lancetkenyon

Meopta. For the $1k minimum savings, they are the best bang for the buck of the top tier brands. 98% of the Swaros.

The .300RUM really shines with the heavies, I don't know why they didn't market it more for 180s on the light end, and 210-220 on the heavy side. Even the 230s pushed to 3000+. If you want to shoot a 180, might as well shoot a .30-06 to .300WM. I would work up a load with a 200-215 bullet and hammer game for a long ways. For the 7RM, go 168-180gr. bullets and stretch it's legs too. You won't be sorry.

I like being able to drop the floor plate to clear my magazine without running the bolt. If you want a light stock, more so than your plastic stock, I don't think you are going to find one. Those Tupperware stocks are pretty light, but have a lot of flex to them. You can definitely stiffen up the stock with an aftermarket composite stock however. The B&C with the aluminum bedding block weigh about 2.5-2.7# each. Same with HS Precision stocks. If you want lightweight and stiff, you need to go with something like a Manners EH, McMillan Edge fill, or a B&C Alaskan Wilderness, B&C Medalist Ultralight, Stocky's/AG Composite CF, HS Precision Pro 2000 Ultralight, etc. Those are between 24-30 oz. Probably still just a bit heavier than your plastic though.

Keep both. I have both too. My .300RUM is a heavy LR hunting rifle. The 7RM is a lighter carry elk rifle. Both fully capable of long shots, but built for different purposes. .300RUM pushing 215 Hybrid @ 3100fps, 7RM pushing 180 Hybrid @ 3000fps.

I honestly cannot hand hold 12s and see as much as with 10s, too shaky for my liking. Just me. But I can see a big difference in 15s on a tripod to 12s on a tripod. I have 10x42s, 15x56s, and a 20-70x82 spotter. All have there pros and cons. All get used....a lot.

Not technically designed for your rifle's ballistics, but I had a Nixon M-223 3-12x42 on an AR for a while, and it was pretty good for the price.

What is your glass budget?

For 2017 draws: 27 for resident & non-resident Antelope 24 for resident 25 for non-resident Elk

Great deal!

Thanks!

I would be interested in the stock. Where are you located?

Still crossing my fingers.

What powder?

Subway has a notice about price increases as as results on minimum wage increase posted right on the glass counter. So did another restaurant, but I can't remember where.

A very quick description of my 400 yard ladder test procedures. 1. Sight rifle in, and verify drop at 400 yards. 2. Load 1 round of each charge weight, from starting weight, to a full 2 grains above book max. Bullets should be loaded.jammed into the lands if possible. This will give you the highest pressure, and will show where your rifle's max load is. For example, if book minimum is 39.0gr of H4350, and max is 44.5gr. of H4350, load in .5 grain increments from 39.0 to 46.5gr. 39.0, 39.5, 40.0, 40.5, etc. Then go set up a target at 400 yards. Verify POI on a separate target that you are pretty much center hits. The target will need to be between 16-24" tall. Start with your lowest charge weight, and shoot. Mark the shot as #1. Continue to shoot and mark each shot, always using the same point of aim. Do not adjust once you start. Stop shooting at the first sign of pressure. Flattened or cratered primer, stiff bolt lift, ejector marks or swipes on case head, etc. You should see 2-4 consecutive rounds in a good horizontal plane with little vertical dispersion , within 1" or so. Meaning charge weights have the same POI. Like 42.0, 4w.5, 43.0, 43.5 all within an inch vertically. These are called an accuracy node. Where variation in charge weight and velocity do not make difference in vertical.dispersion. where the barrel pauses for a microsecond in the sine wave during the barrel flex when the bullet leaves the barrel. You can see two distinct nodes on this target. Shots 1-3 are a low node, and shots 6-8 are a higher node. Even 5 is close to the same vertical elevation at 400 yards. This gives you wiggle room in charge weight and velocity differences that will not effect POI very much downrange, and allows the best chance for accuracy. You can see 4, 9, 10, are scattered up and down. Here is another rifle load workup I did, but at 300 yards. I prefer 400, but this was all I could do that particular weekend. You can still see two nodes. 1-3 & 6-9. Here is my .300RUM ladder test at 400. You can see a great node 9-11 at the top. This is a .300WM I did development for. Two nodes again. 3-5 & 7-9. Here is my 7RM ladder test. Again, two good nodes. 5-8 & 11-13.

Put a kiddie pool out in your backyard. The Eurasians will flock to it. Then break out the pellet gun.

If that was a flier 3" away from my group, I would have burned the target! And probably thrown my rifle. I did have some 3" groups at 200 yesterday. Tried out a new bullet, with a powder charge that everything else I have tried shoots well with. But not this new fad bullet. I don't even know if I am going to pursue load deve l Osment with it or not. Tried the same brand/type of bullet in 2 rifles. .308" 212 & .284" 175. Both shot terrible compared to almost everything else I have tried in those two rifles.

I do full case prep on all brass, even Lapua. I weigh and sort brass and cull anything out of my specs. I weigh and sort bullets, and sort bullets for variation in BTO. I am what some would call obsessive with brass prep each loading with sizing, trimming, cleaning, and annealing. I weigh each individual charge weight to a single kernel of powder. I seat and check each individual round for CBTO. I do not trim meplats. I do not tip meplats. I do not check runout on a concentricity guage. I do get 5 shot groups like this or better on occasion. Usually in the .2-.3s however. If you want to squeeze the absolute most out of your rounds, every little bit helps. Maybe .05", but add 2 or 3 more small steps, and it will show. For 99% of people, it is too little of a return on your time. 5 shots @ 100 .260 Rem w. 140 HVLD 5 shots @ 200, same load

My break in is as follows: Shoot one Shoot one Shoot one Repeat.... I always load about 10-15 for sight-in at a mid charge weight according to book. Shoot to zero rifle @ 100 (+1.3" approx.), 200 (true zero), 400 (verify drop estimation). Then immediately start my 400 yard ladder testing procedures.

The Mausingfield is a bada$$ action to build off of.

42.5 I bet with a 27" 1:8 twist and 42.5gr. under a 140-143, you are going to be 2850-2880 on virgin brass and new barrel. I bet it speeds up to close to 2900ish after it breaks in. I get 2840 w. 41.5gr. & 2940 w. 43.0gr. now out of a 27.25" Bartlein My barrel gained about 45fps once I had about 90-110 rounds down the barrel in my 6.5 SLR. My .260 pushing a 140 Berger HVLD w. 42.0 H4350 gets 2850 w. 26" Bartlein.

So can I bring my 6.5 on Saturday, and if time permits, my .300RUM on Sunday?

What is your H4350 charge weight?

No feasible difference between 28 Nosler and 7RUM. Or 30 Nosler and 300RUM. Just the new kid on the block. Like the 6.5 Creedmoor craze. Really no different than a 260 Rem, 6.5x55 Swede, etc. Like my 6.5 SLR. Just the fad. But choices are always good.

Archery for sure! That will keep you out of the drawings I am trying for.