galiuro mountain man

Mama?

I use the limbsaver modular stabilizer and a doinker at the same time on both of my bows. I use them for vibration elimination and balance. I have one of the modules on the back of each riser (Bowtech and Mathews) and two mods up front with the doinker on the end. Works very well and is still short.

If you want one that will last forever, use the Bitzenberger. Then you can get different styles of clamps for helical and stuff. They are also fully adjustable and can do three vanes or four and will work with any vanes or feathers. If you want to be limited to what kind of set up you want then get any of the others. I own two of the jo jans and have them screwed to one bench inline so I can do 12 at a time and never use them. They are harder to use and I can fletch carbon arrows faster with the bitz.

Take a couple of days off, you are probably putting pressure on yourself to shoot better each day. Dont beat yourself up and relax, that is what it is about. Target panic and punching usually comes from anxiety and stress, usually because you know you can shoot better. It is actually a vicious psychological cycle that happens to all of us at one time or another. One day, all the arrows fall perfect, small groups right where they are wanted, then the next isnt bad, maybe 1/2" larger groups, but still on target. This is a little frustrating so the next day form is focused on, but in reality form was good now when you look at it, you change something (now it will be a couple of days at least before you are used to it, and the cycle repeats with new form). Then with all of the frustration comes target panic and punching (most of the time it is done by dropping onto the target from above and punching the trigger when the sights cross the target), and it just continues on like this. Then the fun begins, as far as archery goes trigger punching is the hardest habit to break. The easiest way to break this habit is to relax (and I still do it at least once a month to keep my form solid) and not worry where the arrow hits. First find a good, large target butt about shoulder hieght, set aside 20 to 30 minutes a day, and shoot it with your eyes closed, shoulder hieght and at about 5 yards, to get the feel of your form. To break a habit do this for a week or so, but do not try to shoot targets during this week (it may cause frustration again). One day feel your anchor point. Then the next, focus on trigger pull, then stance and so on. After that week your form should be pretty solid. Now it is time to shoot targets, but dont think about anything except picking the correct pin and shoot a group, your mind and body will automatically go back to the same form, and center the chosen pin, and if practiced enought it will squeeze, not punch, the trigger. After this groups should be more consistant. Also, dont worry about holding still on a target, everyone has a natural arc when shooting, just hold around the target and the arrows will start hitting the spot you want. The biggest issue, dont get frustrated to begin with, if you have a bad day, shrug it off and try again later. It is supposed to be fun, right?

As far as tuning, what you really need to do is have them put the bow to spec., then do the rest yourself. Reason being is everyone shoots different and what may be tuned for one person could be out of whack for another. When I did my customers bows I always had them paper tune after putting the bow to spec., then if I saw them at the range, I would help with walkback or group tuning. After this all that is left is to shoot broadheads. I would ask when you pick up your bow if you could paper tune it yourself, it will make shooting the bow a whole lot more enjoyable if it is set up to you and not someone else.

Bobbyo, it isnt the sight that had a problem, it is the hight of your friends peep. What bow did he switch from to go to the DXT. I would imagine it was probably a longer axle to axle bow where the string angle at full draw was not as sharp. With the shorter bows the anchor and peep must be moved to compensate for the sharp angles. If he really likes the sight, move his peep up 1/4 to 1/2 an inch, that should center his sight or at least make it closer. It will also tighten the pin gaps a touch. As far as whisker bisquit goes, it is a decent rest, but to shoot extended ranges accurately proper and solid form must be used. They also have a tendancy to tear up fletchings. I tested one to see if I would like it, and it was ok, but it does slow the arrows down, which to me isnt a big deal as long as it shoots accurate, but it opened my groups up a little, and it even opened up the groups through my shooting machine. That is the reason I shoot a ripcord, it holds the arrow in place, and is not as touchy to any problems with form or follow through. Oh, bobbyo, if your friend wants to get rid of his Spott Hogg 7dp sights let me know.

I see a lot out here in SE AZ every year, 2 of them in my property next to my house, and a couple more at a friends house this last year. A few years ago I got hit by one just above the top of my boot while building a corral, it just scratched me with a tooth, and the little poison that got in burned my led like fire. It also made my fingers and toes numb for a few days. Everyone always wonders why I wear leather boots all year long, even when in the water at the river, and I tell them about being bit and how many times I have had close calls. They CAN bite through leather, but it is better protection than a regular shoe.

Just trace around your boot and cut. Also leave little flaps where the straps wrap around for extra area to sew. I have been putting 3 straps on each one, the front loops around the toes, middle around the back of the boot and the back around the top of your foot. This way it is secure.

No, those are my wifes favorite so I am giving them to her.

I dont know how many sounds the FX3 can have, I know they come with 32, can they have more? Look at some of the websites that sell them, I saw some that had bundles of sounds for couple of bucks, I think they were 5 or 8 sounds at a time. I own the FX5 and have almost 100 by buying these packages and they were all around two to three dollars each.

All that I do is go to a local carpet shop and tell them to save some of the scraps from a heavy carpet they normally throw away. Then I get some carpet thread and sew on some straps I buy from walmart. They have some heavy velcro there that works perfect. I used to use buckle type straps, but I banged a buckle on a rock and spooked some deer on a long stalk a few years ago. I also used to get scraps of carpet pad and glue them into my boot covers, but it wasnt really needed for where I hunt. The carpet was enough. Going without boots is always quieter, but in the lava rock where I hunt it is also stupid (not to mention the amounts of dog tird cactus around). The boot covers muffle the noise of me stepping on rocks and they are silent in sand, and bare feet still make noise when you step on sticks. The most important thing I have found to quiet my stalks is to find good fitting boots. If they are loose or have too much room around the toes, they will sound hollow, and be loud.

