lancetkenyon

I ordered an in stock flat top, and they inletted it in 5 weeks.

Really good scope! Lighter weight, great reticle, great price.

I would think Eurasians qualify as a "target". As long as there is a backstop (like block wall, annoying neighbor's house, neighborhood troublemaker, Prius, tweaker, treehugging lefty, etc.) you should be fine then.

I may or may not continue to do so...

No season on Eurasian doves. Non-native species. If it is legal to shoot a pellet gun within Mesa city limits, it is legal to have the pellet end up in a Eurasian dove....but I doubt it is legal to shoot a pellet gun (pneumatic weapon) within Mesa city limits. How quiet is it? How close are your neighbors? How "left" are your neighbors?

Don't mind the cluttered reloading desk.... Lone Peak SA TI action weighs 22oz. Swapped the knob for a CF knob Shaved 2oz off. Dropped the action in the stock, and set the barrel in too. Nothing fitted yet.

H4831

I did indeed. I don't have my load book with me, but I am pretty close in saying 3120fps, into .4s. Need to play with seating depth a touch to see if they tighten up any, but pretty happy with the results so far. If someone draws a tag, I will get on it.

I have used kinetic bullet pullers (the plastic hammer types where you put a loaded cartridge onto it, tighten down a collet to capture the case rim, and smack the holy heck out of it to use the bullet's own weight to dislodge it from the case.) I have pulled apart thousands of rounds this way. Along with collet pullers as well. I have used kinetic pullers during loading of the bullet seated just a bit too deeply (.005") so I coukd reseat it correctly to meet proper CBTO. I used an RCBS kinetic puller so much, it eventually shattered one day. Pieces flew everywhere. So I bought a new Lyman. I have pulled apart hundreds of rounds with the new Lyman. If used correctly, you can save most bullets without meplat or tip deformation. So they can be used again. Collet pullers sometimes damage the bullet, and they will need to be thrown out. Well, today, I had something happen I have never experienced before. I was loading for a 28 Nosler using 195 Bergers. I finished loading all the rounds for one rifle. Prepping to start the final loads for a second 28 Nosler. With different CBTOs between the 2, I reset the seating die. Well, I was off by .005", due to bullet lot BTO differences between the two different boxes of 195 Bergers, barely too deep. So the first round I put together (primed, and charged), was supposed to be 3.021" CBTO. After seating the bullet, I measured the CBTO. 3.016". Probably .005" seating depth change would not even show. But I don't do things that way. "I will just use the kinetic puller, bump it out a bit, reset the seating die, and reset it to 3.021" CBTO." Put the round in the puller, tightened down the lock nut on the back, walked to the bathroom which has tile floors. One swift rap should do it..... First rap.....BANG!!! I nearly $hit myself. Primer went off, and blew out of the pocket. Luckily, it did not ignite the powder since there was no pressure built without a chamber or bolt face behind it. I did check, and a few kernels of powder did come.out of the flash hole when I tapped it on my palm. Then, I remembered hearing something fall in the bathroom right after it went off, so I went to find the primer..... Found it.... Might have been the anvil I heard fall, but the cup is definitely stuck in the ceiling. I am really glad my wife was not home when this happened. I would not hear the end of it. So, make sure you wear safety glasses when using your kinetic bullet puller. A primer cup to the eye would be really bad. I am not sure of I will using a kinetic puller ever again.

A little horse trading....

Let me check my Ranger in the morning. I might take these from you.

CoolTouch. Ask for Brannen or Robert. Great HVAC, super honest, fair, fast.

If Inwould have known, I would have brought a couple other rifles and joined you.

