GotBowAz

We are lucky and spoiled here in the west. If you ever had to live back in the States where you either had to own land, lease land, or fight with all the hoards of people on what small acres of public land offered just to hunt you may see things a little different. I have lived there and I still hunt there on my brothers property, I have set in the tree stands and elevated wood box blinds with a roof for hours and hours. I nearly frost bit my toe's when I was a kid just hoping a buck would come by on our little 40 acres of hard woods. But this isnt high fence hunting. It is however NOT public land, it is private. Your only allowed to hunt your private land that you own so you have to try to figure out how to get those deer to live on your land and not your neighbors. So where legal is where feeders and food plots come in. That's where topping off trees and leaving the tops on the ground for cover and bedding area's come in. Those hunters go to a LOT of work and money year around to make their 30 to 40 acres enticing for deer. And they freeze their hind ends off in sometimes brutal conditions to hunt. Just what hard work do we do out here? Put up trail cams? Heaters in a box blind, I dont see an issue. Id like to see some of the spoiled western hunters sit for hours seeing nothing, freezing for hours and not allowed to go anywhere else but on the property they leased or own. And as bigorange stated, there is a lot of strategy that goes into that kind of hunting... and yes, it is hunting. If you say no way, you would move then I say only if you can find a job to support you and your family. I also say if everyone was to do that we wouldn't have the huge amount of public land we have now to hunt. Quit complaining about others methods, let them do what they do or have them in your favorite public land hunting spot. If its not for you so be it but I dont understand why your getting so worked up over something you would never do or why you would complain about their so called method of hunting... at least they are doing it somewhere else and not in your state. GBA

To fix the HIT system (without adding anything like footing or a Bar collar) would be to make an outsert which defeats the purpose of going to a smaller diameter shaft without making it 1 to 2 inches longer to get past fall away arrow rests on drawing your arrow back. Arrow such as Beamen are what I am referring to. The BAR carbon collar is fairly in expensive and fixes the issue of the ends of the arrow from splinting out. It supports the end of the shaft where the BH contacts. This way you can shoot the same arrows with no change and keep them as short as your broad head will allow. No Offence Maverick351 but I totally disagree with everything you had to say about tolerances. I work with tolerances even smaller than 0.0005 in the aircraft world daily. I can assure you a 0.022 difference from Id of a shaft to OD of an insert isnt going to be a factor in split out the end of an arrow. The arrow is splitting out because of the lack of support at the very end where the BH butts up against the shaft. Not because of the insert First of all you have to divide that total of 0.022 in half so there for it would be 0.011 in stack out tolerances. The thick epoxy glue (that comes with the HIT inserts) will fill that void all the way around and the HIT insert tool will keep it centered. Problem with most archery shops is that they don't use the epoxy recommended by the HIT insert supplier. They use more of a thin super glue which is crap for HIT inserts. 2nd, in the worst case the HIT insert all the way to one side inside you would get 2 things, One being your BH or FP probably would have a difficult time screwing it in to the bottom and or 2, the BH/FP would wobble so you wouldn't shoot it anyway. I now build my own arrows and have found the tolerance very satisfactory and only in a very rare case would you find HIT inserts out more than 0.006 in stack out tolerances. In this case, Spine has nothing to do with it. GBA

Hunter74, they make a collar for arrows with the hit system in them to stop that from happening. I got some for my FMJ 340 because of the same reason, that cured the problem. You could foot your arrows as well by leaving them an inch longer and sleeving the outside with a shaft 1 inch long that just fits over the outer diameter of your arrow. Use an epoxy to glue it into place. I tried to foot my arrows but I didn't like it, then I found the collars and they work great. They don't weigh anything either so you wont have to re-sight in like you would with footing. Hope this helps GBA

I usually pack in for 7 to 8 days and I used to hump a 60 pound pack for that length of time. I had done shorter hunts and got away with 40 pound packs but it seems like about the time i have things (the deer) figured out I have to leave. 3 or 4 days just isn't long enough. The extra 3 or 4 days in the field is starting to pay off. I would go in and pre-scout and stash a camp set up. Then I didn't have to carry it all on my back which I have done before. Anyone who has gone to Revise Ranch from the Roger Trough end knows what a hike that is. I humped a 60 pound pack up there and stayed for 8 days. That was some serious work but because of the extra provisions for the length of stay it was worth it. Now I upgraded to pack goats and my time is much better managed. I can make an even more comfortable camp but the best part is I don't need to rely on having water a source nearby. I can pack it in now and stash it for a hunt. When its super cold in January and you have to get up in the mornings out of a nice warm sleeping bag to get dressed in cold clothes it sure is nice to have a gas lantern to warm up the tent. One 2lb bottle can last 8 nights if you manage it correctly. All that stuff including a bigger tent is brought in and stashed prior to the hunt. I have done all of this even before the goats and to me, its worth it. GBA

