recurveman

So I'm going to start the process of building a lightweight mountain gun. Here are some of the qualifications for the gun. Under 7# with a scope, able to shoot 700+ yards, Not a ton of recoil but able to shoot a griz if needed for protection (thinking about downloading a cartridge for hunting but have the ability to load some hot rounds for defense), able to kill medium game (deer, goat, sheep), no muzzle break (not a fan of having to wear hearing protection), shorter barrel. I'm looking for ideas but here is what I'm thinking so far. Titanium action, probably a #3 fluted brux barrel @ 20-22" chambered in 6.5 SAUM, Either a Mcmillan edge stock or bell and carlson lightweight stock, I have a Swaro 3.5 X 18 that I really like (wish I could go out past about 600 yards with the turret though), maybe a magazine? Anyone build something they like and are willing to share some ideas and their experiences after they were done? I already have a custom 6.5 X 284 that is 9.5# and absolutely drives tacks. Love the caliber but need a lightweight gun that drives tacks. Also not looking to get rid of my 6.5 X 284. Thanks,

LOL!!!! That is so true. The next one will have a completely different set of challenges.

That is my issue. I have a Tikka T3 lite in .308. It shoots great for a production gun. Weighs in at 7# with scope. Then I shoot my custom next to it and..........The difference is just night and day. I'm going to take my custom gun hunting this fall. It weighs in at 9.2 pounds loaded. I just have way more confidence in that rig than the Tikka and I'm not saying one bad thing about the Tikka. I actually think they make a really great gun but I'm spoiled. My first shot out of the Tikka last week at 600 yards was 1.5" right at 600 yards in a slight wind. Second shot was an inch above the first. The Tikka guns flat out shoot. I'm not as worried about the money with a good quality gun. I just want what I want and enjoy shooting quality guns.

I'm really looking to build a light sheep gun that can be used as bear protection. Obviously there is going to be some compromises. Most sheep hunters don't walk around shooting a 338.

Lance, Love all the info. For griz protection I was thinking about down loading a round for hunting (6.5 at 2900 fps) and then max out 3 loads (6.5 at 3200 fps. different bullet?) that I carry in the gun at all times for bears if needed. I would need to change the loads out if I was going to shoot a fair distance but I would be ready for a bear if needed. Just trying to make it as recoil friendly as possible and still have a bear option. Would also consider a 7mm or 30 cal that could be light loaded for hunting and then a few heavy loads for protection. I'll look at the lighter stocks. I've used both the Mcmillan and B&C and have liked them both. In regards to the barrels and accuracy. Do you see a difference in accuracy from a #2 steel to a PR sendero light? I'm assuming that getting the right load might be a bit more of a challenge and the nodes might be a bit smaller. Seems like it is doable though. Haven't shot a PR barrel yet. I'm shooting a #3 brux currently at 22" and it shoots lights out and is super easy to load. Have you shot the 6.5 SAUM or 6.5SS in a short action? Are they accurate and do you get the speed you are looking for? Seems to me that it would be great to use a medium action and then load them long to get the full benefit? It would be great to use a short action but every time I'm shooting a SA I'm always wishing I had room to load the bullets longer.

What are you getting for speed out of your 6.5 SS?

Do you like the lone peak Action with the nitride? I've head that the TI actions aren't always smooth but I don't have any experience with them. Does the 6.5SS feed poorly or do you just want to load them long? I would have to load them longer than a SA would allow. I am looking at using a medium and maybe a long action. The weight difference is small but it leaves open a bunch of options. Do you like the 6.5SS other than needing it in a longer action? Do you like the Trigger tech? Haven't shot one yet. I've been shooting jewels, timneys. Don't know how the trigger tech compares. Yeah I'm a big fan of shorter barrels. You can get better velocity than people think with a shorter barrel and I don't give up anything in accuracy. I'm getting 2910 out of my 6.5 X284 with a 22" barrel shooting a 143 ELDX bullet. Started life with a 30" barrel and the gun was a tad bit heavier and didn't shoot anymore accurate. I've been really happy with my swaro scope. It comes in at 16 ounces and I've been dialing the crap out of that scope for the last 6 months (probably 400-500 shots) and it has been perfect so far. What scope did you guys use? Great info. Thanks,

I have a Tikka in .308 that is 7# and shoots better than 1/2 MOA all day. Problem is once you have a custom gun that shoots like a custom gun should..........It is tough not to use a custom if you are thinking about shooting more than 300 yards.

I think it can get done for about 3-4K give or take........Minus the glass. Thinking $1500 for the action, 650-1000 for the barrel and chambering, 500 for the stock, then a trigger and bottom metal.

So I looked at your model. I don't know if you are going to be super happy with those unless you are really into steep climbing and mountaineering. My boots are more supportive and stiffer than anything I've tried on at any store in town. Go to REI and try these on. the 2092's are going to be much stiffer and a bit harder to walk in.

https://www.rei.com/product/774690/zamberlan-vioz-gtx-hiking-boots-mens I bought the boot above at REI. They are SUPER stiff. I had to wear them to work a few days just to get them broke in enough to hike in them. Probably a good 20-30 hours before I even thought about doing something in them besides going to work or around the house. Now I've got probably close to 30 miles hiking with a pack on my back this summer and I love the boots. They are a bit heavier than some but I think the weight is worth the stiffness and support. Easily the stiffest boot REI had on their shelf in Tempe. I believe that I also bought a wide. I have many parts of my body that are fat......not just my feet. You will like them if they fit your feet properly. Mine fit perfect.

