Airbusdriver

Just talked to ASNF and they confirmed everything that's been put on this thread: no shooting, no scouting, no farting...you name it, it can't be done! I understand the need, but it sure is frustrating paying for a cabin then not being able to do any of the things we had planned on doing (including scouting). Oh well...there's always the Wii Dangerous Hunts game.. Thanks for the info..I'm done venting now

My daughter will be going to U of A this fall, and I can remember, like it was yesterday, her catching her first fish at the same age. Cherish the moment...it goes by fast.

Thanks for all of the input so far. I downloaded the MapSource, etc, and found the tutorials (5 printed pages worth). I will try installing some when I get the time. I'm still trying to figure out how to use my GPS

I have been looking for some good topo maps of the national forests, etc. Primarily for hunting/scouting, but also also for hiking with my family. World of Maps in Mesa is apparently getting out of the topo business, and now carry a third-party version which are pretty dismal. Has anyone used the National Geographic program that lets you print out your own topos? I hate to spend $50 on a map program then find out it's not what I expected. I also have a Garmin eTrex GPS, but the $100 tag for the topo maps is a little stiff...anyone tried the shared topo files for GPS? http://www.gpsfiledepot.com/maps/state/all I know that there are some pretty good quality hunt unit maps out there, but at $40/unit, it gets a little pricey. Just curious as to what others are using. Thanks.

I got a Lansky knife sharpener. If it's idiot-proof enough, it will be the first time I haven't taken a perfectly good knife and turned it into a butter knife.

I thought it might be interesting to share what we carry in our backpacks and fanny packs when going on a bow hunt for deer. Let's assume that the distance from base camp to tree stand or blind is less than one mile. Also assume that the daytime temps will be no less than 40F. Have at it...

Wade: FWIW, I was talking to the camping dept. mgr at Sportsman's Warehouse, and he said that Coleman has really gone downhill in terms of quality. Says they have a lot of problems with their zippers. Kelty has a reputation for building a good tent. Believe it or not, I bought a 10x12 tent four years ago at Walmart (Ozark Trail: their store brand), and it has performed beautifully. We use it a half dozen times per year, not including the backyard campouts my boys have with their buddies. I recall paying less than $80 for it. Hope this helps.

I am one of the dreaded "newbie" hunters. I have a nice Matthews bow setup that I bought used from a friend, backpack & fanny pack, boots, etc...most of the trappings to get started. My confusion lies in whether or not to draw for a specific hunt number or try the non permit tag option. Given that I don't have a partner or mentor, I am wondering which route to take: spend the money nn a deer tag application for specific hunts in the fall, or try the non-permit tag route. I was told that my chances of seeing deer might be increased in the late summer hunts, as they are less skiddish, and more apt to approach water tanks. I have done a lot of research and scouted a couple of locations up on the rim, which is where I plan to start. I've also learned a lot from this forum, but am wondering what the next step should be for a new bow hunter who plans to hunt from a blind. I'm not looking for that "quick kill", but I want to make wise choices and enjoy the journey on my way to becoming a more seasoned hunter. Any input would be appreciated.

One more question on this topic: Let's say I draw for and am awarded a hunt number. If I am unable to fill my tag during that hunt period, am I eligible to purchase a non-permit tag and try it again? I assume that if I were to fill my drawn tag, that I would be ineligible for a non-permit tag, i.e, it's an "either-or" proposition. Thanks again for the info

I am using Vortex Diamondback 10x42 and love them. Great glass for $230

Thanks for all of the great pics! In fact they are SO well brushed in, I can't even see the production blind. Another question: let's say I erect and brush-in the blind at the beginning of my designated hunt week. What are the chances that my blind will still be there all week? Do hunters live by a code of ethics that I am hoping for, or will it go bye-bye? Most hunters do live by a code of ethics that you are hoping for but unfortunately there are a few who don't and then there are those who don't hunt and will steal or destroy anything they get their hands on. If you're in a popular place with alot of traffic then expect it to go bye-bye. I won't leave my $480 double bull in such an area but will leave a cheaper model so it won't be so painful if it happens. TJ Maybe I'll just try this approach

I am a newbie bowhunter; this will be my first season. I understand it's important to cover your blind with brush so as to make it blend in. Are there any tips to doing this? Does anyone by chance have any pics? I thought there was a thread on this subject, but can't seem to find it. (I am brand new to cousewhitetail.com) Thinking of purchasing either the Ameristep Bone Collector or Brickhouse. Thanks

On the average...how many years does it take to get drawn for an elk?

