rcdinaz

Thanks for all of the feedback! I was under the impression the 260 and was still a bit on the long side for cycling the 140's smoothly? Really that was the main reason for considering the other two. Although I have read of quite a few getting pretty close with their Creedmoor MV's to the 260 numbers. Of course I am sure that is pushing it on the pressure side. If the 260 will cycle rounds as a hunting rifle that sounds like the answer followed by the Creedmoor. My new opinion on brass is the Nosler stuff is the best thing going. I have always preached Lapua but after loading 2 rifles with the Nosler that stuff is fantastic. It comes completely finished, flash hole, case mouth, primer pockets etc. A box full of cases that come ready to load and are almost perfectly matched is worth some extra $ in my opinion.

NEF Single shot .20 gauge! My dad bought me one to go dove hunting when I was around 10. I couldn't hit notin'! He said "let me shoot it" and realized those little guns kick like a mule and told me to put it in the truck we would share a gun. No one has ever shot it since. I have been really luck so far with what I have purchased.

You could always go with Burris Signature rings which are self centering (with in reason). The bases are cheap two but after spending a good chunk on your scope I would get a 1pc base. You have a scope with a 1" tube so that part is easy enough. You can actually get a dowel (Ace, Home Depot) or pc of bar stock from the scrap bin at a metal supplier and line the rings up on your own. They make a tool for this and it is really nice to have but not necessary if this is a one time thing for you. You were already on Midway so this would make it easy: EGW Base: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/434640/egw-1-piece-picatinny-style-base-remington-700-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding Make sure you by the base for your action long or short, otherwise you will spend 30 minutes or more trying to figure out why the @$#! holes don't line up. Rings: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1548661544/burris-1-signature-zee-weaver-style-rings?cm_vc=ProductFinding Now level the scope, all you need is a small level to set on the top scope cap. FYI... your iPhone or Android have a very good level in them and the cases are machined and square, the apps are free. So no excuse, but investing in a level is a good idea anyway. A Wheeler kit costs $15 on Amazon, you need it anyway if you ever have to re-zero, buy a new scope, etc so don't be cheap with your $900 scope. Directions on leveling: http://www.shootingillustrated.com/articles/2013/7/19/leveling-riflescopes/ Check your level with your eye using a plumb bob, make sure it has not moved when you tighten everything down. DO NOT crank it like the Hulk or you may bend, dent, your new scope. There are torque specs look them up not a good idea to take someones advice on torque, if you don't have a torque wrench then buy one or borrow one. You should be using one on the bases as well. You can literally do this in 15-20 minutes and you will forever know how it is done and have the ability to make a change in the field or help out a buddy. For $100 you can buy everything you need base, rings, wrench, level (well the wrench may put you over a little). Good luck! Gitter' Done!

Nice!

Yes, Industrial metal supply has a stand in the middle of the building with AR500 plate. They even have a finished target that is a big pink pig, stand and all.

I will take the ADI not sure what part of the valley you are in. Thanks Rich!

I will take the inclinometer if it has the mount?

The last one I did for a 7 Rem Mag I had to bump the Velocity up 70 FPS. from the chronograph readings. I can't recall exactly now but I think mine was 40fps which put it back on course for 500 yds & 700 yds. I have never touched it since the day I made those changes and it has hit its target ever since.

I have an Mc on my custom 7mm, and a couple of HS Precisions. I would like a Manners or a Mc in the carbon fiber ultralight. I have a laminated Boyd's on the 7mm Dakota but it sure is heavy. I have had too many things to spend money on the last few years but I need to get a couple of half finished gun projects done in the next year. Then I am going to finally do a 338 and stop talking about it.

okay I checked it out, looks like it may be awhile before they get something I could use. 700SA with a varmint contour Hart barrel. Looked at Manners as well, they get expensive quick when you fill out the order form. $1000

Goatsie do you know when they are going to start production? What actions will they mfg for?

LOL! Thanks for the laugh! Save yourself $400 or so, buy you a used xd-40, 9 or 45 or Glock 22/23 and call it a day My xd has seen some serious carry time, been refinished twice and still shoots like a house'a fire! I never jump in my truck to go into the woods with out it! I have settled on an XD or an M&P probably in 40 for my next purchase. I really like the feel of the XD it fit my hand better than the Glock.

