recurveman

Calm Down!!!!!! Let's not get crazy!!!! Gas or diesel?

I hired the same guide service.

Don't get into deep see fishing. It will cost you thousands and thousands of dollars. You will end up buying a ton of expensive gear and before you know it you will want to go on 5+ day trips. That will result in even more money spent on fish cleaning and probably a bigger freezer!!!!! Don't do it!!!!!!!! It's addicting like cocaine and very hard to kick once you start.

Well I was lucky enough to draw the 13B late rifle tag this year. Also hired this guide. Makes me feel like I should turn my tag back in because I've hired a guide for the first time in my life to hunt an area that I have never been too and might never go back too. Plus, I have a ton of other commitments this fall that won't allow me to spend the time up there scouting like I would normally do. Guess I'll just have to live with "buying a head" and go about my business. For sure won't be putting a pic out if I'm lucky enough to whack one. I'm way past the social media craziness and pressures. Didn't realize everyone hates people that get cool tags and hire guides. FYI - I don't hate on guys that hunt their way as long as it is legal. I don't know this guy personally but he has a skill set that justifies a rather large income. Years ago I decided to figure out how these "rich" guys got so lucky. Take some time to learn their skills and you will have all the money you want or need. It would be life changing........was for me.

I've shot the 147 ELDM, 143ELDX, 140ELDM all the same time with the same powder charge. All shot well under MOA out to 1000 yards. All of those bullets will do their job if the load is right, gun is right and the shooter does their part. I worked up a load this weekend for the 143's that was crazy. Basically it took 8 shots before I didn't hit the bullet hole of the previous shot at 100 yards. If you had good groups and now you don't have good groups something changed. Either with your loading or your gun. Something changed. I've shot the 140 ELDM's at deer and I will not shoot that bullet at deer again. It didn't perform well and took multiple shots to kill the critter and that happened to multiple deer. I've seen good results with the ELDX on deer. The ELDX bullets will perform great once you find the right load and it should be very, very close to the same load as the ELDM's.

They came out with a new style pack and suspension/belt. They have old inventory in the outlet. I've got a bunch of their bags and like them. Grab them in the outlet before they are gone.

Colorado, Utah, Nevada. I've seen more big bucks in CO and haven't spent that much time in that state. You can get tags really often if not every year depending on unit. Better yet. Hunt MD in the rut with a rifle pretty much every year in MT. Lots of opportunity out there.

I will take it. I live at Higley and Riggs. I'll shoot you a PM and pick it up tonight. Thanks,

What contour barrel are you shooting. The thicker the barrel the less the heat will change your POI. I notice that after about 6-10 shots I start to see heat coming off of my barrel and typically I stop shooting and let things cool off (I have time and don't need to keep shooting). My father in law shoots F-class and they put a material about 2" wide that goes down the length of their barrel. Kind of looks like a mini blind that they velcro to the barrel to stop the heat from going up and looking at it through their scope. The heat is still there but they can still see good. Learning how to read the mirage is super helpful. If you want to read the wind at distance it is a must to learn. There is a difference between the mirage off of your barrel and the mirage between the shooting line and target. If you have time just let your gun cool. If you don't have time then put a cover over your barrel.

So I'm going to start the process of building a lightweight mountain gun. Here are some of the qualifications for the gun. Under 7# with a scope, able to shoot 700+ yards, Not a ton of recoil but able to shoot a griz if needed for protection (thinking about downloading a cartridge for hunting but have the ability to load some hot rounds for defense), able to kill medium game (deer, goat, sheep), no muzzle break (not a fan of having to wear hearing protection), shorter barrel. I'm looking for ideas but here is what I'm thinking so far. Titanium action, probably a #3 fluted brux barrel @ 20-22" chambered in 6.5 SAUM, Either a Mcmillan edge stock or bell and carlson lightweight stock, I have a Swaro 3.5 X 18 that I really like (wish I could go out past about 600 yards with the turret though), maybe a magazine? Anyone build something they like and are willing to share some ideas and their experiences after they were done? I already have a custom 6.5 X 284 that is 9.5# and absolutely drives tacks. Love the caliber but need a lightweight gun that drives tacks. Also not looking to get rid of my 6.5 X 284. Thanks,

LOL!!!! That is so true. The next one will have a completely different set of challenges.

