PowellSixO

I was recently talking to a guy that tests rifles and scopes, and he sold me on tikka. Of the thousands of rifles he gets and shoots, of the basic factory rifles, he has more tikkas that shoot moa and sub moa than any other manufacture. This same guy has shot over 300,000 rounds in the last 5 years of testing and competing. I believe my next factory rifle will be a tikka.

LOTS of 40 acre homesteads out there, which make it hard to navigate the unit. Not all of the residents are very nice either. Most are weirdos that have retired out there to be left alone. The deer are hard to find. Once you find one it can be a big one. But it can take 3-4 days to find a single deer. It's a tough hunt for sure. The locals have the best odds, and will fill most of the tags. If you haven't started looking, you better start now. I'd start by finding water sources, and looking for tracks at them. If you find a water source with tracks, focus a weekend around that spot glassing all day long. To fill multiple tags on this hunt is going to take hard work, and a lot of luck.

Thanks for the responses everyone. I ended up getting 3 quotes, which included pressure washing, calking, priming, and painting the entire exterior. They were fro 3500, 3500, and 4000. A little bit more than I was expecting, but not by much. I'm going to go with the company that has the best reviews, and hope for the best. I'd go looking for more deer, but I blew my bow up this weekend. I went to draw back, and my release let loose after an inch of pulling. It shot my arrow in the dirt. I thought to myself that's weird, I must not have set my release. So like a dummy, I tried pulling it back without an arrow, and it let loose again on me. But this time, it decided to do it at 3/4 draw. POW!!!!! It's now time for a new bow.

It's not horrible, but yes some of it is chalky on the south facing walls. I'm sure some prep work will be needed.

Thanks. I'm hoping that's about what it costs to do mine. I'm thinking somewhere between 2500-3000 for a good quality job.

Hard to beat the 95 berger classic, with h4350. I had several promising groups working that load up. I think it would be an easy one for you to work up, this close to deer season. My family has killed a few mule deer with that combo.

I like walmart camo for down south. The denim type material the pants are made of, go through the cat claw a lot better than lite expensive camo. Lol. I tried wearing my fancy camo the first few days, and it sucked. My expensive camo and I both were torn up after those first few days. Went to good old walmart camo, and won't look back. But carhart would be a great call too. I don't think a camo pattern is near as important as people give it credit. Maybe more important than anything, can be a good pair of gators to keep the fox tails and junk out of your boots and socks.

Looking good. I like the numbers associated with 65 grains, and 68 grains. Itty bitty groups wouldn't be my main concern right now. I'd focus on finding a low es and sd. The tight groups will come later when you play with seating depths I'd bet.

I did take a velocity reading for every charge. My main purpose was to see what charges were needed to get to a desired velocity and where pressure became a potential issue. There were a couple of flat spots in the velocity curve, so I will see how they compare to the upcoming OCW test for nodes and groups. Good deal. So far, I've been able to find great groups inside of those flat spots. Another thing I get is much more consistent ES between shots, which gives me less vertical stringing at longer distances. Good luck with your testing. Let us know how it goes.

Did you take velocity readings on every shot when working up to your max? If so, maybe look into the Satterlee method. It's worked great on my last 2 rifles. It's not full proof, and you must be very consistent with your reloading method for it to work. But it is a good tool to collaborate what your OCW test shows.

Lots of hate for HVAC guys, from guys sitting in air conditioned rooms. Lol. Yes some guys are gonna do you wrong, but it isn't limited to the HVAC trade. Mechanics, electricians, doctors, lawyers, plumbers, insurance, any other trades are guilty of it too. A lot of problems come from uneducated techs, air conditioning manufacturers, and the EPA. Uneducated techs sell what they're told to sell from manufacturers. And sometimes they sell you something that you don't need, because they don't have the ability to diagnose problems correctly. I've seen some motors from trane sell for 500+ dollars. Those same motors can be had generically for less than half through part stores or other routes. But if a tech doesn't know that, you might get a bigger bill. It's kind of like buying parts from rock auto, and buying from the dealership. There's a big price difference, and sometimes a big quality difference. And as far as things going out if date, you can blame the EPA for that. They keep upping their minimum seer ratings (energy efficiency ratings), and acceptable refrigerants, making manufacturers constantly having to adapt to a constantly changing standard. R22 was the norm for a lot of years. It could be purchased for under a dollar a pound. Now that the EPA has banned production of r22 for its damage to the atmosphere, and it can cost upwards of 120 bucks a pound. The truth is that not all HVAC people are trying to RIP you off, and they have to make a living too. It's not an easy one by any means either. You have to have electrical knowledge, plumbing knowledge, refrigerant knowledge, air flow knowledge, and more. And you get to do this in the hottest environment possible all summer long. You're never called somewhere to enjoy the air conditioning, you're called somewhere hot to sweat your balls off in an attic, or a hot roof, and then on to the next one. You rarely see the same problem or piece of equipment twice in a day. You're always working on something new, that you've never seen before, and expected to know how to fix. And you do it for lower wages than most plumbers or electricians. You work 12s or 14s all summer long, and work call outs on weekends. It's a miserable trade honestly. Plus no one ever even knows you exist until they're hot and sweating. Then they get mad at you because you're there to RIP them off. Lol. Most under appreciated trade out there.

