L Cazador

I owned one of these and if I remember correctly the hammer is for both centerfire and rimfire configuration. Once selected you leave it there for a rimfire. The barrel selector gives you choice of which barrel you want to fire. Good luck finding parts. Some places for parts are Numrich or Jack First.

I have one container unopened and one open container missing approximately 2 ounces. Both same lot and stored inside closet. $70. I'm in Tucson can meet you at I-10.

PTG bolts are either one piece or two pieces. The handles are all two pieces in that the bolt handle is threaded for whatever bolt knob you'd like to install on it. The two piece bolt has the handle welded on and the one piece bolt is integral and part of the original piece of metal the bolt was made from. Your's looks like a one piece bolt but difficult to tell from pics.

Try Shooter's Choice shotgun and choke tube cleaner. Just spray and watch the crud come out. I spray two or three times till foam comes out clean. If you use brake cleaner, use the non-chlorinated stuff. Bore Tech also has a new cleaner for cans.

I have 42 pieces of Winchester and 75 pieces of Hornady, total 117 pieces. All once fired from factory ammo. It's a been cleaned and polished. $40 I'm in Tucson can meet at Sportsman. check PM

Did you check Scheels? I thought I saw a bunch of 410 ammo there.

Brunos and Midway carry them. You can also order from JGS or Pacific Tool.

Looking for Nosler 6.5mm 100 grain ballistic tip bullets. What have ya'?

Where are you located?

I've got two 50 round boxes of Precision Cartridge ammo, $40 each or both for $70. I'm in Tucson but should be in PHX in a week or two or can ship UPS if you pay shipping. I can send pics or text to your phone. Send PM if interested.

I don't think you'd see any wear difference in a lifetime of shooting. Beware that the bolt will require custom fitting for both function and headspace, it's not a drop in. For the 3-4 ounces you'll save in weight, I don't think it's worth spending what they ask for it. Respectfully, my two cents.

In my opinion best to buy Redding full length bushing die and then use incremental size bushings.

Keep in mind that muzzle blast is unburned granules of powder exiting the muzzle ignited by burning gases. Heavy bullets need slower burning powder thus producing more unburned powder granules. Even in a 20 inch barrel the muzzle blast is quite noticeable. 125 to 150 grain bullets are best with 20 inches or less and H4895 or 4895 is about as slow as you can go. And 10 twist will do for 125-150 gr. bullets.

If you travel with the 7PRC try finding a box of that ammo on the shelf. The old 7RM is even found on the shelfs of old country stores! My 7's are all customs, 280AI, 284 Shehane, and 7 Dakota improved. Each has a designated purpose.

I'd ship UPS and insure for full value. You'll have to set up an account to ship. USPS doesn't pay if it gets lost or stolen and even their new Priority Mail system is not as efficient as they claim so give it a few extra days to arrive if you ship USPS. Double box it for sure no matter who you choose for a carrier.

Seriously speaking the ranges at which people are shooting game with a 6.5 Creed are pretty ridiculous. Shooting a 140grain in a 20" barrel is a challenge. Slower powders like H4350 are more efficient in barrel lengths of 24-26 inches. Shooting in shorter barrel lengths increases muzzle blast and extreme spreads with little advantage over a 130 grain bullet. I've been shooting the 6.5 since it came out at paper targets not game. It's a great cartridge with 130 grain bullets

Two Indians tracking obliviously wounded deer in snow shot by another hunter. One says " deer hit but will live". Other one says "how know"? The other responds " found 6.5 Creedmoor case in snow"! LOL!!🤣

I think Scheels had them in stock. You can call them and verify.

yep great advice here ^^^^. I'll add barrel length can be an issue when selecting ammo. 22 inches or less stick to 150's.

No they are the 1970-1996 Royal blue guns about 2.5K. The early E prefix guns 1955-1969 go for about $3k and up. The 8 inch version goes for about 1K more and the nickel adds another few hundred. There was one at Tucson gun store recently, 6 inch engraved for $2800 and another at a pawn shop for $2400 6 inch blue with brown box. I bought a nickel 8 inch in 2020 for $2800. This one at the top is a 1979 Blue Book lists it at $2250.

Not anymore. I've been seeing quite a few for $2K in like new condition. The baby boomer's are not collecting anymore.

What Ernesto C says but I would only do load test with 3 instead of 5. After you get close then shoot 5 to verify. Anneal before sizing. Sounds like you may have a brass issue instead of overexpanding.

Measure at the belt and just forward of the belt since this brass was fired in another chamber. Hopefully that once fired brass is within SAMMI dimensions. I'd back off 2 grains and go up 1/2 grain at time till you see the belt increase in size.

Is the Norma brass new? If it is, back off two grains and fire form. Don't look for a load until you have fireformed brass to your chamber. Most brass is made short of chamber length so it will fit all chambers. Firing a maximum load with brass that is short for your chamber can overstretch not only the head diameter but also the body length. Start with 10 pieces of new brass and be aware of case length, case head diameter, and overall cartridge length. I would not continue using the brass that has loose pockets. Loose pockets create a poor gas seal. Escaping gases can damage bolt and trigger. Not worth it. On your question regarding seating length, I'd start at the cannelure for fire forming then go out further with test loads. Measure head diameter at the belt with a micrometer with .0001" resolution so you have an idea of pressure. Any expansion of more than .001" at the belt is not good. You should be under this number after fireforming. Generally after fire form you should have .0005-.0008" expansion at the belt.

Simply put the cartridge head has expanded due excessive pressure. Back the load off two grains and start over with new brass. Trying to whip a dead horse to life is a waste of time. Look for new node in .5 grain increments. I'm going to say the problem is the Hornady bullet which has a secant ogive and you have it seated a bit too close to the lands. Especially on the first firing you should always shoot a middle load to fire form brass and than try your maximum load. Going to Reloader 19 is not a good idea as it is a much faster burn rate. Buy Norma brass.