That is my issue. I have a Tikka T3 lite in .308. It shoots great for a production gun. Weighs in at 7# with scope. Then I shoot my custom next to it and..........The difference is just night and day. I'm going to take my custom gun hunting this fall. It weighs in at 9.2 pounds loaded. I just have way more confidence in that rig than the Tikka and I'm not saying one bad thing about the Tikka. I actually think they make a really great gun but I'm spoiled. My first shot out of the Tikka last week at 600 yards was 1.5" right at 600 yards in a slight wind. Second shot was an inch above the first. The Tikka guns flat out shoot. I'm not as worried about the money with a good quality gun. I just want what I want and enjoy shooting quality guns.

I'm really looking to build a light sheep gun that can be used as bear protection. Obviously there is going to be some compromises. Most sheep hunters don't walk around shooting a 338.

Lance, Love all the info. For griz protection I was thinking about down loading a round for hunting (6.5 at 2900 fps) and then max out 3 loads (6.5 at 3200 fps. different bullet?) that I carry in the gun at all times for bears if needed. I would need to change the loads out if I was going to shoot a fair distance but I would be ready for a bear if needed. Just trying to make it as recoil friendly as possible and still have a bear option. Would also consider a 7mm or 30 cal that could be light loaded for hunting and then a few heavy loads for protection. I'll look at the lighter stocks. I've used both the Mcmillan and B&C and have liked them both. In regards to the barrels and accuracy. Do you see a difference in accuracy from a #2 steel to a PR sendero light? I'm assuming that getting the right load might be a bit more of a challenge and the nodes might be a bit smaller. Seems like it is doable though. Haven't shot a PR barrel yet. I'm shooting a #3 brux currently at 22" and it shoots lights out and is super easy to load. Have you shot the 6.5 SAUM or 6.5SS in a short action? Are they accurate and do you get the speed you are looking for? Seems to me that it would be great to use a medium action and then load them long to get the full benefit? It would be great to use a short action but every time I'm shooting a SA I'm always wishing I had room to load the bullets longer.

What are you getting for speed out of your 6.5 SS?

Do you like the lone peak Action with the nitride? I've head that the TI actions aren't always smooth but I don't have any experience with them. Does the 6.5SS feed poorly or do you just want to load them long? I would have to load them longer than a SA would allow. I am looking at using a medium and maybe a long action. The weight difference is small but it leaves open a bunch of options. Do you like the 6.5SS other than needing it in a longer action? Do you like the Trigger tech? Haven't shot one yet. I've been shooting jewels, timneys. Don't know how the trigger tech compares. Yeah I'm a big fan of shorter barrels. You can get better velocity than people think with a shorter barrel and I don't give up anything in accuracy. I'm getting 2910 out of my 6.5 X284 with a 22" barrel shooting a 143 ELDX bullet. Started life with a 30" barrel and the gun was a tad bit heavier and didn't shoot anymore accurate. I've been really happy with my swaro scope. It comes in at 16 ounces and I've been dialing the crap out of that scope for the last 6 months (probably 400-500 shots) and it has been perfect so far. What scope did you guys use? Great info. Thanks,

I have a Tikka in .308 that is 7# and shoots better than 1/2 MOA all day. Problem is once you have a custom gun that shoots like a custom gun should..........It is tough not to use a custom if you are thinking about shooting more than 300 yards.

I think it can get done for about 3-4K give or take........Minus the glass. Thinking $1500 for the action, 650-1000 for the barrel and chambering, 500 for the stock, then a trigger and bottom metal.

