L Cazador

I see what you're trying to do. Are the primer pockets loose? If they are it may not be worth the salvage. Generally when the head diameter exceeds the factory spec by more than .001", the pockets will be loose. Even a body die or full length die is only going to size the head a minute amount and a collet die may size just enough. Are you sure this brass is worth all this effort?

You're measuring head diameter at the belt and that's too large for your chamber? How did you measure this, with a micrometer I hope? Was this new brass when you started and did you fireform in your chamber? Chamber length is measured from the head to the end of the neck. Headspace is measured from the head to the shoulder datum. Then there is also head diameter and on a belted cartridge it's belt diameter. I'm confused at to how a feeler guage is going to work in figuring chamber dimensions.

That was great article that Green did and a lot of experience demonstrated in doing so. And the barrel maker that buys the biggest lots of steel isss Krieger not Bartlein. Frank Green mentions blank quality!! The bigger the lot the more consistent the barrel steel is going to be. I don't buy anything but Krieger cut rifle barrels. Yes they have 5R barrels and yes I have bought them but they don't clean easier or achieve any higher velocity. One thing we experimented with years ago in benchrest competition was gain twist or rachet twist barrels. I found no validity to higher velocity for those barrels either. Like Frank says there is no explanation why some barrels shoot much faster or slower or clean easier than others.

In the 50 plus years that I have been shooting, I've shot 2,3,4,6, as well as the 10 micro groove barrels. The old adage that the less grooves the easier it was to clean and that barrel life would be lengthened has no validity. After I bought my bore scope back in the 90's, I confirmed that all was a bunch of hog wash. Stay with a 4 or 6 groove. If you're going to shoot 168's in the 7/08, i'd recommend a longer throat and a long action for that combo. Avoid seating bullets past the neck/shoulder junction so you can take full advantage of the entire case cap on the 08, you'll need it with the 168g. I did the 7/08 improved, 40 degree shoulder and it's a definite improvement over the standard 20 degree shoulder.

Any collet type die is basically going to size only the neck. Is your chamber minimum spec or standard? The best die for a custom chamber is a full length bushing die where you can control your shoulder bump and neck diameter. You should also know what the maximum length on your chamber is, so if you don't have a blue print of the reamer used to cut the chamber, you should use a chamber length guage and measure length. You could be over length which could cause a tight close on the bolt. Probably brass just needs to be bumped.

In Tucson see Water Tec, they have great service. Ed if you have a bad brine tank, it's very easy to replace. You can buy one on Amazon. Don't buy anything bigger than one that will handle a few bags. Too much salt sitting for a long time forms a salt bridge and will not let the salt drop down in the water. If you buy a brine tank, be sure it comes with a float and bottom screen.

yes sir, because your loads are just under max are a good reason to start at .010" off. Also if you're using new brass, it will generally be a few thousands under your chamber size. All the more reason to start at .010" off till your cases are fireformed. This process works for monolith(non-lead)bullets as well as jacketed lead bullets, no matter who makes them. Just keep in mind that monolith bullets require more twist than jacketed lead bullets, they are much longer and you are stabilizing length not weight!

It's best to always start at .005"-.010" off. Find the best powder primer combo and fireform your brass to your chamber. Then work the load in one tenth increments. In other words if it's 55 grains work the load in .5gr increments. One tenth is the minimum amount of powder it takes to make a change. After fireforming your brass and a load to work with, start work on seating depth in .005" increments both into and off the lands. This has worked for me for the 55 years I've been reloading for hunting and competition.

I have ordered dozens of reamers and bolts over the past 20 years from PT&G and I have not had any issues with them. Before you cancel, ask for Dave Kiff, he's the owner. He'll make it good.

Lance great job of covering all the basics to set up for some good ammo. One thing you didn't mention was neck thickness and neck thickness variations which can really spoil a lot of good brass prep. Did you check for this? By the way it's not unusual to see a difference of .020" of case headspace between new or factory brass and fired brass. I just did some Lapua 6.5 brass Creedmore and it was under by .010". That's why you must fireform first and then work up a load. All new brass and factory ammo is made to fit all firearms, that's why it's undersized.