Save some time and money. Go to sportsman's warehouse. Buy h4831sc. Work up from min. Shoot good groups. Be happy. I tried 10 different powders in my saum, and have 2 buddies that shoot 280ai's. There's a reason nosler lists h4831sc as the most accurate powder for the 280ai and 7saum. It's on the shelf waiting for you. Or you can do it the long way. My saum can put sub 3/4" groups together at 200 yards. And I'm talking 10+ round groups. None of those I got lucky 3 shot groups.

Sorry. Wish I would have read this sooner. You are honestly better off though getting a new unit, rather than repairing the old one. It will cost too much, and you'll still be stuck with an old unit. Most AC companies have sort of financing program for new AC installations if you don't have the cash. Just something to think about.

Check this out. It's some basic load data from Nosler. Might help you. https://load-data.nosler.com/load-data/7mm-remington-saum/ https://load-data.nosler.com/load-data/280-ackley-improved/

Use Hodgdon H4831SC, and start at 55 grains of powder. The 280 AI is pretty much a 7 Saum. They are ballistically equal. H4831SC is a known performer with the 280AI and the 7 SAUM. I'm running 58.5 grains of H4831SC in my 7 SAUM, with the 162 ELDX, and have AWESOME results. They like a lot of jump too. Try loading them like .030" off the lands.

Just a word of advice to anyone who might experience this in the future. If you here the condensing unit trying to start, but won't, TURN OFF THE POWER TO YOUR AIR CONDITIONER!!!!! It just might save you a compressor. Trying to run an Air Conditioner that is broken, will usually just break more stuff. I know it sucks to turn it off, but you will potentially save yourself thousands of dollars in the long run. Leave it off until someone that knows what they are doing can look at it. This compressor possibly could have been saved. A new run cap, and a hard start kit, might have bought it a few more years of operation. It could have been as simple as a bad contactor. Hopefully the OP will update us on the problem once he finds it out.

Found one. Thanks. Please disregard this thread.

My Boyd's stock just cracked on me. I'm looking for another stock please. My rifle is a long action, center feed, with detachable box magazine. It used to be bottom bolt release, but that doesnt matter anymore. I've converted it to a blind bolt release (have to remove the stock to activate the bolt release). Anyways, if someone has a stock for sale, please let me know what you have. I'm open to a stock or chassis system, as long as it's not too pricey. Thanks.

Oh and it's a right handed rifle.

PM sent.

Yes! But only for me.

Nice to finally see something other than "Not Drawn". Lol.

Results of the first leftover go are on the portal. Fyi.

I was one of THOSE guys, and called Game and Fish this morning. They said they hope to be done by Thursday afternoon with the leftovers. They hope to have the portals updated by then too.

The SAUM will have a longer neck for increased accuracy. It will be down 100 fps or so on velocity. Brass should be more available in the near future. It's gaining popularity for sure. Now they call it the 6.5 Gap 4s. I went with the 7 saum instead of the 6.5, so I didn't have to mess with sizing the brass. I'm VERY pleased with the rifle. Low recoil, and it shoots sub .5 moa out to 1000 yards. I'm at a good accuracy node at 2956 fps with the 162 gr ELDX. I could easily push this bullet over 3050+ fps, but like how it shoots at 2956 fps. My next rifle will more than likely be a 6.5 gap 4s.