ended the comp with 4000ish rounds through it. I have factory brass with 8 reloads and still going strong with tight primer pockets. A good friend has more than 10 reloads on a small batch of the same brass and still going.

     

    It's not the be all, end all but it does exactly what it was developed to do (130-140s @3100-3200fps) and it does it at lower pressures than the smaller cased offerings stuffed full of 4350.

     

    Good luck to the OP choosing a chambering. If you have any specific questions about the 4S I'd be happy to lend my experience with it after owning creeds.


  8. Not on your list but the 6.5 SAUM (GAP 4S) has taken over as my do everything rifle. 140s busting 3100 with ease but my favorite is a 130 hybrid at 3200 and change with zero pressure signs from a 24" barrel. JLk has a 135 made at the request of the GAP crew and it looks like the perfect pill for this case. Proven barrel life if you don't try to hot road it. I can't verify with my equipment other than case inspection but it's supposed run at relatively low pressures compared to other 6.5s chasing the same fps numbers. Recoil is extremely manageable and excellent factory brass available. Fits in a short action but you'll need a magnum bolt face.

     

    I could go on for days about how happy I am with this chamber. Be worth a look if you are after a serious 6.5 with plenty of mileage in a barrel.


  9. Remember these safes are for protecting from fires and keeping items away from children, less responsible people in your house, and the odd smash and grab burglar who happens across your safe when in fact, he came for the jewelry and XBOX. Don't get caught up in anti pry whizz bangs and big chrome locking bolts when the wall thickness is less than 1/8th inch.

     

    Sure, a few thousand dollars worth will keep two goons with crowbars at bay for a long time, but someone who has came specifically for your guns/safe content will only need a minute or two with an cordless angle grinder/cutoff wheel (even seen portable torch kits used) to render your big money safe worthless. The longest part of the operation would be the multiple trips, carrying all your stuff out.

     

    Please don't take me as "that guy", I too own a "premium" safe from a big box store. Just being real about the capabilities of these containers. I think the best preventive in the case of the experienced bad guys is not being flashy in your neighborhood/social media/internet about what you keep in your house. There is definitely something to be said for the fire protection merits too.

     

    To the OP, I would recommend a dial lock (S&G if you can find one) for reliability and decide on whats more important for you right now. Size/capacity vs fire protection (duration). You have your budget decided and should look for the best combo of fire protection vs size to suit your requirements. At that budget I would also be looking for sales at the big names already mentioned. CostCo, Sam's, Lowe's, Home Depot, Sportsman's, Bass Pro, Cabela's, Tractor Supply and you may be able to talk them down a bit more if you get a floor model that has been handled.

    • Like 3

  10. Those ladders are great at highlighting nodes and the winners get even more clear the farther out the test can be shot.

     

    Something else worth mentioning on a new build. I like to revisit load development after the first 1-200 rounds through a new barrel. They will normally "shoot in" and pick up some more fps than during initial load development. This can result in a slight change of chamber pressure and has the potential to change barrel harmonics. Sometimes there isn't enough change to worry about as far as group size and sometimes a tiny tweak to the recipe will really tighten things up again. Just food for thought if you are trying to squeeze the most out of your rifles capability when you get to that point.

    • Like 2
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