So, first day at the range behind the March. Quick rundown. Diopter-Easy to get a crisp reticle and sharp target. Parallax-touchy, but not difficult. Tried it from 25 to 450ish. No issue. Very little movement between 100 & infinity, but still useable. 100 mark was spot on for my eyes. Turrets-Pretty crisp. Not as crisp as others, but not mushy. For the little dialing I did to zero, they moved spot on. I will try and do a tracking test soon. Eye relief is great. Eye box is good. Not picky, even at 24x. Zero stop. As I said, really cool and super easy. It is set at the factory totally off. Sight in your rifle, dial whatever you need. Up, down, what ever. Once you are sighted in, take a dime, rotate the zero stop until it stops. Done. Loosen the turret set screws, set to 0, and tighten them back up. Super easy. I backed mine off just a touch so I can go .4MIL below 0. Glass.....here is what most people want to hear about. Great color and contrast. Maybe better color and contrast than my Kahles K624i. Chromatic aberration. I didn't notice any. But I only checked from 25 ton200 on high contrast targets. Clarity. The big question. On a scale of 1-10. 1 being a $50 Tasco, S&B PMII being 9-9.5, and 10 being a $4k+ Premier/Hensoldt/Tangent Theta. Once you get to 8, things get real close. I would say a solid 8. Better than any Vortex Razor Gen 2 or Razor AMG I have looked through or shot behind. Better than most NF NXS, Not quite with most Swaro SFPs or my Kahles K624i Gen 3, on par w. NF ATACR F1s. Mirage was kicking up pretty good later too. Weight. At 24.5oz, it is one of the lightest FFFP scopes out. Pictures below are in no way representative of glass quality. Photos of neighbors 200 yard target. Reticle. Visible on 3x. The heavy outer stadia draw your eyes in too. Subtensions are not really useable. But who needs holds on 3x? 10x. Through the scope, subtensions become visible about 5-6x, usable by 7-8 easily. 15x. A great setting for long range hunting out to 1300+ on medium sized game like coyotes, deer, antelope, etc. Good FOV, still plenty of magnification. 24x. Long range, small target. I was shooting small rocks at the back berm. Center dot is .1MIL (.36"). Plenty heavy for hunting and visibility, but not too big to cover up a very small aim point. Scope does get a bit darker from about 21-24x, but I will check it at dusk later. I regret mounting this scope on my .280AI already. It might just have found a home there. If I can swing it, I can see a new Tangent Theta TT315M going on the 6CM this fall....

PM sent

I measured spacing of rings on a couple of my SAs, and placed these rings so they should swap right onto my Lone Peak SA....hopefully. Mounted the March up on my .280AI to try out today at the range. Got it boresighted, and should be close. The zero stop is super cool on these. There is a coin slot on top of the turret. Once you get it sighted in, you simply turn the dial until it stops. I have it back out just a bit, to allow about .5MIL down right now. That is it. Zero stop set. I will get some more photos in a few minutes once the range opens up.

The March F1 3-24x52 FFP MIL/MIL illuminated got here last night. Rings and level will arrive tonight. Just unpackaged it last night while sitting in my living room. So this is in now way a review. 1st observations: Scope feels very light. 24.5oz Length is "compact" for a full size scope. Should look and work well on a shorter lighter rifle. Finish is very nice, good anodizing Turrets are not quite as crisp as my S&B, Premier, or Kahles, but not mushy, yet still audible. 10MIL per turn are spaced nicely. Diopter adjustment was very easy to get the reticle in focus for my eyes. Eye relief is amazing. Seems very forgiving, and plenty of room to get behind. You do not have to crowd the scope at all. Seems like possibly more than most of my other scopes. Eye box is easy to get behind from 3-18. From 18-24, it gets a bit more critical, but not as bad as other scopes I have owned. Should be just fine. Focus.....wow! I could focus, on 24X, on a map at the end of my hallway, less than 10 yards away! All of my other scopes, even the S&Bs w. 10M parallax, have to dial down to 10-12 or so to get 10 yards in focus. Reticle. At 3X, the center is visible. Subtensions are useless, like my other FFP scopes on minimum magnification. But, they are there. Turn on the illumination, and they POP! At about 6X, you can see the subtensions come into play. Still very fine, but usable. At 10X, very much so. At 24X, they are a bit thick, but this is a hunting scope, not a 1000 yard F-class scope where you need to see a 1/4" "X". The center floating dot is .1MIL, or about .36". .5 MIL subtensions to help with wind holds. Glass seemed clear edge to edge. Again, only checked it down my hall. Brightness was good. Got a touch darker over 18-20X, but not bad. Again, I will check it once it is mounted. Color/contrast to be determined. Parallax TBD too. I will get it on my .280AI tomorrow for a Sunday shooting review while I wait for my 6CM to be built. No way indicative of clarity of glass.

