L Cazador

It's silly but yes they only allow access to the Boquillas ranch a week before the hunt. On top of the access permit charge for you, you will also have to pay for an assist permit for each person in your vehicle that does not have a tag for the same unit. You can hunt the northern and eastern part of the unit. A difficult situation since those parts of the unit have the least amount of water due to drought conditions. The Boquillas has a big pipeline system for water but they have restrictions on hunting near livestock water. Check HuntBigBo.com for more info.

I use an old tuned Ohaus 1010 beam balance scale and it's single kernel accurate. I also own an electronic FX120I that is superbly accurate. If you buy a digital scale be sure to hook it up to a clean power source. Your power source should include a good quality surge suppressor with a line conditioner. I've seen very good scales ruined by bad power sources. A tuned beam scale runs about $200 and a FX120I about $500. A good surge suppressor is about $100 and a quality line conditioner another $100.

The first shot out of a cold or clean barrel will always be quite different. Was that 3037 your first shot? If you go to those last three shots that's an extreme spread of 52 which is about as good as it gets with factory ammo. You can cut that ES in half with reloaded ammo.

Weigh your own cases with water. Decap the case and clean the primer pocket. Then add wax or modeling clay to the primer pocket. Weigh the case after doing this then make note of weight. Add water to the top of neck and weigh again. Subtract the empty weight from the water filled weight and you have your water capacity. Your NECO program will be much more accurate with this unit of measure. If you can weigh at least 5 cases and get an average. Weighing cases with primers spent or live can easily throw this off as spent or live primers will vary greatly in weight. Also it's best to resize the case as water capacity will change on sized cases as well. It's best to use an eye dropper and fill the case from the bottom up as you might get an air bubble that can throw measurement off. NECO QL's accuracy is only as accurate as the info you feed into it!

Is it chambered 284 Win? If it's chambered what action is it threaded for? Also what length?

if primers are still available. I'll take them or trade for Varget.

That ring around the bullet may be due to excess seating pressure. I don't think it has anything to do with your seating die or stem. What's going on is your sizing die is over sizing the neck. Two ways to remedy this is go to a bushing die or neck turn the brass. Also possible is those bullets are very long and it could be you're jammed against the powder charge and there's no room to seat any further. Like mentioned before you can easily take the stem out and make an epoxy mold in that seating stem for just that bullet. A little heat can melt that epoxy if you make a mistake. I've never been a fan of standard dies. A bushing full length die is what I use and a Wilson in line seating die for benchrest or hunting rifles. Been doing that for over 40 years. But then again these are difficult times.

I have an 8 pounder minus a few ounces of CFE223, $350. Or trade for RL33 or trade for 5K primers.

You might try Ballistic Specialties on the internet. Sportsmans in Tucson just got some shot in. I use nickel plated #4 buck it's puts yotes DRT.

Everything looks good in bright light. Did you test both in low light or high mirage? Also like yotebuster says" the Meoptas are cheap but wait till you go sell them they'll be almost a total loss".

All this does is encourage higher prices from everyone!

Ammo? I though they were boolitz?

Ruben Mendiola in Florida is one of the biggest. You don't ask how much you just tell him what you're looking for. That's the class lll business. They're not out to negotiate. Good Luck!

I run 1 ounce to 2 ounces on my competition rifle triggers but with my hunting rifles I'm not comfortable with anything less than 8oz. Bottom line is shoot what you're comfortable with and practice, practice, practice. Dry fire and check for any movement while pulling the trigger. Use several pull weights and see how your groups are affected by each weight.

Try Ebay as well.

Try Jack First gun parts.

Does it include bottom metal in the picture? If so for what caliber?

A brand I forgot to mention in my post is Fowler. They are American made and a great value. I recently added a Fowler .0000" readout anvil micrometer for checking head expansion on my brass. Great tool to monitor chamber pressure.

I use a barrel stub made with my reamer for measuring bullet base to ogive for sorting bullets and cartridge base to shoulder datum for measuring headspace and setting my dies. With that said I wouldn't trust any caliper but a Mitutoyo or a Starrett that measures to .0000". '

That's partially correct! The case stretches whether you anneal or not. And it's not just the neck that stretches. Brass flows forward and backward not only stretching the entire case but also thickening the neck and making the primer pocket shallower. On my competition brass it's not unusual to run my neck turner and take two or three ten thousands to restore the neck tension I had before. For my competition brass I discard any brass that starts showing irregular neck tension or otherwise starts throwing shots out of the group. The number one culprit in neck tension is actually not work hardening but the accumulation of carbon in the neck!

Sorry not completely correct. After several times shot and then resized the brass becomes work hardened and brittle and loses it's elasticity and spring back. Annealing softens the brass so it springs back more like it did when it was new. Some brass like Lapua will go ten to twelve firings without annealing but it all depends on the composition. I anneal with a mapp gas torch, 5-6 seconds on the neck, and turn on a wooden dowel with a drill and then drop on a wet towel. Turn down the lights so you can see the neck turn red. A properly done piece of brass should be bluish not pink or red and should not go past the shoulder body junction.

To know for sure if you're pulling the rifle or disturbing the rifle while pulling the trigger try taking a video of yourself or have someone watch you while you do a dry fire. It won't hurt your rifle to do it several times just don't dry fire with a rimfire rifle as it can break or damage the firing pin. When you can pull the trigger without disturbing the rifle you will be able to execute a proper shot. More than likely what is affecting your long range results is your wind reading ability. Practice in the wind with a wind meter and several wind flags and deploying a chronograph while you doing it is even better. Even the best trigger isn't going to help improper shooting techniques!

Brand? Where are you located? Price? You really don't think we're going to fall for this?!!!!!

Herters is made by Sellier & Bellot for Cabelas. Great shooting in my 40X Rem!