Looks to me like you would have to buy a specific diameter arrow shaft to support the trailing end of the head. Too large a diameter arrow it wont go on, too small and it will allow the head to tweak on impact, and yes, it appears a little flimsy. I like the idea behind it though as far as flight goes. It would have much less drag and steering capabilities as other heads would which would make it much easier to tune. I dont like that I might have to buy certain arrow shafts to accommodate the head. GBA

ADDICT, I enjoy your video's, you put a lot of thought into them and keep the suspense rolling. You also seem to have a knack for picking the right tunes to go with them. Probably my favorite scene was of your draw and shoot at the target with the camera on it. It was cool how you figured out how to shoot the target and make it move on impact then edit into your video. I have a great appreciation for the effort you put into videoing your hunts. I have tried it and found i spend more time messing with camera equipment then hunting. But you manage it well and STILL kill big bucks. Great job dude! looking forward to seeing many more. GBA

Im not sure what they are called, most likely cat paws but they are made of a thick felt and have nylon with Velcro straps to hold them on. those straps hold tight to your boots and dont allow them to slip. Most archery shops and sporting good stores carry them. However they do wear out as the felt gets compressed when you walk on them. Rather than throw them out I cut out a piece of carpet to size and then hot glued the carpet to the felt. To date they are the quietest set of sneaky feet I have ever used and they go everywhere with me. I like to use them as a butt pad on cold rocks when I sit and glass. I have also noticed an increase in traction even on granite type terrain or pine needles. GBA

I'm thinking maybe someone shot a buck and caught this doe on a pass through, then the arrow was never found. Years ago this wouldn't have even been a second thought but with today's archery equipment we need to be more diligent about our shot and beyond. This time of year the bucks are sucked up pretty close to the doe's. It's very possible she was standing behind a buck and the hunter never even seen her. GBA

I just remembered that was on Friday the 11th around 9am. GBA

Norteno, Was this during the week of the 6th through the 11th? I had the very same chopper fly over me with 2 guys in white helmets sitting on the side. They flew circles around me several times and then went down the canyon I hunt and disappeared, almost looked to me like search and rescue. I was watching a good buck that was really high up. so high in fact that the buck was looking down on top of the Helicopter as it went by. It didn't seem to bother the deer at all and that chopper was really close to them. I actually put that buck to bed and put a stalk on him only to have the wind swirl when I was at 42 yards. By the way, I was in unit 23. GBA

Well, as I suspected… so much for our OTC tags. Archery deer tags will become a draw here in the near future. Did I get your attention?? The biggest problem with new technology is people shooting at these great distance because they can and they are killing lots of deer! However they are wounding Elk with the same set up. Pat yourself on the back boys because you wont be when you cant hunt every year due to a draw for deer. For all you long shot single arrow deer killers. Exactly how hard for you was it to sneak within 130 yards of a deer pray tell? Are you going to tell me a deer can hear and smell you just as well from 100 yards as 30, 40 or even 50 yards in dry brushy rocky conditions? Getting to within a deer at 100 yards is about as easy as it gets. Closing that distance down to 40 yards is extremely tough! I do care about how good you are making that shot. Why, because your killing deer and F&G is noticing that with new technology deer are being killed more frequently with a whole LOT less work! How is that for a different perspective that not ONE of these posts even touched base on?? IMO the archery world has gone from skill to get in close and seal the deal to fling because I can hit/kill it. BTW, I shoot 100 yards to practice. I need bino’s to see my hit spot. I shrunk my pins down to pick a spot the best I can. It still covers more of the target spot than I like. I hope these deer stay still after you skewered them at 100 plus yards so that you can whip up the bino’s to see you exact POI. I will keep trying to close the distance under 40 yards before I take my shot. I guess im cutting my nose off despite my face. IMO I we should take a little pride in archery hunting not killing. When we go to a draw, I'm going to practice out to 140 yards so it’s a chip shot at 100 and I can kill a deer without too much work involved. The only hope I have for my post is that all you long distance killers will think about what is going to become of our sport as we know it and you are a direct contributor to going to a draw system for deer. Maybe you don’t care. Sad. GBA

