Hoofnit

You can make one pretty easy, you need a nut or a spacer that will fit over the case head (1/2") will work usually and give you a little space above the cartridge head, a 1/4-20 grade 8 bolt about 1" long with threads the whole length. a nice thick 1/4" washer , and a 1/4-20 tap and the appropriate drill (.200 ish). pull the decap rod back into the case as far as you can, run the drill through the primer pocket carefully so you don't hit the decap rod, run the tap through carefully, brass threads easy though. place the nut over the end of the case , then the washer and your bolt , hold the die an tighten the bolt, case should pop right out. enjoy

SOLD

Isn't it though, had no idea there was such a thing.

Got the same chit going on in unit 9 over on the east side...don't know what it looks like now as I heard there was some die off due to drought. Stock originally came off the rez...

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As others have said it's more about the shooter and shot placement than actual caliber or cartridge. You can kill an elephant with a .22 and an elk shot bad with a supermagnum cannon is still going to run off !! my dad has always said beware of a man with only a few tools, like as not he knows how to use them. Sounds corny but spend your money on practice, in the long run that's where it's at!

Still for sale ? tried to PM you

I've used GREEN loctite on this kind of application with great success in the past...

If you are in Alaska and you find a big pile of bear poop how do you tell if it's from a black bear or a grizzly ? Black bear poop will be full of ants, yellow jackets, berries & grass...Grizzly bear poop will have shoestrings in it and smell like pepper spray ! 12ga & brenneke slugs, it's what works every time.

The tags are yours even if they don't show up in the mail, had the same thing happen with my brother who lives out of state a few years ago. He just stopped into the office and they printed new ones, cost $3-4 no big deal as hard as it is to get drawn.

Samurai all the way ! We have a couple of them, they are amazingly durable if you stay within the limits ( read as 31" inch tires etc.) mine goes any where I point it and it has a heater and roll up windows ! I think if you are a little handy with the tools you can have a really nice one for around $4000 and there is huge aftermarket support for them. I'm on my second set of all terrains and I usually around 22-23mpg in the dirt at 7000'

Sloppy fit or wiggle between the upper an lower will cause this, Ive also seen the bolt catch get worn enough to cause it, some parts are not hard enough to last.

I think I'd probably check to see what gears are in the diffs. these trucks can have 3.25 to 4.10 gears that alone with the bigger tires can make a huge difference. Also some programmers will let will let you change the tire dia which will change transmission strategy in the computer. These motors are factory tuned for emissions 1st which leaves horse power and mileage on the table for a legitimate tuner. There probably is a combination of things that you could do to help the towing performance for reasonable $$.

The active ingredient in most all of the copper solvents out there now is ammonia, left to sit in carbon steel barrels it will leach out the carbon in the surface. Ive used it straight to de foul barrels after shooting Barnes bullets with a regular solvent behind it as it will remove all the oil from the bore so corrosion could be an issue. Ammonia by itself won't touch carbon fouling which is why most of the current popular solvents are a blend ( cr 10 is 10% ammonia etc.).

this has happened to me, most times you can pull a brush thru from muzzle to breach and get them out. if that doesn't work take it to a gunsmith ! Mark

Yep, that's pretty much it, some go 80-100yds with double lung shots. some of the trauma with caused by a high power rifle bullet is from the vacuum behind the bullet, they also tend to open up violently. Your combo is probably only pushing 1800fps, so about half of most high power cartridges and looses that speed a lot faster due to bullet profile and frontal diameter aka ballistic coefficient. Best option is to shoot for bone, break the shoulders...just my 2 cents

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Don't over think it, for what you are trying to accomplish the hornady 7mm 140's will work just fine. With either of those calibers shot placement is going to be more critical than bullet selection. just my 2 cents...

I see them once in a while on the Ruger forum...

After 35 years of muzzle loader hunting and shooting I can assure you that using loose powder is to your advantage, pyrodex or triple 7 & the hottest caps you can find (rws or cci magnums) . just my humble opinion . . . backed by years of fooling with smokepoles ! Mark

I'll take it if it's not already sold . . .

I'd fault the scope WAY before the rifle, however if it's really that bad & not the scope Ruger has an awesome guarantee they will make it right...Most all the Ruger rim fires I've had would shoot dime size groups @ 50 without to much trouble and around an inch @ 100, could also try some different ammo but I shoot the Remington T' bolts in some higher end 22's an it's ok. just my humble opinion...

collect interest on all that money for a month...think about it, even at a few % it's a fair chunk.

I looked on there earlier and only see steel shot, he is looking for lead ...not so easy to come by anymore.

I do reload 10ga & it's nearly impossible to duplicate factory ballistics especially with the bigger shot sizes. I think those shot sizes are a seasonal run and everyone is probably sold out. Federal still shows them on their web site as an available load & I may have a box of factory 2's or bb's that I'd part with, I shoot coyotes with 'em. 5's for turkeys. Mark