STOMP442

I like a two piece on a hunting rifle especially if it has a blind magazine and you have to unload the rifle by cycling the bolt. Shouldn't need a 20 moa base on this rig at all especially only out to 600. I would suggest getting a set of the Burris signature zee rings that come with additional 10 moa inserts. That way you have the option of adding more if you need it.

The way to measure scope height as outlined in applied ballistics for long range shooting is this. Measure the dia of your scope bell and divide by two. Measure the dia of your barrel at the end of your scope bell and divide that number by two. Then measure the distance from the bottom of the bell to the top of the barrel and add them all together to get your scope height. Most scopes with 50mm objectives end up being at least 1.8 if not a bit more. That all depends on scope design and ring height.

168gr or heavier. I really like the 168gr berger H4831, H1000, Retumbo and Ramshot magnum should all give you good results.

H4350 is the go to powder. Start at 41 grains and work up.

Deer and pigs don't need a magnum. Standard .270 any of the 6.5s or the .25-06 would be just about perfect. Honestly if I were to have a magnum it would be one in .30 cal pushing the heaviest bullet possible to maximize potential. After all people get magnums to have better performance, just as well get it all.

Did hit data is exactly right.calculators are great for getting close but nothing beats field data. Looking at your set up I would guess your scope height to be at least 1.8 something. The actual BC of that bullet is going to be .470 or less as the actual litz tested BC of the 178 Amax has a BC of .469. These numbers will not change your drop chart much but the more accurate info going in will produce more accurate calcs coming out. Did you zero your rifle in the same position and set up you are shooting now? Sometimes adding a bi-pod can change things drastically and the position of your head a cheek weld is different when shooting prone vs off a bench which can also cause issues. Paralx could also be a culprit is your scope focused for that range? Lots of things to consider good luck and I hope you figure it out.

Since it has a burn rate similar to H4350 you can use start data for that and work up from there.

Have you tried using a different chronograph to verify readings?

Savage axis is the best bang for the buck. There is currently a rebate offer going on as well. The axis 2 also comes with the accutrigger. The nice thing about the savage is that you can start him small and change out the barrel to something bigger as he grows up.

Unfortunately this is a common problem for hornady. I have seen some 6.5 creedmoor loads that were so hot they were blowing primers and even causing case head seperations. Box claimed 42 grains of H4350 and when I pulled the bullets I measured 46+ grains of powder that was clearly not H4350. Powder charges were way over max and all over the place. From then on I have told everyone I know not to buy hornady ammo. My experience was not even with superformance ammo which by design is developed to push the limits. I would contact hornady and make them fix it.

I would try some H4350 and a high BC bullet like the berger 130gr classic hunter. With a BC of .497 it has a BC even higher than the 140vld offering and able to be launched at even higher velocities. I have a couple savages chambered in .270 with 22" barrels and 53 grains of H4350 gives me right at 3000 fps and half inch or better accuracy in both rifles. At 3000 fps you can hold 1000 ft lbs of energy out to 650-800 yards depending on your elevation.

I called in a few hogs out in unit 32 one morning. I was only able to get one out of the bunch but she was sure tasty.

You can get complete kits with everything you need to get started from any of the big name brands for around $300. Personally I prefer the Lyman deluxe kit as it comes with a digital scale and a couple little extras. Other than that all you need to buy is die sets and components.

Good luck I hunted 29 last year on a left over and hiked my tail off and glassed my eyes out to only find does by the hundreds at hunts end. 17-25 does a day lots of turkeys and that's about it.

Switch to the burris signature zee rings and use the 10 moa inserts. Put a plus 10 on the bottom rear ring and a minus 10 on the front bottom ring and that should get you another 20 moa.

Poi can change when adding a bibod vs shooting off of a bench or pack. Always a good idea to practice with whatever set up you want to use when out in the field. Putting a bipod on induces stress at a different point on the stock vs a sand bag or rest and can change where you put your cheek on the stock for comfort and the same can be said for shooting prone or kneeling. Shooting is all about consistency and why bench rest shooters go to great extents to make sure the rifle and their cheek weld is the same for each shot. So yeah adding a bipod can cause a change and it may not lots of variables come into play just have to shoot and practice to see.

I use the blackhawk 6"-9" from Walmart with the tilt feature. Half the price of a Harris and works just as good. Works perfectly when shooting from the prone position.

Is your rifle currently sighted in? If so all you need to do is install the new turret so that the zero lines up with the hash mark on the scope. When the turret reads zero you should be hitting your target at what ever range you sighted your rifle into.

If your rifle is zeroed now simply hold your dial so that it does not spin while removing the screw. Place your new turret on the scope with the zero lined up correctly with the line on the scope. Tighten the screw while holding onto the turret so that it does not spin and your done. Really simple.

Mine gets signed and put in my wallet as soon as it gets out of the mail box. I never go anywhere without my wallet so I know I always have it. The 6P rule gentlemen learn it,live it.

The lack of funds in my wallet is my only deterrent. beautiful rifle good luck with the sale.

Use that data. Shouldn't be a problem.

Before you get to involved I would recommend a good bullet comparator to measure to the ogive rather than the tip of the bullet. The hex nut comparator from Brownells works great and is cheap too. The ogive is the most consistent part of the bullet to measure to and is the part that actually engages the rifleing. Changing the seating depth can have some considerable change on your loads. I generally start .025" off the lands and adjust in .005" increments closer to the lands if needed. The sweet spot for me is generally between .020"-.025" off the lands.

Given that rifle has a 12 twist a heavier bullet may work better. I have a model 12 and an axis that both shoot the 69gr Sierra Match kings into one little hole. 35 - 36gr of Reloader 17 pushed them right around 3350fps and seemed to be the sweet spot. Both rifles would hold half moa out to 800 yards. I know sierra recommends a 10 twist but the 12 seems to work just fine.

Yeah I went and checked walmart right after you told me about them lex and all they had was the same ol model 110s for $467 and the clerk at the counter wasn't the usual one and had no clue about any sale.