jeffro

What Catclaw and I are saying are on the same lines, and are true. I have done this testing with a lot of large rifle loads that I have delt with. 7-08, 308, 7mm, 300WM, and many more. Quote- If my pressures are fine at my shortest coal of 3.60 then do you think my pressures will be fine at 3.650 which is the longest round I have loaded? I cant say that they would be fine as I have not watched your load development take place. I have also not watched all the trends that happen while working up a load. If your 3.650 load is not jamming into the lands then you should be fine. Note- should be fine

I have done load development many times, and on various calibers with a set powder charge and only changing the OAL. When I do this I would change the setting depth by .010 each time. I can see the vel change right away as you start to seat the bullets deeper. IE: COAL 2.850 then 2.840, and so on. You will also see the vel go down as you seat longer. Thus allowing you to add more powder and increase your vel even more if you have room in your mag box, or if you want to single load them. Seat a bullet .010 off the lands then seat one touching the lands you will most definatly get a preasure spike if you are already on the hot side of your loading data. An example of this is on a 308WIN load shooting the 208 Amax @ 2640fps. The OAL is 2.950. If you were to seat the bullet at box lenght 2.820 you would never be able to get enough slow burning powder ( RL-17 ) in the case to get that vel before you started to see preasure signs. Seat long- increase capacity.

The preasures go up as you seat the bullet deeper into the case. You can see this on a crony as your coal gets shorter you will see the fps go up even with the same powder charge. Thus increasing preasure. The preasure goes up due to the decreaseing capacity of the case. If you jam into the lands you will also see the preasures go up. I would stay at least .005 off the lands for a hunting/tactical rifle.

I dont like the Hogue stocks. They are better than the tupperware stocks on the Varmint though. Another option is a SPS Varmint. Change the stock out to a B&C, or an HS and you will have a heck of a rifle that is still quite cheap. My buddy has that set up, and we shoot his 308 to 1000yrds with the 208 Amax @ 2635fps. If you look into the ballistics of this load it will surprise the heck out of you. It has more energy, and less drift at 1000yrds than a lot of other bigger rounds. It has 1000flbs @ 1000yrds. Like others have said a 308 and a 20in barrel works great. Another thought is that you could always cut the barrel down to where ever you like it and then you will also get a new crown that will be better than a factory crown.

If I were getting a new gun, or having one built. It would be either a : 1. Custom Action 2. Remington The Sakos are nice guns though. I just think they are way over priced for what you get.

You dont have to have a heavy barrel, and a mil scope to shoot long range. With that set up even 500-600yrds shouldnt be a problem.

I always chain my quad to a tree. I would hate to come back and find it gone. I know it wont stop everyone, but it will help.

Read this post. My self and others have posted some mounting tips and pics here. http://forums.coueswhitetail.com/forums/in...pean+Mount+pics

Tres belotas ranch has got quite bad. There was a shoot out there about 6 months ago. I have also heard of some quads, and trucks getting messed with down there.

I only shoot Remingtons, but I have always loved the looks of these rifles. Nice Rifle Mike.

REM700 7mmRM 162 Amax @ 2935fps with IMR4350 REM700 300WM 208 Amax @ 2955fps with H-1000 Both shoot under .70 MOA out to 1000. Both scoped with Leupold 6.5-20X50 LRT.

5/8 X 24 is a very standard thread size for brakes and cans. It should not be hard to find one that fits. The Badgers are good brakes.

Mark 4s are great scopes.

REM700 300WM 208 Amax @ 2955fps

Loading for a BAR is very easy, and straight forward. You will want to make sure you FL size your brass each time. I wouldnt neck size for any semi-auto. You should be able to get your groups around MOA, but most semi-auto wont shoot as good as a bolt gun.

Swarovski Leica Zeiss I have a Leica, and its been great for longrange.

Grumpy, Nice rifle and group. It looks like the steel your target is made out of is very soft. What type of steel is it? A lot of steel targets are made out of AR500 steel. This steel will with stand hard hitters very well. I learned this the hard way years ago. I took a shot at my nice new target. Nothing moved, so I thought I missed. Went out to the target, and there was a hole melted right through it. I now only shoot that soft steel target with the pistols. I make my own targets, but here is a site that sells AR500 steel targets. http://www.bigdogsteel.com/index.html http://www.lvsteeltargets.com/main.htm

Its a stock that I made by sanding down an ADL. Inletting it for BDL bottom metal, and covering it with fiberglass. I did a little remodeling to it as well. Its pillar bedded, and works great now. However I will never do this again, as it took about 3 weeks of work. It was way too much work and next time I will just buy a stock. Its nice to have something you made, but it was just to much work.

Yeh, I know its a ford/chevy thing. Good luck.

I have always heard its usually cheaper to just trade for a Mag BF action. Get a new bolt. Too bad its not a REM. These can be bought from PTG for around $80-$100. Im not sure about Win. I dont mess with WIN. Try whitecloud gunsmithing. Not much help but maybe an idea.

Im not talking about bench shooting either. Im talking about longrange hunting/tactical shooting. You need to remove as many errors as you can in order to make the first shot count under pressure and in field conditions. I have, and never will shoot bench rest, but I do try to get the best out of my rifles. As said before knowing your limitations is the most important thing. Wether your good out to 500 or 1000 thats up to you to decide.

If you load your rifle/bipod right you will have no problem with the vortex. I have shot one on a 300WM. I would go with the leupold if it were me as well.

One thing that is very important, is to put your crony at the same distance every time.

If you dont want the brake, you could get a cap for it. If done right you would hardly be able to see it.

When it comes to your ES it depends on how far you want to shoot. As you get out longer, your loads with higher ES will start to show larger vertical spreads. This can be a real problem for long range shooting. Put the #s in a ballistics program, and it will show you your vertical spread before your human error and all the other factors that cause the groups to open up at longer ranges. Im not happy at all with my loads until I find one with an ES under 20fps, and most of mine are under 15fps. I just worked up a load for a 300WM 208 Amax @2955. The ES was 10fps over 10 shots. 75fps ES would have you all over the place at long range. I put my CED M2 @ 12ft. Never have had a problem or an error reading.