lancetkenyon

Good shooting Greg. Now go slay a big coues!

.270 WSM is an interesting idea. My main concerns would be: Case design has a very short neck, not great for inherent accuracy potential or throat erosion. But not a showstopper in a hunting rifle. There are plenty out there that shoot great, and faster than the .270 Win. I would bet the Tikka has the standard 1:10" twist. Good for 150 grain bullets and down. Which are plenty for even elk-sized game. But BC is less than stellar with the .277" light bullets, nothing even in the high .500s. A 170 Berger Elite Hunter would be the ticket for long range .270 WSM work, but a 1:10", especially in a 22" barrel, will most likely not stabilize them to their full potential, maybe marginal at best. If you plan on sticking with a 140-150gr. bullet, the .270 WSM should make for a wicked deer and medium range (800ish) elk rifle. The Tikkas are known for pretty good accuracy too. Heck, if you like it, buy It! Far be it from me to discourage buying a new rifle!

Bartlein Rock Creek Proof Research Mueller Works Brux Kreiger Lilja Shilen AxisWorks, Southern Xpress, and Phoenix Custom Rifles are the gunsmiths that have done all of my rifles.

Brawler. Hope he got some ladies after the battle before his final days.

His mom?

I have seen targets from this rifle. It shoots! You couldn't build one this cheap for sure.

Was this buck a Res buck? (My bet, With your location posted of San Carlos) Or a NM buck? Or youth unit 8 buck? Because every other AZ hunt started on Friday, not Thursday.

As long as you have no taking devices, perfectly legal. We used to do it all the time. Now we glass by moonlight. Very effective too.

Good luck guys and gals! I am envious to say the least.

See how it shoots first.

I have an ARES BTR 4.5-27 in MOA in my safe right now on a buddy's rifle. https://athlonoptics.com/product/rifle-scopes-ares-btr-4-5-27x50-aplr3-ffp-ir-moa/

You know what sucks? I don't have a single deer hunt to go help out with this year!

I have this exact scope in the mail from Athlon as we speak.

100fps is huge with all other aspects being the same.

Weigh an empty case of each. When changing any component, you usually need to start over on load development. At least back off a few and slowly work up. Nosler are usually on the lighter side when you weigh a case, meaning less brass content, meaning more case volume. Lapua is heavier, Hornady is usually heavier, Federal is way heavier. Meaning more brass content, meaning less case capacity. Same charge weight will mean more pressure and higher velocities. Did you chrono the old and new loads? I am betting they were faster. I am surprised that the Hornady brass produced better results than Nosler. Nosler is usually much more uniform and consistent than Hornady. I actually do not like Hornady brass at all. Unless you have done full load development with the Nosler brass, I bet the Hornady loads were just in a better velocity node, but they were probably too hot. Any other signs of pressure besides stuck cases? Sticky bolt lift, ejector marks, case head swipes, flattened or cratered primers? What is your recipe?

That sucks! Where were they stolen from? House? Truck?

For kids, I would think being able to consistently hit the target would be more of a determining factor than scope power. If they are limited to 300-500 yards, even a 3-9 would be plenty for deer. A 3-12 or 3-15, 4-16 would be more than enough out to 1000 on deer, so it gives them room to gain accuracy and distance in the future. But then cartridge and bullet come into play for what a realistic shot distance will dictate. To be honest, I do not ever plan on shooting at game over 1000, and would actually much prefer 800 max for myself. Even though I am confident I could make a hit at almost twice that distance.

I have 3 different Eberlestock packs. A Team Elk which has carried out a lot of game, full quartered out & boned mule deer 3 times by myself when I thought "Hmmm....one 2 mile pack out or 3 two mile hikes.......let's just do it once (That sucked every time) An X2 that I bought used for Taylor and it is actually more comfortable than my Team Elk pack, but lacks a few nice features of the Team Elk, and doesn't carry the same when fully loaded. X2 on my brother A Blue Widow. I was given this pack, and carried it this year on my elk hunt. I added a scabbard, and it is super comfortable, but a touch big. Missing a lot of smaller pockets, but works great for an optics pack, or carrying elk.

I use a Lansky 5 grit Diamond set for my knives. Adjustable edge angle @ 30, 25, 20, 17 degrees, clamp and guides keep you on plane, and fairly cheap. Puts a razor edge on mine @ 20 degrees. Even works on my M2 & S30V blades, although they take quite a bit more time.

6.5mm 150gr SMK 6.5mm 150 Matrix VLD 6.5mm 155 Berger Elite Hunter 6.5mm 160 Matrix VLD H4350 Thant should about cover it for me right now.

"Unlimited"*

I have always had good luck with the performance of the 6.5mm 142 SMK on game. The meplat has gone through a pointing process by Sierra for better BC. So they appear much more closed than the 140 SMK or any Berger. I will be trying the new 6.5mm 150 SMK in my 6.5 SS once I can get my hands on some. They get the same pointing process as the 142s do. You can see where the pointing process happens if you look close.

I never take my laser bore sight to the range for that very reason. I always bore sight at 50 yds in our backyard from our dining room table. It's never let me down, but now I'm wondering if its not lining up right in the muzzle. The old tried and true method is my next option before buying new bases. The rifle came with the DD bases and I replaced the rings to fit the scope. I've seen people pull the bolt and bore sight at 25 yds. Is that what you do, or go right to 100 yes?I don't think it's a screw hole issue. The previous owner had no issues with these bases or his old scope. When I head over to my gunsmith to get the old family shotgun a friend found and is shipping, I'll take the rifle and have him give it a once-over. I go straight to 100. I bore sight at home on a light pole 1/2 mile away.Then do it again with a target at 100 yards when I get to the range. I am usually never off more than 6" at 100 that way. I have even done it and start right at 200 with no issues. Heck, I did it at 545 last weekend and was within 2' (low) on a big rock face.

I have also heard some models are more finicky with the parallax knob than others. The 3-24×42 is one, but the 3-24×52 is supposed to be much more forgiving. I have been so close to pulling the trigger on one numerous times. The 10-60 High Master is a target scope. Get it set for your yardage and eyes and forget it. March does make a larger wheel adapter for the parallax knob on some models to help fight this for finer adjustment.

AxisWorks did do the excellent fluting work on my barrel as well. And designed the muzzle brake that is installed on it as well.