L Cazador

Your dilemma is that you have 20 inches of barrel. In order to get the speed up on 160-168g bullets you will need a powder on the faster side like H4895. H4895 is even more difficult to find than Varget. However both of these have temp stability coating where TAC does not. The new Staball has this feature but is a bit on the slower side. Benchmark works well in a 20 inch barrel and has temp stability coating. Slower burning powders will give you higher extreme spread in that 20 inch barrel. Food for thought.

That twist was designed for the heavy 153 grain bullets but it should perform admirably on the 143 bullets.

Different jacket thickness creates a slightly different ogive and bearing surface even though both are VLD. VLD bullets can be very finicky. Hence the reason for the Hybrid bullet success.

Your best chance finding the 404 Jefferies brass is Bertram brass/ Buffalo arms. The Powder Valley site scam has been around for a while.

I've used Starline brass in 222 and 243. I've reloaded cases 6 times and they're still shooting great. I'm sure I'll get 10-12 firings out of the 222 but with all the case stretching, I doubt I'll get that out of the 243. I anneal after fireforming so that may help with the stretching in the 243. Excellent brass!

You PM box is full. Is this unopened?

One mil adjustments?

Drill the seating die stem area that contacts the tip of the bullet out so you prevent any deformation of bullets.

I'll take it. See PM.

What Eddie says above. You will need the triangle black and white hazmat label on the package and you will need a UPS or Fed-Ex account to print a label. You will need to drop off package at hub or schedule pickup. Double box ammo because of weight. Make sure package holds together or they will not deliver or even return. I had this happen with Midway USA. If they ask at hub what's in package, just say 'small arms ammo non'hazardous'. Ground only.

Is the battery underneath?

I think if you state caliber, barrel length, and magazine capacity it might help. It's a great price.

Put a bit of lube on the bullet. I think you're in the lands and the bullet is being pulled out as you extract it. Best way is to remove the firing pin assembly and seat deeper till you feel no tension or the bolt handle drops fron weight. If you buy the Hornady gauge use lube on the bullet to get a better reading.

Yes you need to get a bit closer for some high definition shots! If you really want to sell it? I do those kind of pics when I don't want to let go of my stuff! I tell the wife I tried to sell it! LOL!!

Frankly the only way to anneal is with an AMP annealer everything else is just guesswork. Lapua brass is annealed and that should last for 4-5 firings unless you're doing long range work with your ammo.

I shot competition long range for many years and still shoot short range competition. I use a single kernel tuned beam scale and a FX120 digital scale to verify weights. For 600-1000yard competition I weigh every charge. For short range I use a Neil Jones powder measure and drop my charges. For long range yes a tenth of grain can mean the difference between shooting a 2 inch group or a 5 inch group. I've found that using the correct powder for that rifle can make a huge difference on great extreme spreads. Seating depth and the correct bullet seated at a depth that will produce great ES and great groups also impact accuracy and point of impact, by the way what is POA? With all that said I also sort bullets by weight and base to ogive. My advice is leave nothing on the table! Check out Eric Cortina's video on You Tube on this subject. To go with all this you need to be a good wind reader as well. No easy task. As an aside I use only custom made bullets for competition.

It all depends on condition, if it's all original, and caliber. Pre war 270 will run anywhere from 900-$2000 today. All pre war rifles had only two holes drilled and tapped on front of receive so if the receiver has a scope mounted it could be worth 50 % less.

This guy know's his guns!!

I was able to hit consistently out to 300 yards with the 25 grain but the 20 grain is no slouch out at 300 yards. No wind of course. H335 packs the case better and groups are easily in the .250" range. I also got great performance with H-4198 but you can't find that powder nowadays. Enjoy!

I shot 19.4 gr H335 at 4000 fps with CCI 450 with 20gr Zmax. That bullet is pretty feeble in the wind so I favored the 25 grain ither one evaporates prairie dogs unless the wind is blowing and forget it if it's raining and muddy, you'll never see your hits. It's tough on barrels. I smoked mine in 600 rounds. Too much powder capacity for that little bullet! The Hornet is the best case for the 17. You can always throttle it down.

Yup!

I'll take the Rockchucker press for $40. I'll take the 222 mag brass and 257 rob brass depending on price, you didn't list price for this. PM inbound.

Did you check Brownells? They had the RCBS kit on sale for $250. Press, scale, powder dispenser, loading blocks, etc.

I don't understand Hodgdon sending you something totally different than what is in their manual? Could your request have been slightly different?

There's no data for 195g in the Hodgdon manual. This from the 2023 manual, for the 180g Berger it's 74.8 to 79.6 grains maximum with H-1000. For the 175g Nosler with H1000 it's: 72.8 to 77.5 grains maximum. I would drop the 180 grain starting load by 10 % and work up for the 195 grain. Do yourself a favor and measure the head diameter of your brass so you can determine the maximum load for your rifle. Don't use anybody elses load or try to go by flattened primers etc. Head diameter should not exceed .0008" after fireform. Measure in front of extractor slot to one ten thousandths. On COAL( Cartridge Over All Length) start at magazine length with the starting load and back seating depth off from there. You can buy the new Hodgdon manual for $13, that's not expensive. Lastly you should always start load work with brass that has been fireformed in your chamber!