mfernaz

Nevermind, they are sold.

Not sure do you want me to message the person for you?

Great job! Nice buck.

1 shot, clean x 5 2 shots, clean x5 Based on my mentor, no barrel is perfect, this method helps smooth out any tooling imperfections. Cleaning out all the carbon, powder, and copper fouling resurfaces the bare bore to help smooth. Again I'm no expert and I'm learning as I go. The sequence above is his own method, we didn't bring a bore scope to track progress after each shot. "Sometimes it takes 8 rounds other times it takes all 15 or more." Witches brew to remove carbon, moly, and whatever else is in the bore(abrasive cleaner). Then bore techs copper remover(chemical cleaner). Shoot, then clean; witches brew(30 strokes nylon or copper brush), followed by dry patches then alcohol patches (2-4), dry patches, then bore tech 3-4 wet patches, let stand for 15 minutes then run a wet bore tech patch every 15 minutes until copper removed.

Good luck! Going to help out a junior camp in North 21 next weekend.

Well I'd consider myself and expert at cleaning rifles now. This was the first time I've "broken in" a barrel, long process. 17 rounds, lots of patches, and hours later. Shoot, then clean, shoot, clean, shoot...... Clean Here is my 5 shot group at 100 yards I'm no expert shooter by any means, but I wasn't to happy with the factory ammo I was shooting, even though it shot a .6" group, without the flyer would have been .4." I just keep seeing Fred's target with his 6.5 in my head that measured 1/8." But back to the ammo, had very inconsistent velocities with a 100 FPS spread, but averaged 2700 FPS. It'll work for hunting season but can't wait to get load development started.

So it came apart!!! Trimmed up the bedding, and torqued down the rifle action. Lapped and bedded scope rings. Scope leveled and torqued As you can see i have two boxes of Hornady Precision Hunter 143 Grain ELD-X for break in, I won't have enough time for load development. Going to shoot tomorrow will post some bullet holes then.

Wish you would have posted this a week ago...

My bad, I misunderstood your question before. Provides 100% contact between the action and the bedding block/stock, which coincides with what 300RUM stated.

^^^ yes, and this is the compound Fred recommended.

Couldn't wait until next week, snuck out while the kids were in school, got the bedding done. Preparing stock Taping off lug, Fred's an artist with masking tape, he had me remove his job and I had to do it myself. Prepared barreled action Apply compound to barreled action Apply compound to stock Now just letting it cure Hopefully it comes apart tomorrow. Next week, lapping and bedding rings, and mount scope. Waiting for my dies to come in, have Lapua brass, IMR 4831, 143 grain ELD-X waiting to be put together.

Big day today, we torqued the barrel to the action,and put the stock underneath for show Got home and put the rail on Bolt assembled Put together for some photos Will be bedding the stock next week, have some nicks and dings to fix on the stock and she'll be shooting in a week or so.

...

Glendale AZ, near Cabelas.

Today did some cerekoting. I've never used a spray gun so was a little intimidating at first, but Fred said cerekote is very forgiving, so I dove right in. Acetone bath then gas off in oven for 30 minutes Didn't get any action photos, but here's the finished product Tomorrow morning going to put the barrel to the action and prepare for bedding.

Threaded muzzle brake today, and fixed my double/light hit M. Forgot to take a picture to show how it looked. Dikum after barrel indexed Turning down to .625" Turned down, and relief cut made Dikum again and first pass Threading finished Brake fits nice and tight, ready to turn down to match barrel Turning down Sand blasted. Next week, a long day of baking and cerekoting barrels and parts.

That ain't a bad price^^^

Almost done with my 6.5 Creedmoor, and trying to decide on what kind of brass. Nosler, Lapua, and Hornady would be my top choices, any recomedations and why you use what you use would be great. Thanks in advance for everyone's help.

I also saw that, does that affect the way the powder burns from using a smaller ignition source? Should my powder choice vary based on that? I was planning on using IMR 4831, it's what I have on hand. That will be my next question. I'll probably go with nosler just wanted to see what you guys like using.

Yeah I read that the are weight sorted within a half grain, wondered if my other two options did the same. Can't really find anything on the internet with an exact answer. I would think especially with the price of Lapua they would also.

Inletting and barrel channel complete, starting to look like something now, also stamped the barrel with"6.5 Creedmoor," I've done practice on blanks but kind of did a light hit on the M, then tried to get it in the same spot, which Fred told me not too, should have listened. He also said what makes a good gun Smith is fixing your mistakes, so we'll see what next week brings. So besides fixing my mistake, next week is threading for muzzle brake and then cerekote prep. Nothing fancy with this one, just plain ol'black.

Nice.

Chambered and polished with 400 grit Go, and No GO gauge check Hand tightened for photo, barreled action complete. Next week, inleting stock for oversized recoil lug and opening up barrel channel, threading for vais brake, and contouring barrel to match brake.

Yeah he's a good dude, can't wait to get the rest if it together! More to follow.

So this all started back in January, but in previous years I've been going to this Gunsmith(Fred), and have had him do some work on my rifles and other miscellaneous things. Each time I went to Fred for something I always told him Gunsmithing was something I wanted to do and bugged him about letting me watch him do builds, bed stocks, thread muzzle brakes, or whatever. So the time came and we made an agreement, I would work for him and do projects of my own as they came along. So this is my First build all done by my own two hands but with Fred's guidance and of course his equipment, can't thank him enough for his time to show me the ropes. So here is my parts list and where I'm at so far. Stiller TAC 30 Action 20 MOA Rail Mcgowen Precision Stainless Fluted Barrel 6.5 Creedmoor 1 in 8 twist #6 Contour Oversized Tapered SS lug Vais SS Brake HS Precision Stock HS Precision Bottom Metal Vortex Precision Match Rings Vortex HS-T 6-24x50 Indexing bore Turning down to thread major diameter Threading It Fits!!! Chambering