I don't think there has been any concrete evidence that a fluted barrel will shoot any different from a non-fluted barrel. I did my own test years ago with a 6.5/284 1000 yard rifle. I used Kreiger barrels in heavy Varmint taper on a Bat action. Then there is the question of stress relief after a barrel has been fluted. To my knowledge only Broughton stress relieves their barrels after fluting. Other than weight reduction and maybe some improvement on quicker cooling, I have found no difference. This comes along with the question of canted rifling vs. square lands?

Nice rifle! What's your twist and freebore?

Measure the twist on your rifle with a cleaning rod. If it's a 14, which most Remingtons are, you'll have to stay with 50g lead bullets. The Barnes 55g is about as long as any of the 60g lead projectiles around so it probably won't stabilize in a 14 twist.

I'll take the brass if you can send it to me. I'll be glad to pay for shipping. That will probably run about $14 in a flat rate medium box, USPS. I'm in Tucson. Butch

Sounds like a nice rifle. You should always have a dealer that will receive for you before you bid. That's the usual SOP. There is a place on Gunbroker,"find a dealer",that gives several dealers in your zip code. Everybody has different charges and restrictions, so it's best to line yourself up with a dealer first. I've been doing business at Gunbroker now for over 40 years, great place!

You should consider that fluting a barrel should also include stress relief.

You're stabilizing length not weight. Copper bullets like the Barnes tend to be longer so a 12 twist may not stabilize such bullets in a given weight range. Contact the bullet manufacturer for the best twist on a given bullet design and weight. You can usually overspin a bullet and still get pretty good accuracy as in your 9 twist with 55 grain bullets.

Savage makes a better barrel and therefore a better rifle. I

If you have a synthetic stock you may have to add some weight to the butt to properly balance the rifle. The extra weight will also help reduce recoil. We're talking a few extra ounces here not pounds. Butler Creek makes a stretch rubber sling that grips your shoulder.

Well after trying them all, Sightron has about the worst possible customer service and also the least longevity and Vortex isn't much better. I'm talking tracking and consistency of adjustments, you have to hit what you're shooting at. What good is a lifetime guarantee when the product fails at the worst possible moment, right in the middle of that hunt of a lifetime or right at moment you're about to shoot that perfect score in the match of your lifetime. Pay the price and cry only once!

Sightron is garbage at any price right next to that brand that starts with a V and ends with an X. I hear the landfill is full of them, LOL! I don't understand spending good money on a custom gun and then even more on a hunting trip, only to have your optics fail when you need them most. If you can't afford a Leup or a Nightforce, save your money till you can.

Are you sure it's Hornady brass? I thought it was Norma or Nosler which is made by Norma. Use a tapered expander plug or you'll buckle the case. Redding and RCBS both make tapered expander. Expand to 308, fireform and then work up your load. Necking up usually ends up with brass being a little shorter. I'd check overall brass length when done. Hornady brass has not been very good of late. Maybe the Lazzeroni stuff will be more consistent.

Your 7mm case has stretched beyond the dimensions of your chamber, that is why it will not fit your chamber now. You'll need to restore the case to minimum dimensions by using a full length die. Careful die set up will help reduce any further stretching. You'll need a Hornady or Sinclair headspace guage to set the sizing die up properly. Measure the headspace as it is now and then bump the shoulder in 2 thousands intervals till it fits the chamber. Make a notation of this measurement for future reloading of this brass for this rifle. Once you've done this you will have a minimum of brass stretching or "brass movement" which is conducive to good accuracy. Use of a bushing die with a set of competition shell holders is the simplest way to go! Competition shell holders are in 2 thousands increments.

Did you try Brunos on Deer Valley?

My favorite load for my 1892 25/20 is 11g of Lil-Gun with Speer 75g flat point. I use Rem brass with Fed 205 match primers for 1980fps. Seat the bullet to the cannalure and start at 10g and proceed in .2 increments. Your rifle may not be able to handle this load, so caution is advised.