Lots of great responses here and some really good ideas. I will second Cameron Hanes back country bow hunting book. There is a wealth of information there. Mountain house foods IMO are the only way to go to reduce weight and get enough calories. They taste pretty darn good too. I do a lot of back pack hunting but for the most part anymore I pack in water (unless I have a water source) and a camp well before the trip and stash it prior to the hunt so I can have a little more comfort. For me that generally means a bigger tent and an extra sleeping pad. If you are going to be packing into the wilderness areas out of cell phone range you might want to consider getting an emergency beacon. Either a SPOT or InReach. I will be purchasing the new InReach SE this year. You can communicate by short texts home with this device through your smart phone and your family can track you on a home computer. Carry a couple of light weight Mophie juice packs to keep your phone charged or a backpacking solar device. Just some thoughts to help keep your family a piece of mind and maybe give you something to do in thew evenings alone back at camp. GBA

I have successfully grunted in a young buck and arrowed him. he had a messed up heavy 2 point on one side and a smallish 4 point on the other. I call him my 2 by 4 stud. He is my first and only Coue's. He was on a steep up hill side chasing a few does, I grunted and he broke away and headed right into me. I have also grunted in other bucks but they were also young. I spotted them bedded , set up quick grounds blind and grunted them into me. They came like they were lead by a string. I passed on them. One was a spike and a few day later a forky. I have had no experience on big bucks with grunting but cant see why it wouldn't work unless they are hooked up with a hot doe. I hope to find out next week. GBA

I shoot FMJ 340's and think their a great over all weighted arrow. At 11.3 grains an inch they pack a punch. I shoot a 2 inch wide 2 blade Mechanical so I need all the momentum I can get. Hope to be using them on Elk next year in 2014 with a little more added FOC from a brass insert. Should boost me up to around 555 grains total arrow weight. GBA

Oneshot, you are correct to some degree, if you keep changing your anchor point and point of draw your draw length will change. however if your shooting a bow with a draw stop which most bows have these days and you stop at the same archer point I respectfully disagree with your opinion. You will not change draw length. It does work and it works well and I don't hit my jacket sleeve...ever. As for quivers on your bow changing tuning. I highly doubt it will have anything to do with tuning. quiver on or off the bow it hit and shoots exactly the same. Difference was on my bow once i installed the quiver it rub up against the draw cord for the limb driver arrow rest. that stopped the rest from going to full deployed position. thus the reason I mentioned it. BYW, I shoot with a tight spot quiver and have it balanced to the bow. so on or off the balance top and bottom are the same. GBA

Being from back east originally this is a common thing to haVhappen. One of the reasons IMO we hit our jacket sleeves is because we are shooting too long a draw. I shoot with a bent arm and always have. its an inch shorter than what I could draw but i never hit my sleeve no matter what im wearing. Some experts or archery coaches say you should be shooting bone on bone straight arm, with inside elbow turned or rotated towards the string. I disagree unless your mostly a target shooter, indoors, or always hunt in great weather because the stuff i need to wear in 20 below is NOT going to compress. Always a good idea to shoot with all your gear on. including your quiver! I practice with my quiver off then when I put it back on to hunt with I didnt notice the quiver hitting my arrow rest cord. as a result the arrow rest did not deploy fully and i miss a good buck as I hit the ground 6 feet in front of him. Took me awhile to figure that one out.

Thanks for the PM. this item is gone folks. If you would like to get a new seat cover for any year quad give this guy John a call or e-mail him. Hiddencomfortcamo@hotmail.com and the number for John 814-343-6064. These are camouflaged on the outside and black like most seats in the center. Really nice looking seats! GBA

I figured I better move this down here as it seems a little more appropriate. out to you guys and gals, anyone who needs a new seat cover that will fit a 450 or 660 Grizzly please send me a PM and I will mail it to you. It only has staple holes on the underside but is otherwise is in bran new condition.It's Free, the story of how i came about it is in the campfire forum under great customer service. If you would like to get a new seat cover for any year quad give this guy John a call or e-mail him. Hiddencomfortcamo@hotmail.com and the number for John 814-343-6064. These are camouflaged on the outside and black like most seats in the center. Really nice looking seats! Thanks GBA

