GreyFox

MIne did not have the aluminum blocks, the center (non-centered, wallowed out elongated way too large diameter hole) was the issue, that was my experience, not saying all are like that, just be aware of it, Space forward of the lug...... hmmmmm...... sounds like room for the action to move (Newton's third law action - reaction) Glassing, one way to leearn, do it, on your own gun, then if you mess it up, at least it's yours and not a paying customers!!! I use brownells accuglas and swear by it, Do Not be stingy with release agent. go slow and neat....

Is there a bad consequence to sanding it down anyway, to float the barrel? A floated barrel is a good thing...right? Yes and No, depends (How's that for an answer!!) Remington piller beds; that's what those bumps are, cheaper way to piller bed it, Shoot it for accuracy, also, take a screwdriver or torx or allen (whatever is on the gun) and try slightly adjusting the tension on the action, Sometimes just a tweak on the recoil or trigger guard will change POI and tighten or spread groups. Free floating is typically better BUT if the stock is flimsy at the forend and you rest it on a rock you've just created a pressure point you did not have during sighting in. I've had bad luck with B&C stocks too much play at recoil to the point of shearing a bolt after 3 shots, LITERALLY I threw the stock in the trash, then took it out and stuck it in a corner. When I started 'smithing I needed experience glass bedding so I did, WHAT A DIFFERENCE, it's now on my go to deer rifle (SAKO 243). Yours seems to fit better than mine, but still check the spacing around the recoil lug and bolt or be prepared to cuss and visit a smith to have the recoil bolt removed - not an easy or cheap task. Mine was off center and about twice too large but I didn't notice it. What is a recoil bolt? Is it specific to Sako? Recoil Bolt on the recoil lug, the forward action screw.

Is there a bad consequence to sanding it down anyway, to float the barrel? A floated barrel is a good thing...right? Yes and No, depends (How's that for an answer!!) Remington piller beds; that's what those bumps are, cheaper way to piller bed it, Shoot it for accuracy, also, take a screwdriver or torx or allen (whatever is on the gun) and try slightly adjusting the tension on the action, Sometimes just a tweak on the recoil or trigger guard will change POI and tighten or spread groups. Free floating is typically better BUT if the stock is flimsy at the forend and you rest it on a rock you've just created a pressure point you did not have during sighting in. I've had bad luck with B&C stocks too much play at recoil to the point of shearing a bolt after 3 shots, LITERALLY I threw the stock in the trash, then took it out and stuck it in a corner. When I started 'smithing I needed experience glass bedding so I did, WHAT A DIFFERENCE, it's now on my go to deer rifle (SAKO 243). Yours seems to fit better than mine, but still check the spacing around the recoil lug and bolt or be prepared to cuss and visit a smith to have the recoil bolt removed - not an easy or cheap task. Mine was off center and about twice too large but I didn't notice it.

I am not in Arizona - I live in Georgia, so please forgive my ignorance: What lake is that?

Man, that's some slow mail.....

I received mine yesterday.

Here's another trick - space blanket. Put it under your bag on top of mattress, like sleeping on top of an electric blanket BUT your bag will be damp from condensation, Air it out int he morning. I use a heavy duty one I got years ago from Army Aircraft Survival Kit....

My advice is to try different brass (from experience). I've had my best groups with Remington. I know you said Norma brass but I've personally seen groups go stupid with different brands of brass. Also, without having bullets in front of me, check the length of the BULLET, it's really not the weight of the bullet, it's the length. For instance, if you shot a Nosler partition then a Barnes solid copper, your groups would (typically) open up like in the photos. Just my opinion,

Common, try cycling a loaded round but don't shoot it, see if there's indication of denting. Feed ramp looks like it could be polished out slightly OR the spring in the mag isn't raising the nose enough. Any feeding issues? On an AR, typically the cases are dented during extraction because spring pressure forces the brass (HOT) in the the side of the locking lugs. Sometime a lighter extraction spring will correct that but not always. Definitely not something to do yourself, take it to a 'smith.

Glad it all worked out for you!

Why not, Democrats been voting that way for many elections........ No Offense, Bill, I;ve never met you nor have any idea who you are, Congratulations... Enjoy your hunt!

