L Cazador

One big factor you're leaving out is how long is your magazine? Those ELDX bullets are very long and you're going to be taking up a lot of powder room depending on how deep you have to seat them. Use magnum primers only. These will get your velocity spreads down. Fireform your cases first, then just bump the shoulder back one or two thousands. Use a Hornady headspace guage to check this. Hornady book says 55g max for IMR4350 and 57g max for IMR4831, both about 3000fps. Reduce these charges by 10percent to start.

You have your seating die improperly set up. Back the seating die out and then screw the seating stem in. That way the bullet is completely seated before the crimp starts. You don't have to do it in two operations!!

The 140gr Nosler Accubond is a great bullet for elk. With that said, the 140gr. weight will be best out of the 7/08 for any big game.

Whether you go with a 20 or a 410, choose a shotgun with a modified choke and a load with #8 shot. There is little difference in recoil between a 20ga 7/8oz load or a 3/4oz 410 load, FYI. If you choose the 2 1/2oz. 410 load (which does have lower recoil, another important factor to consider is pellet count. For size #7 1/2 shot vs. #8, the count is about 50 pellets less per oz. for 7 1/2. I taught junior trap and skeet in my younger days and a 20ga with a modified choke and #9 shot was always the best choice 9 out of 10 times. I don't think you'll find much #9 shot but #8 is a good alternative.

The Ruger Precision is not so precise, LOL!! It's a Ruger!!

I think it's an excellent guide for someone just getting started on a long range project. While this is nothing new, I can't remember who had something similar back in the 90's?? I just can't imagine the clutter this could generate. What size is this?

I believe your summit press has a black bushing installed where you screw your die in. If you remove the bushing your Neil Jones die(probably made on 1 inch stock) should screw right in. If not contact Neil and he can make a bushing that will fit your die. Neil's number: 814-763-2769

Rumor is that it's made in the Phillipines, by the same folks that make that wonderful scope that starts with a V.

An appraisal with such a disparaging spread as $400-600 to $6000 does not sound like an accurate assessment of your firearm. But in defense of that info, it sounds like there was something lacking in the solicitation of that appraisal. If there is documentation that could provide an actual ownership and provenance that could make it worth $6000, it would be wise to include it in your endeavor to determine an accurate value for your firearm. Without any documents, you are left with identifying proof marks and remaining condition to determine a possible value. With all that said, the folks that quoted you that value were doing so to the best of their knowledge. "Man at Arms" magazine is one of the best sources for information regarding valuation of militaria. Contact Stuart Mowbray at: stuart@manatarmsbooks.com

Three things you should never say when selling a rifle is: dime size groups, shoot's in the 2's all day, and it has a bright shiny bore!! LOL!!

Pretty sure it came out at the Shot show. 24 Nosler coming soon too!

I've shot coyotes with most of the cartridges you mention. While the hottest 22 I shot them with was a 22/6mm improved, the 22 never convinced me of good solid kills even with the heaviest bullets. Understand that I probably shot some at some very incredible ranges. My thought nowadays is to call them in close enough so as not to miss and educate them and my favorite firearm is a shotgun with #4 buck for close in shots and an Olympic Arms AR with heavy barrel in 243 WSSM with a 10 twist that can take them out to 500 yards. My back up gun is a 700 Rem repeater bolt in 6X47 Lapua, and my long range pistol is a Rem XP100 custom in 6.5X47 Lapua. If I do take a long range shot, it's only after a patient wait for a close in shot. I didn't have that patience when I was younger!! Just about all the cartridges you mention are excellent for taking coyotes!

Lap the rings and bed the bases, there is no better way to go. Then use a plump bob to verify your reticle is straight up and down!

I see what you're trying to do. Are the primer pockets loose? If they are it may not be worth the salvage. Generally when the head diameter exceeds the factory spec by more than .001", the pockets will be loose. Even a body die or full length die is only going to size the head a minute amount and a collet die may size just enough. Are you sure this brass is worth all this effort?