I back pack hunt nearly once a year for at least 7 days, sometimes longer. I do exactly like Paul does. I use mountain house 2 serving foods which I eat twice a day. In the morning I heat water for coffee and make enough left over to pour into a 2 serving mountain house. then i roll it up in some extra clothes or a jacket that I don't use to keep from getting hot while walking to my glassing spot. It stays hot for a very long time. Then once you cool down you can put on a nice warm jacket and eat a hot meal while you glass. works great! GBA

I would like to share a great customer service experience with the good people here. My wife got on line to find me a seat cover for my quad. Mine is ripped pretty bad and it’s held together with duct tape. Makes for a sticky hind end so I am currently replacing it. I got the seat cover in the mail. Just by looking at it I figured it was too short but decided it might stretch in place as the instructions said to use a blow dryer to warm it up. Well it didn’t go far enough so I got in contact with this guy John that makes the seat covers. He immediately responded, looked into it on Amazon and e-bay and couldn’t find our order. Chances are pretty good that my wife order the wrong cover however John didn’t bat an eye and sent me a replacement at no charge and it was there in just a couple of days! We believe my wife ordered the seat cover for a Grizzly 660 and I have a Grizzly 600. Johns customer service was outstanding so I want to pass this on to any of you out there that may need a new seat cover for your quads. His e-mail address is Hiddencomfortcamo@hotmail.com and number for John 814-343-6064. These are camouflaged on the outside and black like most seat in the center. Really nice looking seats! I wanted to send John back the original seat cover but I had already put staple holes in it and he said he would not be able to resell it. So out to you guys and gals, anyone who needs a new seat cover that will fit a 450 or 660 Grizzly please send me a PM and I will mail it to you. It only has staple holes on the underside but is otherwise is in bran new condition. Thanks GBA

Sounds like your adjusting your rest to a point where the bow isn’t centered and tuned correctly anymore. I don’t think spine is your issue but there are other options to try first. You might want to check to see if your fletches are hitting. Put some lip stick on the outside edge off each fletch and see if they are leaving a mark anywhere. Personally I would center everything back up again and the cheapest route to start with would be re fletching with quick spin vanes on 6 arrows. You have a short draw with low poundage so it may take a little more spin drag to correct the arrow flight. It isn’t turning/spinning the arrow as fast, quick spin fletches should help that. Then, go back to tuning by moving your rest in small increments. Do not adjust your sight until both BH and FP are hitting in the same spot, unless of coarse your no longer hitting the target. If that fails then try a lighter BH as you mentioned. That should tell you right away if you’re not spine'd correctly but with a short arrow at low draw pounds I doubt its spine. Just my thoughts. GBA

Thats a pretty good combination for deer and pigs. How will you set your single pin sight up? Meaning will you have 2 tapes, one for your heavier arrow and one for the lighter, or will you just have two marks on each yardage? I shot a slider on my old bow and have to admit I like only having one pin. I even killed a good bull using it but when it came down to crunch time I almost messed up. I had a bull come in and i set my pin at 30 yards. I passed on that bull and headed for the next one closet coming into me. He came in to me at 15 yards strait down a steep hill. I had plenty of time to draw, turns out it was a good thing i did. At full draw in the heat of the moment I just happen to see my pin was still set at 30 yards. When the bull came around a tree giving me a shot at his vitals i had to set the pin about an inch below his chest. Drilled him dead center and was so relieved! I went back to multiple pins after that. GBA

Regardless of what head you choose I would not go with what the costs were to justify using any type of head. I realize tight budgets do have some consideration but of all archery equipment you use BH's are the cheapest. Shoot what groups and tunes well out of your bow, shoot what you have the most confidence in. Put it in the boiler room and let the work begin! GBA

MULEPACKHUNTER, just change your targets and keep your set up. that's a perfect combo for elk. Shoot a 65lb 28 inch draw, 475 grain FMJ's tipped with a Killzone max. IMO, anything under 400 grains is not heavy enough for elk regardless of BH choice. I shoot the same set up for everything. Over kill for Coue's but im not changing set ups 2 times a year. GBA

Have you reserved a spot yet? Chances are they are all taken and have been sense directly after the last event. GBA