lancetkenyon

Mine too, buddy, mine too. When I hear people complaining about waiting 10-15 years for a pronghorn tag, I want to wring their necks.

For elk or antelope? Because I had 25 resident BPs and no goat tag.....

I have only been reloading for 25 years. If you reload a belted magnum correctly, they are no more difficult than a non-belted cartridge. I have loaded thousands of rounds of belted magnums. .257 Weatherby, .264WM, 7RM, 7 Weatherby, 7STW, .300WM, .300 Weatherby, .30-378Weatherby, .338WM. Never had an issue yet. My personal 7RM has up to 10 firings on some if the brass as well. I also don't like the 6.5CM shooting elk at 1000 yards. So my opinion might not be popular with some people.

7RM with 180s will kill anything you want within 98% of hunting scenarios. The 28 Nosler is an awesome cartridge. Expensive brass however,and takes a lot of powder to run them. But you gain about 250fps over the 7RM. 7STW is a great round. Brass can be really hard to find at times. 7-300WM is a great way to go too. Brass can be made from any .300WM case. They are everywhere. But you will never have properly headstamped brass if that matters to you. If you eve go out of country, that will matter. 195 Bergers are great projectiles. They WERE hard to find when Berger moved from CA to AZ. But not so much anymore. But like any high demand item, they can be out of stock at times. The powders that perform best in 28 Nosler are what is hard to find right now. RL33, RL26, NV570, NV565.

Buy this. .25-06AI on steroids.

Timney 510 wide shoe. Great trigger.

That went FAST!

Take a look at the heads of the fired brass anyway. If you have an ejector mark on 2 out of 6, it is a very high probability that those are your two overpressure rounds. Looks something like this.

Factory ammo is not known for consistency. Lot to lot changes of powder can have big shifts in pressure and velocity, and even accuracy. I would bet that is some of the culprit. Even lot to lot changes of bullets can alter jump or CBTO. I have seen factory ammo go from 2950 to 3075 from box to box of the same stuff. Heck, I have seen a single box range 100fps from round to round. I bet if you have chrono data from before, and chrono the new stuff, you might see a big difference. Just because it is factory ammo does not mean it can't be overpressure in your rifle. I have seen some dangerously high pressures in some factory ammo. Even good factory loads will vary some. Cheap ammo might shoot good at 100 yards, but a 100+fps swing can cause a mess (or miss) at 500+. Learn to reload. Get consistent rounds and I would almost guarantee your groups at distance shrink drastically too. Plus, you get to tailor your rounds to your likes and conditions.

This rifle is a very lightweight mountain hunting machine. I had several .3" or better groups with this rifle. This was during new scope sight in. 3 shots. Not bad for pulling the bolt and bore sighting down that barrel. 8lbs 4oz scoped.

Find a new dealership! That sucks.

I am not big on my t-shirts being camo in most circumstances. But how about long sleeve t-shirts in colors like sage green, OD green, tan, khaki, brown, loden, charcoal, black?

Could be caster. But if you lift a vehicle, even a levelling kit, you are changing the design specs and all of the alignment in it. Meaning....you need a realignment, and possibly control arm adjustments to bring the front axle back into acceptable tolerances. Once you go aftermarket parts, you have to accept certain parts are now out of warranty if the parts you replaced affect them. Which a lift does. "Budget boost" is not the best way to go in a vehicle under warranty unless you accept the consequences of altering the stock form. I drove a Jeep for years. Went from stock & 31s, to a 3" lift and 32s, to a 4" lift and 35s, to a 6" lift and 37s, back to a 3" with stretched WB/cut fenders and 39s, etc. Each time required tweeks to the alignment.

I have had my 2007 F250 Crew Cab Super Duty diesel 4x4 more places than most Jeep Rubicons will ever go. Air down the tires to 20# and the ride is fine for a 10 day elk hunt. Carry an air compressor. As for "Death Wobble", a steering stabilizer just masks a problem, doesn't cure anything. Ball joints are usually the cause. Trust me, I know. I have mine replaced about every 50k. The 6" lift and 37s take their toll over time. Pay to play.

Yeah, I noticed the links too. And the screwed up lack of proper sentence structure. Spam. The one that concerns me is the "xhamster".....

Happy birthday buddy....even though I spelled your name wrong.

Great scope. SO glad it is not in MIL...….

.300NM is a good choice too. Here is my .300RUM pushing 230 Hybrids.

I am with you. I choose a 7RM over .300WM too. Now....if you compare .300RUM to 28 Nosler.....I will take my .300RUM pushing a 230 Hybrid @ 3110 over a 28 Nosler pushing a 195 @ 3160.

What you also have to consider is remaining velocity of bullet on target. Most bullets require 1800fps minimum to open as designed. This limits actual useful yardage you can use them. And any of those bullets, at 1800fps remaining, have enough energy to take deer and elk. So, it is pretty much a wash. Also, the 7RM and .300WM are more than capable of speeding up those MVs, meaning you will stretch the yardages you can hunt to just about any reasonable distance you would hunt. You are talking 950-1050 yards for any of the above combinations. Not too many people would be taking a 1000 yard shot on deer/elk.

DB?

I went and checked....a-hole!

I didn't even check my sizes! I was so happy with the product, I threw them in the laundry to get washed so I can wear them. Got the green in a long sleeve t-shirt and hoodie. The color is great.

Cheater. You just want 14 other people glassing for pigs for you. Smart like a fox....

I can't believe no one wants to buy a $3000 scope for $700 off plus no tax or shipping.