How much are you looking for?

Tikka 300 mag, you'll probably start looking(after a few shots)for a muzzle brake - great gun, (my son has 2.) but light guns kick - Newton's 3rd law. Look at the Vais muzzle brake - best on the market for my $$$. Scope, Probably don't need or want a 50mm, to clear the barrel requires the scope to be mounted too high so you'll need a cheek pad to raise your head up which increases weight and adds bulk. I'd certainly try a 40mm before I went through all that trouble - just my opinion. Tikka - plastic stock? If so, go to the local hardware store and get a can of spray foam insulation: take off the recoil pad and fill it about half way with foam - it expands - thus half should be plenty. Tikka have hollow stocks, and they are noisy, the foam deadens the noise and helps during recoil.

Yes, I've read it several times, and I took the oath to protect and defend. Visiting Philadelphia and standing in Carpenter's Hall and realizing what our Founding risked sends chills up my spine still.

I sleep in a bathing suit or cotton boxers, not nude, because it protects the bag from your stink. In the morning, turn the bag inside out and let it air. If it's REAL cold, I'll sleep in a base layer. I'm a pretty warm sleeper. As for nude and military, if your clothes are wet from sweat or rain, wearing them in the bag is a huge mistake. Typically the less clothes on your body the better. What do you sleep in at home? that's probably what you should sleep in while camping.

Beautiful, and unfortunately (or fortunately) I have other plans, but man: Great Rifle, great price! Good luck with the sale, If you have other SAKOS wait till August to post them, I'll be back by then,,

The gun was purchased from them. Changes the scenario completely, If you purchased the gun there then there shouldn't be a charge for a background check. When someone orders a gun on line or has a gun shipped in, you're paying for the employees time to sit on the phone (sometimes for extended periods) and filling out the forms, and recording the firearm in and out.

Pay for the weapon before the background check, if the check is DENIED, money is returned. All too often the owner/salesman sits on the phone during peak times and finally gets approval and the buyer backs out or it's delayed and the guy never shows up. That means the gun is in the safe with his name on it, not on the rack where another customer could buy it. It's worse for a smaller shop which has such a high percentage of capital invested on the wall. As far as the law, well, there are some ATF agents who will say what's gospel but is totally incorrect. I like the ATF Agents, they are a bunch of great guys doing a job, but they are not legal experts. On the form is the background check THEN the info on the weapon transfer (make model caliber S/N). I had a guy tell me that I need a manufacturer's license to blue or re-blue guns, I called him on it.. He called me back a few days later to say I was correct and he was misinformed. Takes a big man to do that.

PM sent

WAY off topic, BUT UPS and FEDEX you have to ship handguns overnight express. Shipping to your friend absolutely has to go through FFL. Mailing handguns - FFL to FFL. Benelli is charging for parts? What do they care who the original owner is? That's totally different to me, usually they ship free to the owner, for repair, most of my customers (hence they're CUSTOMERS) pay me a nominal fee to ship and receive.

Honestly, No, I prefer RCBS - that's what I learned on and customer service is great.

Yeah, the USPS regs are NOT the same as Federal regs, You can ship a long gun US MAil, for repair and it can be shipped back to you, no FFL required. To ship a handgun USPS, it has to go FFL to FFL. UPS, you have to declare the firearm but no other documentation required. If they provide a shipping label, it'll state which carrier to use, Benelli has excellent customer service. I had a customer's gun, called to get parts which they would not ship to me, BUT they'd fix it for free or ship the parts to the owner. Seems that gunsmiths were getting parts for free from them then charging the customers for parts, so Benelli stopped that practice.

Predator, Not UPS policy that I'm aware of, empty brass. They always say not to ship any ammo. FWIW, if you happen to ship ammo UPS or any other way, it's got to have the OMD or ORD or whatever that stupid label is....

Georgia, but to ship LEGALLY you have to declare hazmat and it's like $25 per shipment, no matter 1 pound of 100.

Yeah Knothead, that's why I go to Africa or South America to hunt in the summer - it's winter there! NZ is just out of my price ability now, BUT, I am taking a week in November (assuming I draw the tag...) for a deer hunt in Arizona. I've got LOTS of sick time and we get Veteran's Day off.....