Becker

No need for the salt. They are so paper thin it doesn't accomplish anything other than drying them out faster, and possibly making them more brittle.

Sherman's got the best technique I know!

This is a very interesting topic to me. There have been a few discussions on it before. Elk and Mule deer seem to be really affected for antler size depending on the moisture. I am not that into elk so I don't know much about them. They grow sooo much antler though I think they are the most affected. Mule Deer I have some more experience with. It always seems like on super wet years everyone expects them to grow huge and they don't do that much different then a normal wet year. It REALLY DOES SEEM to have something to do with the plants and how they distribute the nutrients. I have had many conversations about it this with Matt Shimberg from A3 Trophy Hunts and he has had just as much discussion with people all over the US. Particularly info that he passed on to me was from Jack Brittingham, and his ranches in Texas. With out going way into detail Jack seemed to notice the same. That really really wet years the deer didn't seem to grow as big of antlers as was expected. You would think tons of food, BIG ANTLERS. On more consistent average years he noticed the best antler growth. With Coues deer I haven't noticed that it makes a huge difference in antler size but more so affects antler DENSITY. On really dry years their antlers almost seem like balsa wood. I also notice lots of broken antlers on dry years. On wet years the antlers are really dense and heavy and we don't see as many deer with broken antlers. My 2 cents in a nutshell!

Google wont perform a search for Chuck Norris, Google knows you don't find Chuck Norris, HE FINDS YOU!!!

Can't wait!!! Should be an awesome evening. We (Arizona Wildlife Designs) will be there with some mounts for display. Come by and say hello!!!

I had a buddy that had bad experience with Integrity Diesel

I use Jeremy Ford at Quality Lube at Ina and thorny dale. Has always treated me right. I have a dodge though but I am sure he could help you out. Not cheap but always uses good warranties parts. They have all the big rock crawlers an stuff parked out front all the time.

That's awesome!!!! I still remember waiting at the film developer to get 24 pictures developed after driving for hours wondering what you got pictures of when motion cams first came out!!! Hahaha those were the frustrating days to say the least!!!

The more I think about, the more I think we have been doing it right with using the low setting. The high setting would make it more sensitive so that slight changes in the ambient hot air vs animals will be detected and pictures taken. I jut hate having rely on cheap tape when we already pay for a pretty expensive device. Hahaha

Here's the manual

Does the AC and heater work?

I kinda wish they would make one with full adjustment. I have some homebuilt ones that actually have a dial on the sensitivity. I can get them set to only take pictures of bigger animals and cut out birds, rabbits, etc. Or visa versa and get pictures of mice and bugs

Yes Amanda, During the day are when the cams take tons of photos. Nights are fine. You can watch the shadows go buy during the day on some when panning fast through the pics HAHAHA. It doesn't seem to matter where I have them. I have some up high in Elk country ponderosa pines that still take photos all day. 75 degree high temps. Seems to me like there is some play in which camera I set out. Some are more sensitive then others But going through the manual it says try the HIGH setting in warmer climates so was wondering if anyone has done so. I will set a few out in my yard and try it out.

Mule Deer Bucks tend to water at night. They are pretty nocturnal and will rarely water during the day. Right at first light and right at dark will be your best odds. Motion cams will give you a good idea of what to expect. If you have pictures of them only at night sitting water will most likely be a mistake. If you get a few pictures of the buck you are after when its light odds are slightly better. But it might take a solid week or two/ OR MORE to catch him at the water in shooting light. The day you don't show up will be the day he comes in when you could have shot him;) Generally speaking if there isn't a lot of water sources available they will hit the same one. Might only be every fourth or fifth day though. They don't have to drink every day. If you do your homework you will see a pattern for when they come in to water, and can go from there. Your other option would be to figure out where they like to feed and bed, and try to set up in between the water and bedding areas to try and catch them in the day. Mule Deer will travel several miles to water witch can make it very hard. Good LUCK!!!