Oh I know I see where everyone is taking the 33 powder up to 88 grains. That's okay I don't care to go that fast and waste barrel. Actually wanted to be lower around 2950 but could not get a node there. Plus the 33 is not temp stable and don't feel like messing with all the headaches. I am really glad the h1000 worked cause I bought 8 lbs. I have not found RL33 to be temp sensitive at ALL. I have shot it from 30 to 100+. And some of the rifles I have loaded for have shot the same load at far lower temps and noticed no difference in POI at distance. But I agree, H1000 is the king of magnum hunting powders. Very accurate and stable. Clean burning too. And it is a rare 28 Nosler that can handle 88 grains. Usually in the 82-85gr range. Only one I did could safety hit 88 grains. But it hit 3160fps too. A hammer on elk. Which is what that round is tailor made for. A 28 Nosler is not meant to be shot hundreds of rounds a year. So I would think once load development is complete, a barrel could last for years, if not decades. At 2950-3000fps, I can see the barrel lasting 1000+/- rounds. That is a lifetime for most people. I agree, I would take a .2" round @ 3000 over a 1" round @ 3150. But a .1" round @ 3120 is a dream come true.

I am betting .8-.9s @ 200. .7" high by .65" wide...judging by the 1" squares. Meaning sub-half MOA. Should kill anything that gets in the way. Even a prairie dog. Heck, almost a lizard!

Nice mild well-shooting load. If you want to speed it up, look at RL33. I have had excellent results in five different 28 Noslers with it under 195s.

March F1 3-24×52 is due in tomorrow. Ordered my rings and level today which will be in Friday. Seekins 30mm .92" "Medium High" and Flatline Ops Scout 30mm level.

Finished load development on 3 separate rifles this morning. A 7RM and two 28 Noslers. All built by AxisWorks. Eric can flat build some accurate rifles! 7RM built on a Stiller, Bartlein, McMillan Adj Game Warden, NF NXS 5.5-22×50 pushing a 175 Berger Elite @ 3007fps All under .5", a few under .3", and this one 3 shot group. One of the 28 Nosler owners wanted to try the 197 SMK and the 195 Berger Elite Hunter. This is a 9# w. scope, Lone Peak TI, Hells Canyon CF barrel, McMillan Edge, Vortex Razor AMG The 197s shot pretty well @ 3084 But the 195 Elite Hunter gets the nod @ 3121 in this rifle, 3 shots The second 28 Nosler is built on a Stiller LA, Benchmark #6, McMillan Adjustable Game Warden, NF NXS 5.5-22×56, 12lbs 9oz all in. 195 Berger Elite Hunter @ 3090fps 3 shots

I have found most 7RM go between 65.5-70gr of H1000 for 168-183s. I have gone up to 71gr on some. This rifle was 69.5 & 175. My personal is 69.0 under a 180. A buddies is 70.0 under a 168, and the next ADA rifle coming up for raffle uses 70.0 under a 180.

H1000

7RM will easily fit in standard R700 LA mag box. Rifle is a mag fed repeater. I think barrel is 26" Bartlein 1:8" twist? No clue on reamer, you would need to call AxisWorks and ask Eric. 28 Noslers both cut with same non-SAAMI reamer with special long throat/leade for the 195 Bergers. Both rifles are magazine fed repeaters. Lone Peak TI LA and Stiller BDL style bottom metal. I would have to look at my notes to check max mag box length. Might be a Wyatt's extended box length, but I don't remember what the measurement is on either. Twist on both is 1:8" @ 26" finished.