Shooter allows you to load in your own parameters as well as using local updates if you have a signal for baro, alt, temp, etc. It will adjust for coriolis and spin drift. You can then tweak the muzzle velocity, POI, and drop at certain distances to customize bullet flight. Once in the field it has a built in inclinometer and dial for wind direction and speed. It sounds daunting but is pretty straight forward, then you can print a drop chart to put on your gun as a backup to using the app. You can download via email the info and go from Android to iOS as well. iStrelok is very straight forward and works with your scopes reticle, factory ammo, and show you where to aim but in my opinion is probably best used inside of 500yds. I keep it on my phone to teach the kids about the reticle and help my buddies know what their holdovers are. I looked at a bunch of other but it has been a few years and I know there are a couple of other good programs as well. Give yourself a weekend to mess with any of them and learn the features. A little studying and patience in the beginning will make things pretty easy in the field. Once you get a load set and stick to it with your gun it will always be there ready to go. My go to rifle is dialed in on shooter and has now killed 5 coues, 3 muleys, and a bear in the last 3 years taken by 5 different hunters 250yds - 550yds all one and done. Killed some ferocious iron and rocks out to 1K also.

Shooter! Strelok is good for fatory ammo and reticle hold overs

I agree completely for all the reasons you gave I have just been lazy lately. The Ruger P89 is heavy, the Kimber is also and too nice bang around. I keep saying I am going to get a concealed carry/pack gun just need to do it. I shot my lion with a scoped rifle at about 15 yards. It scared the snot out of me since it was about 20 feet like yours when it showed up, seemed more like 5. I was using a hand call and never heard it coming and then took a minute to even register what was staring at me. Fortunately it finally walked of a few feet so I could shoot it in the back like a man.

That is not exactly accurate. (pun intended) Coriolis is pretty complicated when it comes to figuring exact displacement of a shot. For example... it has more of an effect near the equator than it would near a pole (North or South), a shot directly north or south will print substantially more movement then one fired directly east or west. Spin drift is more of a constant, but can change with altitude/air density. I feel when speaking about the vast majority of "long range shooters" .3 MOA deviation at ranges of or exceeding 1000 yds would be EXTREMELY hard to pin down to one culprit or eliminate. An even slightly canted scope or rifle could easily be responsible for 1/2 MOA deviation, not to mention the multitude of other factors like wind, mirage, air density, spin drift, etc, or a loose nut behind the trigger. If a guy controls what he can, and coriolis was the only thing unaccounted for then he will likely hit close enough in any hunting situation. I watch lots of long range hunting shots being made (youtube, DVDs, and TV) where coriolis is the least of the guys worries. I guess what I am trying to say is if you do your due diligence at the range and at the loading bench, coriolis will not effect anything but serious extreme range shooting. BIGBROWNS, Thanks for posting. I hope you get that last little bit worked out and put the hammer on a bear! Good stuff! Not aimed at this conversation or BB but I see trigger pull and rifle cant as the main culprits when I am out with some of the impatient buddies I shoot with. Of course I avoid saying that so as not to get them all spun up questioning their manhood. Also, these are not typically guys shooting over 500 yards. I use the shooter app and turn on spin drift and coriolis.

I tried the fawn distress this season after seeing some spotted twins. Of course the two knuckle heads I was with blew it about 15 minutes in anyway. One couldn't take the bugs anymore and the other got a butt cramp and had to get up and walk around. Needless to say next time they get to watch from 500 yds.

This is how I roll but rarely carry a side arm because I am wuss and don't like the extra weight... gotta fix that! I also rarely have a round chambered unless the magic is about to happen!

All the reviews seem to be pretty positive! http://www.fieldandstream.com/blogs/gun-nuts/2013/11/super-spotter-nightforce-ts-82 http://www.snipercentral.com/nightforce-ts-82-20-70x82mm-hd-spotting-scope-2/ http://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/nightforce-ts82-review-1.php Wish I knew where they made them in the Czech Republic I was there once already this year.

okay, thanks!

I am in Chandler and will take it. I should be able to meet up by this weekend, let me know what works. Rich

Good process especially for the larger stick powders. I found that when I am using the Ramshot, ball powders I don't have the issue I get on a small percentage of the stick powders like a Retumbo. My go to gun now pretty much only eats one load using RS Magnum which makes things a whole lot easier. I like the second step especially when working up new loads and that special box of 50 rounds just for killing critters. For long range target work (not setting ballistics charts or dev work) I am no longer willing to go through all the extras I used to do. I still do the final ogive check on the seating even with a micrometer seating die foe VLD bullets, can't get over that one. All of this in addition to standard prep work gets very tiresome for killing iron: Weigh cases, weigh bullets, check ogive, meplat trimming, double check powder weight, final adjustment based on ogive measurement for bullet seating... etc

What a great little bass machine!

This! Buy the charge master and be done with, you can setup all your loads in memory and the electronic dispenser saves a ton of time.

I have the Leupold ER/T with the Horus 37 reticle, it looks just like your picture. The FF plane scope is awesome and the reticle has its uses but I still dial if I have time. If you have a follow-up shot then it is invaluable after a little practice.