You're measuring head diameter at the belt and that's too large for your chamber? How did you measure this, with a micrometer I hope? Was this new brass when you started and did you fireform in your chamber? Chamber length is measured from the head to the end of the neck. Headspace is measured from the head to the shoulder datum. Then there is also head diameter and on a belted cartridge it's belt diameter. I'm confused at to how a feeler guage is going to work in figuring chamber dimensions.

That was great article that Green did and a lot of experience demonstrated in doing so. And the barrel maker that buys the biggest lots of steel isss Krieger not Bartlein. Frank Green mentions blank quality!! The bigger the lot the more consistent the barrel steel is going to be. I don't buy anything but Krieger cut rifle barrels. Yes they have 5R barrels and yes I have bought them but they don't clean easier or achieve any higher velocity. One thing we experimented with years ago in benchrest competition was gain twist or rachet twist barrels. I found no validity to higher velocity for those barrels either. Like Frank says there is no explanation why some barrels shoot much faster or slower or clean easier than others.

In the 50 plus years that I have been shooting, I've shot 2,3,4,6, as well as the 10 micro groove barrels. The old adage that the less grooves the easier it was to clean and that barrel life would be lengthened has no validity. After I bought my bore scope back in the 90's, I confirmed that all was a bunch of hog wash. Stay with a 4 or 6 groove. If you're going to shoot 168's in the 7/08, i'd recommend a longer throat and a long action for that combo. Avoid seating bullets past the neck/shoulder junction so you can take full advantage of the entire case cap on the 08, you'll need it with the 168g. I did the 7/08 improved, 40 degree shoulder and it's a definite improvement over the standard 20 degree shoulder.

Any collet type die is basically going to size only the neck. Is your chamber minimum spec or standard? The best die for a custom chamber is a full length bushing die where you can control your shoulder bump and neck diameter. You should also know what the maximum length on your chamber is, so if you don't have a blue print of the reamer used to cut the chamber, you should use a chamber length guage and measure length. You could be over length which could cause a tight close on the bolt. Probably brass just needs to be bumped.

In Tucson see Water Tec, they have great service. Ed if you have a bad brine tank, it's very easy to replace. You can buy one on Amazon. Don't buy anything bigger than one that will handle a few bags. Too much salt sitting for a long time forms a salt bridge and will not let the salt drop down in the water. If you buy a brine tank, be sure it comes with a float and bottom screen.

yes sir, because your loads are just under max are a good reason to start at .010" off. Also if you're using new brass, it will generally be a few thousands under your chamber size. All the more reason to start at .010" off till your cases are fireformed. This process works for monolith(non-lead)bullets as well as jacketed lead bullets, no matter who makes them. Just keep in mind that monolith bullets require more twist than jacketed lead bullets, they are much longer and you are stabilizing length not weight!

It's best to always start at .005"-.010" off. Find the best powder primer combo and fireform your brass to your chamber. Then work the load in one tenth increments. In other words if it's 55 grains work the load in .5gr increments. One tenth is the minimum amount of powder it takes to make a change. After fireforming your brass and a load to work with, start work on seating depth in .005" increments both into and off the lands. This has worked for me for the 55 years I've been reloading for hunting and competition.

I have ordered dozens of reamers and bolts over the past 20 years from PT&G and I have not had any issues with them. Before you cancel, ask for Dave Kiff, he's the owner. He'll make it good.

I don't think there has been any concrete evidence that a fluted barrel will shoot any different from a non-fluted barrel. I did my own test years ago with a 6.5/284 1000 yard rifle. I used Kreiger barrels in heavy Varmint taper on a Bat action. Then there is the question of stress relief after a barrel has been fluted. To my knowledge only Broughton stress relieves their barrels after fluting. Other than weight reduction and maybe some improvement on quicker cooling, I have found no difference. This comes along with the question of canted rifling vs. square lands?