lancetkenyon

TTT

I sent my R700 LA bolt off to LRI for the fluting. I have several of the LRH stocks too. Love them. Again, you are free to fondle them too. I have one sitting on my reloading desk trying to figure out what it will go on as well.

Bump Bump

Your build plan sounds very similar to my .280AI. I did a bit of alterations to my R700 LA to lighten it up. Not sure if it was worth it ounce to $$ ratio, but I love it. R700 LA trued (make sure you square it up and recut the threads) .250" pinned recoil lug Bolt fluted TI firing pin and Wolff Blitzschnell spring Alloy bolt shroud Carbon fiber bolt knob Nitride action 26" 1:9" Proof Sendero Light Manners EH1 R700 BDL alloy bottom metal w. R700 box, spring and follower Timney Calvin Elite @ 8oz Seekins alloy 20MOA Picatinny rail Seekins alloy 30mm "Medium" .87" rings Here is my scope suggestion, and what I run on my .280AI. For a FFP scope, If you have a $4k glass budget and want the best glass you can get with amazing turrets and enough elevation to reach out there....Tangent Theta TT315M 3-15×50mm. They come in either MIL or MOA. 27oz. They "only" have 12MIL or 40MOA of usable elevation adjustment, but run those numbers, and you should have enough to reach out to around 1300-1500 depending on your load. I have shot mine out to 1500 with my load. My rifle is 8lbs 15oz scoped. 9lbs 12oz scoped and suppressed. If you ever want to look through a TT315M, let me know. I have four of them, that is how good they are.

I am on the opposing side of everyone else here. I much prefer a 130 in a 6.5CM or similar sized case, especially with a 22-24" 1:8" barrel. The added MV in a good 130 (VLD or OTM) makes for flatter trajectory out to 1000ish with about 15" less drop, and maintains almost identical remaining velocity at 1k as the 140. Energy is about 70ft/lbs less however at 1000. Drift in a 10mph full value wind is within 1.5". Lighter bullets with the same powder charge equates to added speed and reduced recoil. Keep in mind the minimum recommended impact velocity (usually 1800fps), and use that as a determining factor, as well as your personal limits to shooting game at distance.

Bump

Sold

I never did. I was invited numerous times to dove hunt out there however. I was also invited to Kansas to hunt WT as well. I shot some steel with him one time, that is it. I can't believe I missed this thread for so long. Str8shooter19er, I really hope you can get anything back. I wish I would have bought some of that stuff. I would hand it over with no payback needed.

TTT

I have Mossberg 500 20ga that I started hunting with when I was 10. Thousands upon thousands of shells through it. He is more than welcome to borrow it. It is my youth loaner gun now.

What is the cartridge? Weigh the cases. If the Lapua is heavier, but less than 10gr difference, and your load is not a hot one, drop .5gr and test. If the Lapua is lighter, test your load. Lapua is amazing brass.

SPF

Great job, as usual, Tessa!

What rifle/bullet combo has the BC and velocity to have a 300 yard zero and only 12" of drop at 500?

I saw a guy walking out with the only bison skull I saw. Small skull. Has to be the one, but I have absolutely no way of identifying the buyer. You should have posted this BEFORE the expo, I would have happily picked it up for you.

Saw "AZTroutman" at the G&F Expo today buying some really nice deadheads through a buddy so his name couldn't be associated on the auction ledger... G&F officers recognized him, and mentioned the fact they would not be auctioning off the Powerline Buck.

.22 Eargesplitten Loundenboomer. .378 Wby mag necked to .224. With today's powders and a solid copper, should easily break 5000fps+.

25SST. Kelbly Nanook SA mag bolt face 22" 1:7.5" Bartlein #13CF TBAC CB w. Ultra 7 Manner MCS-LRH Hawkins Hunter DBM Accurate .300WSM 3 round magazines Triggertech Diamond @ 6oz ARC M10 rings Tangent Theta TT315M w. Gen 3XR Flatline Ops level Should finish around 8-8.5lbs Shoot a 133 Berger Elite/135 LR Hyb around 3050-3100 and be a laserbeam.

I am not getting any vibe about you on this topic. I already said that. Not saying you have to prove your innocence either. If I was accused of something I did not do, I would be pissed too. Do you have history with rossislider? Did you ask him what "proof" he had?

Easy. I am not siding with ANYONE on the poaching. There is no proof either way, so why would I side with anyone in this case. Other cases, with known people, I lean more towards the probable. But I know of no other accusations against you, so I will give you the benefit of the doubt. I also stated that if rossislider was incorrect, an apology is 100% in order. I just don't see why anyone would start a rumor without a bit of evidence or having heard it from someone else. I actually only met rossislider once, when I gave his kid some free camo. I have never met you, so I have no skin in this game. Just stating what I have experienced with him. If it never happened, you have every right to be pissed. But, you have to realize....pretty much every poacher has vehemently denied being guilty until proof was given. But on the other hand, every innocent person also denies any wrongdoing.

I have no clue about anything that happened during the hunt. No one has proven anything. On either side. It is one person's word against another's at this point. What I know of rossislider is he is not a liar or a coward. If he made a mistake, that is his to correct and an apology is needed. If he believes what he wrote, that is another. If there is any proof like an actual eyewitness account, jury or not, that is evidence enough to me. None have come forth. Maybe this should have been hashed out in PMs, or in the original post.

Let me guess.....you drew a Unit 9 late rifle bull tag?😁

Just finished another stock for a member here. A few photos of the process. Came in as a black plastic Weatherby stock Cleaned it really well, and then primed it with 3 light coats and a sanding using 1200 grit before paint . 1st coat of primer 3 coats of primer Then 3 light coats of the base color, a flat khaki. 1st coat After 3rd base coat Then added some dark taupe on the bottom, and warm caramel on the top for some variation Laid out my patterns to hand cut...looks like a topo map of some nasty terrain Laid out the cut patterns on the stock Hit the green areas with 3 colors, flat sage, oregano, and army green After that dried, masked off the green areas, and hit the next set of patterns in 3 colors of grey/black. Flat light grey, charcoal, flat black. After I stripped all the masking and patterns. Then 3 coats of matte clear. Should blend in with the woods pretty well now.

Ron's Taxidermy?