I have had a bunch of different releases, and my favorites are the Scott. I currently own the Shark, 2 Rhinos, and 2 little bitty goose releases. All shoot very good, and the warranty is great, it just takes a few weeks for repairs. As far a what style, the leather buckle type do wear out. I shoot all year long and shoot a lot of arrows a day, and the leather gets hard from sweat in the summer. The velcro wears out on the regular strap. It is really a matter of preference, I bought my last releases with the velcro because they dont get hard.

I have a set that I have used for 3 years in SE AZ in the lava rock down here. They are durable and cheap. They are as quiet as the $30 boot covers from outdoor stores and last 10 times longer. I ended up buying my first pair of boot covers from a catalog, with shipping cost me somewhere around $35 and they lasted one long stalk. The bottoms ripped in the rock out here and the stuffing came out. These particular ones were made from thin materials. The ones I made have been through a lot and are still good, and cost me about $5 to make (cost of straps).

A few arrow makers are making carbon arrows in what they call "traditional" style arrows. I have tried a few and they work pretty good. They generally have a weaker spine, so a traditional style bow can shoot them, and there is a bunch of different arrows with different grains per inch to choose from. I would suggest looking into the new stuff out there. I use the CX traditional for the long bow I made, and they fly really good out of it. Also, if you cant find them anywhere local, most of the time shops can find one or two around, or have a couple sent as promos, which means they may be free. That is how I got a lot of the arrows I was putting through my shooting machine.

Make some out of carpet and straps, and just slip them over your boots. Could even use the carpet pad to make them quieter.

Actually, most fall away rests are no more complicated than a conventional tm style rest (two prong). A two prong actually needs to have the spring tension tuned, while a fall away doesnt. There are also some of the some problems that both style of rests share, like getting stuff in the moving parts. The only extra piece added to most fall aways is a cord and they are easily changed and last a long time, look at a srting loop, it is made out of the same material and they last a long time if your release doesnt have sharp eges. I have made a few and bought a few different styles of drop away rests, and ALL of them have made a difference in consistancy. I have done testing by hand and shooting machine and have noticed better consistancy with both metods. As far as which one to buy, there is a bunch out there and all (with the exception of one I tried) were well worth the money. As far as my opinion, I like the Ripcord best because I can lock it upright, and I have not had a problem with them yet (all of my bows have been equiped with them). One more thing, about the Bowtech bows with binary cams, the imbalance is very easy to remedy and should not really be considered when purchasing a rest you really like. Side note: it is my opinion that the only wiskers that should be on your bow is the ones under your nose at full draw, but that is a different subject all together.

Looks good

Nice one

As far as fur hunting is concerned, they are correct. When I was fur hunting and trapping before it was banned I usually quit around this time of year and start back up in October. Now I do it as more of a control for population and will continue through the year. Coyotes kill quite a few fawns around here in late summer so I try to knock their numbers down some. So far this year I did pretty good and was able to kill 63 of them around my deer hunting areas. It will probably take a couple more years like this to really make an impact though. There are more coyotes than I can ever remember, but without trapping there is not any "real" way to control the population.

That is about the same reaction I get from 55gr vmax under 100. Big hole to sew.

I thought about it, but I decided to stay home and go out with my family in the morning.

As far as fox and bobcats the 40 or 45 gr bullets should be good. For coyotes, make sure to have good shot placement, I use 55 gr vmax in 223 and they seem a little light to me just over 100 yds. I have had good hits on yotes and had them run 50 yards before falling, even when hit in the boiler room. I am going to continue to shoot them though, because so far they are the most acurate from my ar. Under 100 and they are devastating, and under 50 they are just plain messy, big exit wounds. I guess if the shots are all under 100 yds the 40 or 45 gr bullets will work great, but I havent tried them on coyotes, only at the range and on rabbits.

Everyone that is a member of Youtube aught to comment that this guy shouldnt tell all the secrets for big coues and play like he is correct. That will get people all messed up on what unit to choose because there arent even wt hunts in some of those units.

My friend shoots a 17hmr and we have learned that shot placement is VERY critical with it. We have had more than one run off with a marginal shot that my ar15 would have dumped the yote with. Just something to think about

It is different, but it is hard to explain. If the angle is about 30 degrees or less it would be a safe bet your pins would hit pretty close to normal. On extreme angles up or downhill the target will be closer than a rangefinder will show. This is because the horizontal distance is actually less than the distance of line of sight. I have learned that shooting extreme anglges I need to shoot low, even uphill, but only a little compared to downhill. My best advice is to go shoot some targets up and down hills and learn what your bow will do and how to aim on hills. About arrow speed, this has a lot to do with it, and it is complicated to explain but I will try. Here is a good question. Lets say you shoot one bow with a 400gr arrow at 300 fps and a second one with the same arrow but the bow only shoots it 150 fps. Both are shot perfectly horizontal. Which arrow will fly in the air for a longer period of time? Niether, both bows will have the arrow drop to the ground at the same time, but the faster arrow will go farther. This is because the arrow has the same effect from gravity no matter which bow it is shot from. If it drops at 1 foot per second from one bow it will drop 1 fps from another, the weight of the arrow didnt change. How this ties ino shooting up and down hills is the faster bow will shoot flatter, making it easier to figure out how far low to shoot, you dont have to try to compensate for more arc. This is the exact same principal behind ammo ballistic charts, and it works the same way, except the arrows dont fly as fast, and they are normally heavier. Hope this helps GMM