Having a gun capable of shooting 1000 yards and beyond is one thing. Having the skill to hit a 10" circle at 1000 yards is another subject. I know a bunch of people that have a 1000 yard gun that will shoot well under SUB MOA. Most of the people that own those guns don't have the skill set to understand what variables affect the point of impact out past 400-500 yards. Simple example. If someone sights in their gun in Phoenix and checks their dope at Ben Avery. Then they go up to Flag to go elk hunting at 7,000'. Then there is a 10MPH wind. The correction for elevation is 24" and the correction for windage is 54". Basically 2 feet high and 4.5 feet left or right. Understanding how those variables change the point of impact is really the difference between hitting and missing an animal. Most people think they have the skill because they own a gun capable of shooting 1000 yards. I was shooting in wind this weekend at 600 yards where we were aiming from dead on to 4.5 MOA off depending on wind conditions. At 1000 yards that would be from dead on to about 8 MOA. All I'm saying is that there is a big difference from shooting 400 yards to shooting 1000 yards. Practice, Practice, Practice will make a big difference.

I've used Van Horn. He is OK. I wouldn't use him again. I have heard good things about Phoenix Custom.

Well that is a lot of bang for sure. If I'm looking to build a long range gun I might be thinking of a cartridge that is a bit friendlier to shoot. I've built a few custom guns now (one being an 11# 338 lapua with no brake) and I've found that the 270 to 300 win mag range is really fun to shoot. Bigger typically isn't fun to shoot and if you want to crush with a long range gun you need to dent a bunch of primers......LOTS. Now if you are OK with a 15+ pound gun then the 30-378 would be more fun to shoot and less fun to carry. Building one yourself is easy to do. Only thing you need to do is find a guy to chamber your barrel. The rest of it just screws together.

So, I talked to a biologist up in MT the other day. I asked him about bringing a handgun and he suggested it would be a great too. His thought is you might as well shoot yourself to put yourself out of misery because it isn't going to kill the bear. He said that out of all the bear attacks his partner has investigated he has never seen a person carry a gun and actually hit the grizzly. He did say that bear spray has worked a bunch of times and highly suggested that instead of a handgun (or any gun for that matter) This biologist isn't an anti hunter either. He is well known and really likes hunting but thinks bear spray throws a bigger pattern and seems to irritate the bear better than a gun. Personally. I'll be bringing a gun. Hopefully I won't need it,,,,,but if I do I'm hoping I can actually keep my crap together and hit the bear instead of killing rocks.

I normally carry a #80 braid spinning rod that I put a #40-60 floro leader on so I can cast. It is a bad butt setup and just for this type of action. You can throw a chunk of iron so far it would take the rest of the day to reel it back in. I also started bringing a 9' rod that has #100 braid that I put a #60 leader on. This rod will also cast plenty far when needed. The biggest problem is these combinations are the last few you need for your arsenal. Normally these are rods 7 and 8. Funny thing is I catch most of my fish on the two rods that I posted about. Glad you got into some action. This sport has cost me so much money I can't even begin to tell you...........I just wish I had more money to spend. This is a very addicting sport.

When we develop some wild cat loads we have dented brass all the time. Much, much worse that the one you have a pic of. 50,000 PSI will make the brass conform to your chamber specs.

Get in shape. You have a bunch of miles to walk in the next few months. A bunch. I put in for the 46BE tag for the last 2 years and I did a bit of research before putting in for the tag. This hunt has very few roads and will require 3-5 miles of walking to get to the mountain you can hunt. It's just work and you are fixing to do a bunch of it in the next few months. Try and find the individuals that have had this tag in prior years. I think they will be able to point you in the right direction. They can't ever draw the tag again so most past sheep hunters are more than willing to help out guys with tags. Good luck and have a great hunt.

Well I'm going to bring a .308 and I'm taking a bunch of time off. Planning on a week ahead of time to scout and at least 1 week of hunting with the option to hunt longer if needed (if the season is still open and I can handle more time in the back country)

I did and there is a bunch of good info there. Thanks,

Well this is what I did on Saturday. 11 miles, 3200 vertical feet, 9.5 hours, 12,633 feet elevation with a #30 pack. Kicked my rear end but I made it there. The rest of my planning is going pretty good. It has been an adventure and I haven't even left town yet!!!!!!

Who does hydro dipping in the valley? Any idea on cost, turn around and quality of work would be great too. Thanks

TTT

I have 400 Nosler Accubond long range bullets NIB (4 boxes). I've got another box that has a few that are of the same lot as the other 4 boxes. Asking $45 per box.

Oh I was talking about my mistakes not yours. I've got a very long list of "are you kidding me" moments over the years.