yotebuster

So it’s essentially two things at play, a policy change starting in 2020 pushing all the dates back, but due to 4 year calendar change, it starts out on the earliest timeframe it will ever be thus effectively negating the policy change for one year. Then in 2021 the policy change from this year lands on the latest dates the calendar allows which is the perfect storm, essentially turning the new 2nd season into a third season, new 3rd into a 4th and the new 4th season into a slaughter fest. I anticipate a lot of people will hold off this year in anticipation of 21 but maybe most people don’t dig into it as deep as I do? I do know that point creep is gonna explode in 2021.

2nd season 3rd season 4th season

The way the 4 year season structure lays 2021 is significantly later then this year. So yes you are correct that the new season structure starts this year, but the 2020 dates are the earliest they will ever be. 2021 has second rifle season going until November 7 and 4th rifle going till the end of November. It will be a huge change and a lot of people will sit this year out in anticipation.

With the big date shift coming up next year I’d try for a tag this year that traditionally takes 6-7 points as they might slump a bit with people anticipating the later dates in 2021. Or pick a unit that takes 3-4 and burn your 6 points next year and get a later tag for the price of an earlier tag. That’s what I’m thinkin of doing. PS- I’ll keep you in the loop when MT deer is due.

I’m gonna hijack the heck out of this thread and say the same thing but for 20 deer points. I know there’s some good hunts but now I’m scared to burn them!!

Spent a lot of nights partying in Brookings with my cousins at SDSU. Smallest big college town around. I’m in NW ND. We have almost zero snow so it’s supposed to be 47 Saturday. I’ll be back at the farm in central ND so it’ll be cooler as they’ve got a foot or so of snow on the level but still plenty nice to sit out on a bucket. Just dump the beer out on the ice and it stays perfect all day. I’ll post pics if we find em.

Where in SD are you from? My parents are both from there. Big catholic families so I have family in every corner. Side note, the ice fishing has been slow this year in ND for some reason. Mild winter but that usually makes it better. Gonna try for some perch and walleye on a lake we have on our farm this weekend and see if we can’t fire em up a bit.

Whoa. Sad deal. Tough job that I’m grateful we have people willing to do.

Ouch. Makes my stomach turn thinking of that. Did the same thing as a kid on a trampoline, I’ll never forget pulling up my pant leg to see my ankle pointing at a 90 to my leg. Good luck with the recovery. Keep up with the PT as your calf muscles will go to heck in a hurry from atrophy.

Because of the pitting on the end of the barrel or did you examine the gun and find more issues? Pitting is unfortunate but stuff happens, especially over 80 years. I have some guns with will no doubt be collectors items someday but I hunt them hard because that’s what they were made for. Natural disasters happen too, floods, leaky pipes etc.

How’d I miss that 61?!? Dang good deal there!

This guy will likely be in his mid to late 80’s before he could draw a rut rifle tag. I’m guessing that’s a bet he’s not gonna take!!

Tough deal. Glad they caught it early!

One more add, if they go to regs like Wa ID or OR I’m screwed. Right now my gun is legal in every state I hunt muzzy seasons in when I get a chance (NV, UT, AZ,NM, CO, and ND). Just have to pop the scope off and put the sights on for NV and CO and put the red dot on for ND.

I had a really really primo NV muzzy tag this year and used a LR muzzy with iron sights. It still helped having a suped up gun for a couple reasons. 1: the drop out to 250 is about the same as a30-06 so I can put it right on that far out and level with their back at 300. 2: the energy is the same as a 300 win mag so if you do take a 300 yard open sight shot and you hit an elk in the shoulder blade, you’re gonna pile him up. 3. My gun shoots sub moa and it does make a big difference, even with iron sights to put the error all on your shoulders and remove as much as you can from the gun. I was able to keep softball groups out to 250 with a rear peep and front globe. Paper plate to 350. The site picture was the most critical thing, having the light right to see what you’re aiming at. My max range for the hunt was 350 if it was a buck on an open hillside with good backlight and contrast. 150 yards if light was bad. It really was fun getting ready for that hunt, more like practicing for a bowhunt for muscle memory then a rifle hunt where I site in and verify dope and then go hunting. Ended up shooting my buck at 120 yards but he was chest on and light was low so I feel the practice made it happen.

I was wondering. I’ve got in a few spats on here about various things but I don’t think it was ever over wolves and ever with Kev. I would say whatever road you take with the muzzy make sure it’s a sabotless build. Getting the sabot out of the equation seems to be the key. Then make sure you top it with a good dialable scope. Even though mine does 2570 FPS with 300’s, it still drops a bunch when you get out past 300 yards.

Sorry just saw you were thinking a smokeless build? I don’t know anything about them.

??? As far as muzzleloaders go, I have one from bad to the bone in las cruces. One of the best shooting guns I own, centerfires included. He’ll build one on your own action but it only saves you what an action costs I guess. They’re $4500 I believe. Unreal gun though. Mine shoots a big ragged hole at 100 and 4” at 500 yards. I like the case system he uses over the module that arrowhead uses, although I haven’t used an arrowhead rifle.

Well. What’d ya get?!?

I could be wrong but can’t this be done with fiberglass? They will have to blend it and stain the junction anyhow, why not just make the tine while you’re at it?

Pretty much what duckhunter said. I would say of those three the illumination is least important but it has come in handy before. I’ve missed a critter or two from having my turret turned on the seat of the truck or in my pack (this was on cheaper scopes with less “click” to them). I like a zero stop so I can always know that I’m at zero and didn’t go past it. Missed a book antelope once because of that. I usually set my zero for 100 yards and then set the turret at about 2.5 moa up and lock it. So if I have to shoot fast I’ve got a gun that’s essentially dead on for deer sized animals out to 350 or so. I almost always take the time to verify and dial but sometimes stuff happens fast. The zero lock makes sure that it’s always locked where I want it and I’m not obsessively checking to make sure it’s set where I want it.

I have two Schmidt and benders, a PM2 ultra short and the new exos. I’m a SFP guy but I think they can be had in either. I dial all my shots or I don’t shoot, so I prefer a clean reticle with SFP. The Exos is a 3-21x50 which includes my opinion is a sweet spot for a hunting scope. Has zero lock, locking turret, and illumination which are my three must haves as I’m more of a hunter then a shooter. Absolutely love that scope. Lance is the go to guy if you get more technical then that, I’m a hunter first and shooter second so my priorities are different.

Yeah that’s 380. I said for the most part those are general. 380 would be an exception and there are others. My brother lives right next to that unit. It’s pretty good from what I hear.

I have. 2-12 vx6 with cds turret.

Wow!!!