As Old Pete from PSE says, "Practice doesn't make perfect, Perfect practice makes perfect." Or something to that effect. What that really means is that you should practice but when you do make sure you are making it GOOD Practice. Good form, fallow through, etc. When you can't do that anymore time to rest or stop for the day. Sounds to me like you went way over kill into your shooting for the first go around. One day isn't going to mean that you are all back in tune. Shooting bows well takes a lot of dedication. Muscle memory or conditioning will make you a better shooter in the end and are key to good shooting. Basically you dont have to think about anchor point and lining up the peep and all that. It just happens. You cant achieve that in one day. What generally happens is that over time lots of little things happen that are not generally noticed unless you shoot frequently. Small changes in your form, the bow string stretches, You get more comfortable holding your bow drawn, etc. All this ends up changing your Point of Impact slightly. Probably not a deal breaker at close range but it will be at farther distance. A good example is if you have a lot of down time in between shooting, say a couple months, and you pick the bow up and start shooting, and for whatever reason say your are shooting a little left and low. Well it was sighted in before, what changed??? YOU. The bow didn't. The more shooting you can do, and not in one day but spread out over multiple days the better. You don't have to go to the range and shoot 100 times every time. Figure out what your comfort zone is and start building from there. When you start it might be 10 it might be 100. BUT when you start feeling fatigue give it up, because thats when you will start developing bad habits. The next time move it up a couple shots, and so on, until you are where you want to be. I haven't shot in a long time and just acquired a new bow. My wife and I went out on Sunday and I was a wreck. After about five shots I was wiggly and jiggly already. I got my 20 yard pin close but couldn't hold anything together. There was no point in my trying to shoot a tight group at that point. Wasn't going to happen. I shot about ten more times just concentrating on form, and basics, not caring where I was hitting and called it a day. Will be back out tonight to give it another go around. Hoping to get a few more than 5 good shots in, then step up on shooting more for form and basics training, then quit. Its always fun to be able to hit at what your aiming at, but when you are getting back into the swing don't make that a priority. Practice good form and the basics and you will notice that groups and shooting what you are aiming at will fall into place. Hope I didn't insult what you already know but thats my 2 cents on practicing. As far as the color of pins......I am not color blind or anything but I also have a hard time with red pins as well. Not sure why so I change them out. I prefer greens and blues. I have an adjustable sight with only three pins. Having the three pins is good for close range, pins are set at 20green 30blue and 40green again, and then I move the sight for farther distances using my center blue pin when adjusting. Gives me a little closer and further option having the two green pins bracket the blue incase the animal comes closer or goes farther. Just my set up that works for me

Since this is a Covert thread I figured I would ask all the covert fans a quick question. I have always thought that the sensitivity levels on the cameras, Low, Normal, and High, were just that. Low sensitivity means the camera will be less sensitive and take less pictures, high the opposite. So I have been having my cameras set on low. However I get tons of day pictures with nothing in them. I was reading through the manuals last night, (DUH), and it says that the low mode should be used in cooler environments, and the high mode should be used in warmer environments, in order to not get as many unwanted pictures. Apparently I have been setting them up backwards and should be using them with sensitivity on HIGH option????? Am I getting this correct??? Figured I would ask since I know a lot of you guys use them.

^^^^ hahaha captainobvious you are thinking poodle. Need to check your dog knowledge. A pudelpointer is very similar to a german and Wirehair pointer.

Double double drop tines!!!! That's a cool find Josh!!!

^^^^^hahahaha. Never thought of that before!!! LMAO

2nd for John. Great guy. Could not be happier with his services!!!

Uh oh.........should have went with us I was up there for a lot of the early season.

Jim, when we going to get to see some footage??????

Couezilla!!!!!!!!!!!!

I stick with the basic MOA hatch marks on my turrets simply for the reasons mentioned above (Temps and Elevation changes). Its easy enough to print out reference cards based on the situations you will be hunting in and adapt. Or simply having the G7 range finder It really depends on how far you want to shoot and how many places you plan to take the gun to hunt. A custom turret WILL limit you if thats all you plan to use. EG theres a deer at 523 yards, dial up the scope and shoot. If you are up on calculating all the factors you should be able to compensate. It seems to me that you are wanting to put together a ballistics profile for your gun??? I don't know you and don't want to insult you in anyway so if you already know everything I am going to type here I apologize but here is my 2 cents. If you are serious about your guns ballistics I would recommend one tool to buy. A good Kestrel!!! It will measure your wind speeds, elevation, temperature, barometric pressure. Everything you will need to get the exact ballistics profile put together for your gun. As far as determining your basic factors (muzzle velocities, etc. for drop compensation) I find it best to back calculate. Like you said there is lots of info out there but knowing what exactly your gun is doing is best. The easiest way I know to do that without having all the fancy chronographs and what not is to simply zero your gun at your desired distance (100,200,or 300) then go shoot the farthest distance possible (800 to 1000 yards). Figure out your drop. With turrets its fairly easy, you can get really close with available information and then really dial in for your gun for that long distance. Then use any basic ballistics program and make it match what your gun is shooting because you NOW KNOW what the gun does. Back calculating ALWAYS provides more accurate results. I think you'll be surprised at the difference of say zeroing then shooting 500 yards, then extrapolating that to 1000 vs back calculating everything from that 1000 yards. When using the ballistics program use the real time information from when you were shooting (from your KESTREL). The temps when you were shooting and elevation etc. All that is easy to do. Once you get the info all dialed in you should have an exact profile for your gun. Then you can mess around with the temp and elevation settings on the program and watch what happens. If you are really into having that custom turret you should be able to use the program now and figure out what the best average would be for your desired hunting situations!

Smaller sized lion.