L Cazador

who did chamber?

Turnbull is the best if it involves an absolutely authentic restoration!

Regardless of what scope mounting system you buy, get your scope mounted correctly! Even the most expensive scope rings need to be lapped and fitted and scope bases need to bedded for proper fit!

Bad buffer spring.

What caliber and was that butt pad added and stock cut? Also 20 or 22 inch barrel? Also is original rear sight present? Depending on answers worth about $400-$600.

There will be plenty left at the post office when he ships in that flimsy flat rate box, LOL!!!

Weaver or Burris. Be sure to lap them.

A 9 twist better on brass? I've been shooting the 280A! since 1990. Always shot 165-170 weight bullets with 8 or 8.5 twist. Todays bullets are even longer and require 8-9 twist with 9 twist on the marginal side for best accuracy. I'm helping a friend put one together right and it'll be an 8 twist Brux on a Kelbly Atlas action. My advice to him was to buy Lapua 30/06 brass and neck down.

Why build a 280AI when you have a 7/08 shooting like that. 👍!

Before you do anymore testing measure head diameter and check for expansion. Anymore than .0008" over new brass is too hot. If you're under that measurement then you should be able to go up in .5 grain increments till you see that head expansion over .0008". What you think is .005" off the lands may be well into the lands. I wouldn't trust that measurement. If you're into the lands, that could drive pressure significantly. By the way did Phoenix Rifles make a barrel stub for you for measuring headspace and seating depth. Also did they give you a blueprint of the reamer specs they used on your rifle. It may not be too late to ask for this.

I'm with Lance on 130 grain bullets delivering best performance in the 6.5 Creedmoor. The cartridge designed after the old 300 Savage case, a shortened 308 is best off with 120-130 grain bullets. There just isn't enough powder room for a slow burning powder to properly deliver those heavy bullets. Frankly the 140 grain bullets gained popularity only because of the paper punchers where energy is of no consequence.

Easy peasy. Remove barreled action from stock. Put it in a vice trigger up. Remove bolt. Put safety in "on" position. Now drive the rear pin towards the left side just enough so the bolt release and spring clear the pin. Watch out for flying parts, namely the bolt release spring. A plastic bag around the whole thing will keep the spring from disappearing but not completely necessary. Now that you have removed the bolt release and spring you can drive the rear pin to the right till it exits. Now you're ready to remove the front pin and the trigger. The sear spring on the old trigger may come loose so keep that in mind. The Timney should be self contained and easy to move to the other rifle. Go to YOU TUBE for video.

Ace has spherical and flake powders. These powders are made here in the US by St. Marks in Florida. Being locally made powders their prices not going to contain the export/import taxes otherwise levied on extruded powders.

Great guy to deal with and he takes very good care of his firearms! Very happy with my purchase! Buy with confidence.

Why just 20 pieces? If you haven't tried it and are just checking to see how it will work, no worries, it's the best. Brunos had some in a couple of weeks ago and I thought I saw it at Sportsmans as well.

$40-45 a pound. Shipments of the extruded powders are starting to come in. Since none of the extruded powders are made here, it's hit and miss with shipments coming in. Looks like next fall before a lot of the extruded powder begins to catch up.

Ok #505 and #507 are both illuminated. 505 is 50mm and 507 is 56mm obj. .

Nightforce says C505 is illuminated. I'm confused, and don't trust optics planet. I'll wait to hear from owner.

I'll take it.

I don't see it on the box, illuminated or not?

I've got the same problem you have, astigmatism, and have to wear glasses. I use only Swarovski binos. The trick is the diameter of the ocular lens is going to limit the amount of field you see with glasses. This has nothing to do with the field of view of the binos. That eye box is limited with glasses and the more curvature your glasses have, the more limited it will be. There are some inexpensive options on the market but you'll be limited on power. The higher the power the worst it gets. You'll be limited to 10X or less. There are Vortex HD's as well as others that meet this criteria. The magic number .845". Any ocular lens that is smaller than that is going to greatly diminish the field of view wearing glasses!

Check Brunos. They had them a couple of weeks ago. $140 per thousand.

Here's what you will need. I did an old Remington 03A3 it took several days. On a Chrome-Moly bore you should not let anything soak overnight. I don't recommend overnight soaking on Stainless steel either. It takes good old fashioned elbow grease. Here's what happens when a bullet goes down the bore. Bullet goes down the bore leaving copper residue. Behind that, powder fouling follows along with the primer fouling which is lead. With todays copper eraser powders you'll also get some fouling from that copper eraser in the form of a brown residue, a combination of burned copper, lead from the primer, and carbon from the powder. When you fire again the process is repeated. There is layer upon layer of the copper first followed by the carbon, copper, and lead. So here's what you will need to remove the first layer carbon and lead, C-4 carbon remover. Use the C4 on a phosphor bronze brush, then follow that with a few hundred strokes. C-4 will dissolve a plastic brush leaving a plastic brush residue that's difficult to remove( more work) Dry patch it before you go to the next step. Next run a few patches with Sweets and let that sit for a few minutes. Use a different phosphor bronze brush soaked with Bore Shine and do a few hundred strokes. Bore Shine and Sweets are compatible, C-4 is not. Whatever you do never mix chemicals. Next use a smaller phosphor brush with a patch wrapped around it and apply some bore paste to the patch. Short stroke it a few hundred times then follow with Bore Shine. Use a bore scope to monitor results. Don't forget to clean the chamber area carbon ring. Rigs that have severely neglected bores will also have a carbon ring that will adversely affect the cartridge performance. Kroil is a great bore conditioner but not a great bore cleaner. Finally don't forget to use a bore guide and don't forget to clean the bolt lugs and bolt lug recess. Dry the chamber too! Some other things that will need cleaning are the firing pin assembly and the trigger assembly. Use Brake Kleen to clean the brushes and firing pin assembly. The brushes you used to clean with Sweets throw away. Sweets will devour that brass brush! Remember there are several layers to be removed so you will have to repeat the process a number of times. That's where the bore scope will help as to how many times it will need to be done. That old " when the patch comes out clean" is very misleading. I just got a brand new Christiansen rifle in. The owner claimed bore was clean and fully broke in with nice clean patches coming out the other end. It was a copper mine and I doubt the bore ever got broke in. A break-in requires removal of all fouling to bare metal!

Check with Dan Cline at Cline's Tactical in Marana.

Nope! It's a 22/6mm 40 degree improved with a 50 gr. bullet!! Way past the Swift back in 1990. Only got 500 rounds down the barrel. Most of them never made it to the target!!