Thanks for all of the great pics! In fact they are SO well brushed in, I can't even see the production blind. Another question: let's say I erect and brush-in the blind at the beginning of my designated hunt week. What are the chances that my blind will still be there all week? Do hunters live by a code of ethics that I am hoping for, or will it go bye-bye?

Nope. I saw those animals on a Greyhound bus heading for Unit 9.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/spo/2415727526.html I saw this one on Craigslist today. If I wasn't so short of cash, I would have given a serious look. Also, I've found a lot of gently-used good deals on ArcheryTalk.com Hope this helps.

Just remember: buying a cheap tree stand is like buying a cheap parachute

I am a Certified Newbie...will be going on my first bow hunt this fall. Did my first scouting trip up past Punkin Center, and the only result was getting hung up on a boulder in my Suburban and cracking the header manifold...but I digress.. How on earth to you find sheds in the vast wilderness? It seems like it would be like looking for a needle in a haystack, but I see lots of people finding multiple sheds. Thanks for any info...thought it might be a fun thing to do with my boys.

Well it's almost exactly like finding a needle in a haystack, except that needles are shiny and don't blend in so well with the hay! Just kidding, but you should check out Rombo's friend's article that is a few posts down on the forum. He gives a lot of good advice, especially about what slopes to work while bulls are dropping and what equipment to take. Some things to add to the article are that you'll have good luck in prime locations while the bulls are dropping, but those "prime" spots get picked over quickly - especially in places like Arizona. Once everything is on the ground (say sometime after early May) you might start thinking like a person rather than like an elk. When looking at the mountain try imagining the places that you'd LEAST like to walk to. Those are the same places that pressured bulls love, and the places that other horn hunters don't want to walk to either. Beyond that, just keep in mind that if you do find a big fresh shed the other one is likely near by and you might be justified in spending the rest of your time working the entire square half mile in a grid pattern. A set is a heck of a lot better than just one antler! Lastly, if your eyes and legs aren't sore at the end of the day you probably didn't look hard enough. Good luck! Maybe we'll just try geocaching until the season starts! I already took my Suburban "where nobody else wants to go" and it's probably going to cost me some bucks (not the antlered kind) to get back in Mama's good graces after trashing her 'Burb...lol...thanks for the input

I own a SeaRay Sundeck 190. Bought it when it was two years old, and the previous owner kept it in an air conditioned garage; it looked like it just rolled off of the showroom floor. Pricewise, I didn't get a steal, but the boat has been 100% trouble-free, and I'm glad we bought it. We are in the process of getting ready to sell it, only because the kids are losing interest, and we're thinking of buying a pop-trailer in it's stead. My advice: look for a boat that is 1-3 years old that someone got "in over their head with". In these times, there are a lot of those out there. Also, when I show up at someone's house to look at an item, I look around me to see how they care for their other items: their house, cars, any other toys. If they take pride in keeping their dwelling and cars in good shape, they probably take good care of their boats as well. Just my two cents worth...but spend a little more up front for a newer, well-kept boat, and you will save big-time in the long run. As previously mentioned in other posts, their is no such thing as a $200 trip to the boat mechanic! Good luck.

I am also considering the Ameristep Bone Collector. I am a newbie, and this will be my first hunt. The feature that appealed to me was the added height, as I am 6'3, and it would be nice to stretch the legs. As I understand it, they also have a hatch in the roof that you can open for increased ventilation and glassing..is this true?

I have the Vortex Diamondback 10x42 and love them. $230 at Sportmans Warehouse, or http://www.binoculars.com/binoculars/vortex/7953+7954+8089+4295046084.cfm They have a $15 dollar off deal going on right now, no shipping or tax. They also have an unconditional lifetime warranty.