So I looked at your model. I don't know if you are going to be super happy with those unless you are really into steep climbing and mountaineering. My boots are more supportive and stiffer than anything I've tried on at any store in town. Go to REI and try these on. the 2092's are going to be much stiffer and a bit harder to walk in.

https://www.rei.com/product/774690/zamberlan-vioz-gtx-hiking-boots-mens I bought the boot above at REI. They are SUPER stiff. I had to wear them to work a few days just to get them broke in enough to hike in them. Probably a good 20-30 hours before I even thought about doing something in them besides going to work or around the house. Now I've got probably close to 30 miles hiking with a pack on my back this summer and I love the boots. They are a bit heavier than some but I think the weight is worth the stiffness and support. Easily the stiffest boot REI had on their shelf in Tempe. I believe that I also bought a wide. I have many parts of my body that are fat......not just my feet. You will like them if they fit your feet properly. Mine fit perfect.

Having a gun capable of shooting 1000 yards and beyond is one thing. Having the skill to hit a 10" circle at 1000 yards is another subject. I know a bunch of people that have a 1000 yard gun that will shoot well under SUB MOA. Most of the people that own those guns don't have the skill set to understand what variables affect the point of impact out past 400-500 yards. Simple example. If someone sights in their gun in Phoenix and checks their dope at Ben Avery. Then they go up to Flag to go elk hunting at 7,000'. Then there is a 10MPH wind. The correction for elevation is 24" and the correction for windage is 54". Basically 2 feet high and 4.5 feet left or right. Understanding how those variables change the point of impact is really the difference between hitting and missing an animal. Most people think they have the skill because they own a gun capable of shooting 1000 yards. I was shooting in wind this weekend at 600 yards where we were aiming from dead on to 4.5 MOA off depending on wind conditions. At 1000 yards that would be from dead on to about 8 MOA. All I'm saying is that there is a big difference from shooting 400 yards to shooting 1000 yards. Practice, Practice, Practice will make a big difference.

I've used Van Horn. He is OK. I wouldn't use him again. I have heard good things about Phoenix Custom.

Well that is a lot of bang for sure. If I'm looking to build a long range gun I might be thinking of a cartridge that is a bit friendlier to shoot. I've built a few custom guns now (one being an 11# 338 lapua with no brake) and I've found that the 270 to 300 win mag range is really fun to shoot. Bigger typically isn't fun to shoot and if you want to crush with a long range gun you need to dent a bunch of primers......LOTS. Now if you are OK with a 15+ pound gun then the 30-378 would be more fun to shoot and less fun to carry. Building one yourself is easy to do. Only thing you need to do is find a guy to chamber your barrel. The rest of it just screws together.

So, I talked to a biologist up in MT the other day. I asked him about bringing a handgun and he suggested it would be a great too. His thought is you might as well shoot yourself to put yourself out of misery because it isn't going to kill the bear. He said that out of all the bear attacks his partner has investigated he has never seen a person carry a gun and actually hit the grizzly. He did say that bear spray has worked a bunch of times and highly suggested that instead of a handgun (or any gun for that matter) This biologist isn't an anti hunter either. He is well known and really likes hunting but thinks bear spray throws a bigger pattern and seems to irritate the bear better than a gun. Personally. I'll be bringing a gun. Hopefully I won't need it,,,,,but if I do I'm hoping I can actually keep my crap together and hit the bear instead of killing rocks.

I normally carry a #80 braid spinning rod that I put a #40-60 floro leader on so I can cast. It is a bad butt setup and just for this type of action. You can throw a chunk of iron so far it would take the rest of the day to reel it back in. I also started bringing a 9' rod that has #100 braid that I put a #60 leader on. This rod will also cast plenty far when needed. The biggest problem is these combinations are the last few you need for your arsenal. Normally these are rods 7 and 8. Funny thing is I catch most of my fish on the two rods that I posted about. Glad you got into some action. This sport has cost me so much money I can't even begin to tell you...........I just wish I had more money to spend. This is a very addicting sport.