MMACFIVE

My apologizes. You are right. You effectively made a statement that a 264 WM is not effective (to your standards) past 650 yards. Fair enough. Each of us should be able to have our own opinions without judgement.

Be careful. If you don’t like the performance of a 6.5 CM at 375 yards your not going to like your 264 WM at 650 yards. You might need to step up to a 26 Nosler or a big 7 if you want to go further It’s not too hard to get 2900 fps with a 130 gr bullet from a CM. Heck, a few are pushing 3000 fps with a 140 gr bullet.

With a 500fps advantage the 264WM has a 300 yard advantage. Do you think the 264 WM will run out of “pop” at 675yds? A friend shot a nice MD at 375 yards and a bull elk a little father with a 127 LRX from a 6.5 CM. I was pretty impressed with the results.

I really don’t think it’s the cartridge that’s the problem. It’s not matching the bullet to the situation. I am willing to bet he used a frangible bullet at a closer range and hit shoulder bone or the spine?

They are both Accubonds so the expansion will be similar. They have nearly identical SDs so they should both penatrate about the same so you should get an exit hole with either bullet. The 7 will just hit them a little harder and have a larger wound channel. Take the one you shoot best

Complete Rifle with Outdoorsmans Chassis (no scope or rings), RCBS dies and 2 boxes of Weatherby ammo for $1200. Barreled Action, RCBS dies and 2 boxes of Weatherby ammo for $650. I bought this off a CWT member earlier this year. I wanted to turn in into my 1000 yard steel gun. It Shoots 100 gr Barnes TTSX over 3600 fps into 3/4 MOA. I need the money for another project. Here are the Specifications: 26" Shilen barrel 1 in 10 Bluprinted Remington 700 action Tuned Factory Trigger Short Throat, No neck turning Total round count approximately 225 I will be in the Phx area August 23/24 Mike 928.607.6327 Flagstaff

When you go into Mexico they require that the head stamp on the brass matches the barrel. I have a 6.5-06 I would like to take this year. Does anyone know where I can get brass with a 6.5-06 head stamp?

I was with a friend today who is doing load development on a Ruger American 6.5 CM for his son in law. These are his last 3 groups at 100 yards with Hornady 143g ELDX. The last shot is approximately shot number 20 from this gun. The trigger is still too heavy and he put on a garage sale vintage Redfied 6x with Weaver rings while the new scope comes in. He has better groups.... P.S. His break in was to clean once, then shoot..Kinda like Lance's.

They have ask, and looked at every gun and cross referenced with the ammo every time Ive crossed. Its not worth the gamble to me.

All sold

I have 3 used Outdoorsmans Quick release adapters for sale. $35 each plus $5 shipping (or FTF in Flagstaff) or $100 for all 3. 2 are 3/8"x18 threads and the other has the 3/8"x24 to 1/4 20 thread. Mike 928.607.6327

Somebody must need this for a widow mount or a dual mount binocs/spotting scope build?

I have Pick Rails on all my guns. Some are just sling stud to pic rail adapters, others are permanently installed.I mount one of my tripod adapter plates to a quick release pic rail adapter and clamp it onto my gun. The problem with this system is it is mounted too far forward for proper balance. You need to get locked in behind the gun or have some kind of rear support. It would be nice to have it closer to the center of gravity. I've seriously considered putting a 1/4-20 insert into my stock just ahead of the front action screw. I'm pretty happy with a Little Sure Shot Gun Rest right now (you can kinda see it attached to one leg of the tripod in my picture). You can attach it anywhere you want on a tripod leg and go from prone to standing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thunderbolt-Customs-Little-Sure-Shot-Gun-Rest-Ultra-Big-Mouth-Green-UB-2011-G/253795146335?hash=item3b175e9a5f%3Ag%3Axp8AAOSwgRpbZHVl&_sacat=0&_nkw=little+sure+shot+gun+rest&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313 I hope this helps.

If you have a Pic rail a whole lot of options open up. I have small ( 3 - 5 Slot) Pic rails on most of my rifles for my bipods. I just bought a Magpul 5 slot polymer to try today on an ultralight 300. It would be better to have the balance closer to the middle if you want to use it on a tripod. Here is one of the quick release Pic rail adapters I use. I just add the correct tripod plate to it. https://www.amazon.com/CVLIFE-Quick-Detach-Adapter-Weaver/dp/B06XPGKQZC/ref=sr_1_51?ie=UTF8&qid=1533779495&sr=8-51&keywords=picatinny+quick+release

Ill let you know what they say.

I wonder if it depends on where you cross. We cross at Douglass and I've never not had them check the head stamp. Quality Brass states "Next run when sufficient back-order exist". I will give them a call. Thank you.

I still have one of these

Sold

I love this bipod. I like it better than my Atlas. It is not quite as fast to adjust the height as the Atlas but has a lot more articulation.The only reason I am willing to discount it $100 is so I can buy the taller version. In excellent condition. It shows signs of wear on the anodized feet and a few marks on the height adjustment screws. If you haven't heard of it here is a video: http://www.ruggedridgeoutdoorgear.com/videos/ $225 FTF or $240 shipped. I'm giving CWT first crack then it is going on eBay

Re- read the OP question. He is asking why buy or build a custom rifle when you can spend 400 dollars and get a rifle that shoots really well. There was lots of post why people prefer to build a custom over a factory rifle. Zeke-Be, I stand corrected. I just re-read to OP. There are lots of reasons to build an expensive custom. Mostly because you want too! In the long run it actually might be cheaper than trying to find that one amazing factory rifle (believe me I know). I got fixated on the comments that although a factory rifle might be accurate at 100 yds a custom rifle will beat it down range....which is just pure BS. Thank you.

Mike, I agree with you. From what I understand the 2 most important attributes to long ranrge acccuracy (1000yds plus ) are: accuracy (trying to get below 1/2 MOA has diminishing returns), and velocity Sanndart Deviation. Of course the bullet BC wil have an impact with wind.

two down....

From my research it appears bullets do not lose stability when they slow down: Gyroscopic Stability Gyroscopic stability is the easier of the two to understand. Gyroscopic stability is usually referred to as a variable called Sg. Mathematically speaking, if Sg is greater than 1.0, the bullet can be said to be gyroscopically sable. Sg goes up if you spin the bullet faster. Sg also goes up if velocity decreases. Sg goes down if you use a longer, thinner bullet. If a bullet starts out gyroscopically stable, it tends to stay that way because velocity drops faster than the bullet's spin rate. If a bullet is gyroscopically unstable at the muzzle, it will never be stable. Factors That Increase Gyroscopic Stability Lower velocity Higher spin rate Shorter/fatter bullet geometry Lower air density While calculating Sg is not terribly complex, it's not the sort of thing you can do with a hand calculator except as an approximation. That is a topic for another article. There are several calculators available on the web that will give you an approximate value, however, such as this one by JBM Ballistics. Find it here: https://bisonballist...ullet-stability So the argument that a factory gun can shoot accurate at 100yd but not at distance seems to be a myth.

cjl 2010, The only explanation I've seen on on this post is that the bullets are not fully stabilized and loose accuracy as they slow down. I don't believe that bullets loose their RPMs very much as they slow down do they? Depending on the cartridge many of them are coming with the right twist from the factory. e.g most 6.5 CM come with a 1 in 8 twist. so that wont be a problem. You said a couple of guys gave a good explanation. I missed them....beside RPMs what are the other explanations?

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