STOMP442

Why was velocity only measured with the 300 and drop with the 308? Why not both tests for each cartridge to compare results. Also how are you measuring bullet drop? Are you shooting a group and measuring to the center or only one shot? How accurate are these test rifles with the bullets in question? Are these rifles fired from a machine rest or is there a human element to be accounted for as well?

I recently purchased a ziess victory 1300 for $600 and it has been spectacular. Reflective or non reflective it will range 1300 yards. If you notice most range finders will claim 1300+ on reflective ranges and non reflective ranges will be about half that. This one will range anything you point it at and even further than 1300 yards. My farthest range on a rock has been 1643 yards. I was able to range deer this past year at 1260 with ease. I personally hate all the angle compensation crap and ballistics info in a range finder. Give me the range and let me do the rest. This one has some built in ballistic pre sets but gives you the ability to turn them off. The display is bright and very clear in any light. I have no complaints and it works great.

Well said lance I couldn't agree more. As far as sensitive goes I haven't found bergers to be all that hard to tune. I set mine 25 thou from the lands and do normal load work up.

I'm guessing BC numbers will be revised much lower once longer range testing is completed. For the BC to be that high with a bullet of that weight the form factor will have to be in the 0.77 range. Meaning that these bullets are roughly 23% more aerodynamic than the G7 standard projectile. The best match bullets with the highest BCs have form factors somewhere around 0.97-.98 the math is not working out for me on this.

I prefer the 115 berger. By far the best BC bullet available in 25 cal and excellent terminal performance.

I prefer a shilen # 4 or # 5 Contour 26" . They seem to give a great balance of weight and accuracy.

Another vote for the leupold vxII or Redfield. You could always get on eBay and pick up an old Redfield accu trac that would fit with the old school very nicely.

I keep saying the trick for bergers to work every time is to hit bone, especially in these big magnum cartridges and heavy bullets. This is what I try to do and haven't had a failure or animal run off yet.

Going to be a shoulder mount.

Thanks for all the kind words and yeah he's a pretty buck for sure. He's going to look good on the wall too.

Shoot was blast despite the weather thanks for the idea and the help getting it organized.

Not enough difference for me to tell a difference but a lot of that has to do with stock design, fitment and of course the quality and type of recoil pad.

Bergers work best when tuned for your rifle. If that HSM stuff shoots good in your rifle though there is not a better bullet made.

If you want to shoot light weight bullets as in 55-70 grains get a 22-250. If you don't care about pelts then either the 243 or creedmoor will work great as a dual purpose hunter. The creedmoor gets my vote as a 140gr bullets work equally well on coyotes to elk. The creed covers more ground than the others listed and recoil is very light for the performance you get.

Why not head to your local Walmart and pick one up. They are going for $377 right now at my local store.

I have quite a few take offs what caliber are you looking for?

Any reloading manual has instructions and how to get started in them but the Sierra manual is top notch and provides a bit more than most.

Ive seen lots of piggies in that area you should be fine.

I've used a 6.5-284 running a 140 Amax at 2840fps to take a deer cleanly at 1243 yards. 2800 is definitely doable with a standard 260 and the effective range is really up to the shooters ability. The 6.5 is much more effective than most give it credit for. Keep in mind brass is easily formed from any 308 based varient. The Lapua brass is definitely worth the money but you can make winchester or Remington 243 brass work just fine.

I guess I'm just different because I take care of my hammer and shovels too. There is a difference in using tools and abusing tools.

260 packs a lot more punch down range. If you get one you won't regret it.

So basically these were a bunch of guys that had way to much money for their own good and treated equipment like crap. I don't care who you are or how many animals you have killed with whatever caliber, there is no sense in treating a rifle that way. A rifle is the one thing a true hunter should value most as without it your pretty much screwed on your hunt. It blows my mind when people bring me rifles to work on and claim they don't shoot when they look like they have been dragged behind a truck for a week and full of fouling because they are either to dumb or lazy to take care of their equipment.

Given the fact you can go down to Walmart and pick up a brand new Remington 700 for under $400 makes a build pretty reasonable. Especially if you went with a remage system and kept the smith out of it.

Why is the cap a big deal? Takes all of two seconds to unscrew the cap and you can just leave the cap off if that's what you want to do. I like mine capped especially while hunting because you don't want to mistakenly turn the turret on a tree limb or backpack and be off zero.

Your scope already has turrets why not use them? I find a standard moa turret works great and you can always change loads or bullets without having to fork out cash for a new turret. Shoot your distances record you moa values at each range and your good to go. Same with windage if you prefer to dial, dial to whatever moa value your ballistics app says to and shoot. I don't like to dial windage, wind conditions change quickly and can vary greatly across canyons I prefer to hold off and with practice you can get to be pretty good about knowing where the bullet is going to hit. Works for me anyways.