L Cazador

Some of that powder may have been recalled. So it's best to check lot numbers and email the company. I think AA 2495 has been recently recalled. If it doesn't have the smell of ether it has probably already started to decompose. If you get a brown vapor after opening it's gone and could be used for fertilizer. The cans are probably more valuable to collectors than the powder is. Some of those cans go back to the early 60's. Using any of it for reloading is an experience. It doesn't look like it was stored properly so pressure swings could go both ways up or way down. It's amazing what we had to work with back in the day. The Thunderbird powder brings back some great memories.

For ground swatting 6's are great but there isn't much meat left for the skillet, LOL! Number 8's place a good concentration of shot in a 30 inch circle and don't cook the bird in the process. Late season shots with 7 1/2 at 50 yards are great ground swatting rounds and will leave enough meat for the a good meal!!

I've got some 218 Bee brass. Hornady 100ct new. $60 shipped unless you're in Tucson $50 FTF.

The vinegar attacked the brass and could've etched the case to the point it may have compromised the strength. You can dissolve brass with vinegar if left in contact for extended periods of time. It should clean up in a tumbler but it may require some polishing with steel wool to remove the severely etched surfaces.

Buy a reloading manual that's specific to the brand of bullets that you intend to shoot. If you like Hornady bullets then buy a Hornady manual. I have all the different brands but since I shoot mostly Berger bullets I find my Berger manual is the most helpful to my current needs. If you can afford more than one than by all means buy them.

My Berger book(first edition) does not have the 215g bullet but it does have the 210g and the 230g. Loads for Retumbo are not listed. I assume the reason is that Berger considers it a very slow option for the 210 or 230g bullets in the 300RUM. I'd go to the Hodgdon powder web site for load info. A tip when trying any new load. Find your bullet touch on the rifling and always start your load at a minimum of ten thousands off the rifling. Hornady makes a bullet seating guage and there are others that will render great results when looking for a proper seating depth. It is very dangerous to try any load with the bullet jammed into the rifling! A safe load can turn into a very unsafe load with the bullet jammed!!

Gre-Tan gunsmithing in Colorado does fantastic bolt jobs. Greg does accurate precise work with good turnaround time. Greg Tannell owner.

I think you have more than a carbon ring. You also have a throat full of carbon. I think what you are seeing is not rifling marks on that sharpie marked bullet it's carbon in the throat. Note the irregularity. Use Bore Tech C4 on every cleaning to prevent any carbon build up. Also use a phosphor bronze brush with a bronze core to clean that carbon ring on every cleaning. Use a brush that;s larger than your bore to do an effective job on the carbon ring. So for your 6.5 you would use a .284 or 7mm brush and spin that brush till carbon ring is gone. Spin the brush on the cleaning rod with your fingers. Do not use a drill to spin it. JB bore paste will help but I doubt the Kroil will do anything. On the throat you would use a 6.5 phosphor bronze brush with JB bore paste. You have one heck of job ahead. I start every cleaning by patching with C4 till the black is gone. Then I spin an oversize brush and clean the carbon ring out. I then dry patch the C4 out and then follow with two patches of Sweets, let Sweets stand for 10 minutes and then brush with Bore Shine 4 stokes for every shot fired. I then run a patch of Hydrogen peroxide to neutralize and foam out copper and powder fouling. And then I dry patch till patches come out clean. Finally I run a patch with Kroil as a bore conditioner. This regimen is for factory barrels. For my custom barrels I use C4 and patch the bore till the carbon is gone. Then I spin an oversize brush with C4 to remove the carbon ring and then dry patch. I then follow with a brush to remove any copper and then dry patch till clean. Sounds like a lot of work but it's all bore scope verified to be the best bore cleaning regimen ever! A clean bore will win matches and kill what you are aiming at. Two very important things when you clean never mix any chemicals and dry patch each chemical out before going to the next chemical with the exception of the Sweets and the Butch's Bore Shine which are both copper removers. Never clean without covering your scope lenses and never clean without a good bore guide. I use only Lucas bore guides but Possum Hollow bore guides are also good. Do not use one of those one size fits all bore guides. By the way I don't think the cleaning pellets are going to get into that throat or chamber neck.

How many rounds down the bore? 350? You could have carbon build up in the throat. What's your cleaning regimen and what products do you use? I'm in Tucson and I have a bore scope. I would be glad to inspect for you. PM me.

I've got an 8 lb. I'm in Tucson. $180

I doubt that RCBS will consider your warranty void, give them a call. If you go out to buy new, the Frankford Intellidropper is a good unit on the less expensive side.. The A&D FX120i with the Auto trickler and Auto Drop is an awesome combo. With that said whatever you buy make sure you have it hooked up to clean power source. No fluorescent lights nearby is best. Plug your digital powder scale/dispenser into a good power surge suppressor like the Tripp-Lite Isobar with a Tripp-Lite line conditioner. I've never had a problem with any of my digital scales since I started using the Tripp-Lite products. I have a Chargemaster and check weigh my charges with a tuned Ohaus beam scale. I use a Dandy Trickler for finishing up my powder charges. Many great options out there that will last a lifetime of reloading.

Looking for Leupold 8.5X25X50 scope with fine duplex or varmint hunter's reticle. VariXlll or VX3 30mm tube with target turrets. PM me with details.

TTT

PM answered.

Can you post a closer picture of butt plate? It looks odd.

I don't see a bolt release. Does it have one?

If you made no powder change the amount of unburned powder particles would radically increase in the 18 inch barrel to the point your chronograph would be reading the ejecta and not the actual bullet. The ejecta is moving much faster than the bullet. This is quite common and misinterpreted.

Wow! that has ouch written all over it! smokin deal!

Yavapai county and Mojave have declared themselves "second amendment sanctuaries". Maybe this should be a statewide effort to keep people like "Mini Mike" Bloomberg out! He wants a box to stand on during the debates, LOL!! He's a runt that will never go anywhere in the next election!!

Brunos has it stock.

Midway USA has them on sale at 33% off the 4.5X14 model.

The most copied action is the Remington 700. The are numerous companies making clones. Then you have companies like Pacific Tool & Gauge selling blue printed Remington action for $600. Bottom line when you finish blue printing a Remington it's still just a Remington action. If it's yours to keep then yeah it's worth keeping over a plain factory action. Don't get me wrong, I love Remington actions! But I also love my Stiller actions(Remington clone) my Stolle Panda actions(Remington clones with a sleeve), my Borden actions(Remington clones) . Great after market stuff too! All these are reasons why they won't be cheap to find in any condition.

Tikka has long throat so the Berger classics are going to shoot best from magazine length or less. RL 16 works very well in my 260 with the Berger 135. The 260 case is over a tenth of an inch longer than the 6.5 Creedmoor case so use that extra case capacity wisely. It can easily generate 100-150 fps over the Creed with the right powder. You're going to like the way that Tikka shoots! Enjoy

Yep. 7 twist should work.

Nice job that Lance did on exterior ballistics! A 20 MOA base will definitely work. I don't think your barrel length will work! Way too short to burn slow burning powders effectively and I will disagree with Lance on velocity. But if you do go with that barrel length of 20 inches watch out for the crack of the Sonic Boom! LoL!!The government may be calling to see what you're testing!! Especially now that we have a 6th Military force!! Also make sure you get the freebore worked out to accept the 131's. I did the 250 AI with 115g bullet many years ago and the minimum barrel length was 26". I did one with a 30 inch barrel and that worked very well. Not a hunting rifle of course. The only difference between 250AI and 25 Creedmoor is shoulder angle and body taper! I love the quarter bore! Let us know how it works out. I'm curious!