rcdinaz

7mm RM with 168gr Nosler Long Range Accutip over Ramshot Magnum... this load in my stiller rifle has pretty much become my go to for everything becuase I just have so much confidence out to some pretty long ranges that it will knock 'em dead. Other choices would be 7mm Dakota or 300 RUM.

The materials they use are very good and I have been using their stuff since they started. The owner was one of the originla Sitka partners so he really know what he is doing regarding quality products. For us AZ guys their warm weather pants are the best I have tried. I do have a few gripes though. Yes they seem to have stocking problems, but my biggest issue was that the model was to cut costs so the price points were far better than Sitka and some of the other premium brands. I don't really see the savings or I would have twice as much of their gear. With some of the new options on some close to comparable products the price points are much better. Even Under Armour is generally less and I can try it on and return it at the store.

All good advice! Check the crown and throat as well for any nicks. You really can't check the bore too well without a scope or seeing how it shoots. Take a bright flashlight with you or you can't see nothing... Take a friend so you don't miss something due to your excitement about getting a rifle, works well for buying a car. Good luck!

They are all pretty good. I think spending money on good die sets for rifle reloading is more important along with setting your loads up correctly. You can get all the info you need off the web. I recommend you also buy Shawn Carlock's DVD on long range reloading. He builds rifles, hunts, and teaches long range shooting, lots of good info.

Federal Premium uses a Sierra Game King which is the hunting bullet version of their match bullet. Also try the HSM 168gr loads with Berger VLD's, or Remington Hog Hammer with Barnes TSX bullets. None of those are ballistic tips so they may get you what you want for a hunting bullet.

Hodgdon shows 80gr - 86gr on the STW. Don't you have about the same capacity on the LRM? Looks like you should be able to get about the same velocity as the Retumbo maybe a little less. On the LRH site it seems like it was a love/hate for this powder with the 7mm RUM. If it works it seems like a good choice full cases with very stable powder. I personally quit using retumbo in most guns it was just not as stable as H1000. I don't know how many guys test their loads in the summer heat and then in the cold at altitude but when I went through those conditions with the 7mm Dakota, 300 RUM, and 7mm RM I had a lot of variance with Retumbo and very little with H1000. my $0.02...

Anybody compared the ED to the HD's? Just curious if the $200 is worth it.

I just use my light jackets over an ultra-light down jacket. The Down rolls up the size of a softball and weighs nothing. Kuiu has one in waterproof down now, but I wear a mountain hardware one that weighs almost nothing.

I tend to agree that for a very good barrel it probably doesn't matter much. I certainly haven't seen much in the way of differences. I have done full break-in cleaning after every shot through the first ten, then after every five, etc. This was on my two custom guns as it was recommended and for the money I was not going to skip it. This last custom barrel in 6.5 I was in a time crunch so I just shot it when I could and cleaned it after the first box. It shoots great... I am not convinced there is any real science over the long term, maybe there is. Now for something like the Tubbs System there seems to be a lot of reasons the system works for a barrel not already shooting very well..

The Zeiss is a great scope. You can always run iStrelok and tape he reticle on the stock with the distances cranked all the way up. If you want to go the way of turrets and learn how to use them then the Swaro is out although I really like the system they have but it gets pricey. Check out the Zeiss with the turrets or Sightron. A lot of other good options but both of these are lighter than most of the others. i looked at a bunch of them for my daughter so I am going through the same exercise .

Good job!

Good luck filling that tag!

The walkstool is awesome!

Won't playing with those make you go blind?

Things you need: Altimeter - If you have a GPS or Phone you have this. A lot of inexpensive watches also have this feature. Inclinometer - For determining shot angle, again your phone can do this or you can mount one on your rifle Anemometer - Wind is more difficult than the drop. Once you use it a lot you get a pretty good idea of what a 5, 10, or 15 mph wind is like. Range Finder - I am sure everyone has this Shooter - The app when set right will do everything but range and measure the wind. It will adjust for all atmospheric conditions, it does have an inclinometer, spin drift, coriolis, and for wind both direction and speed can be set very simply. If you are worried about a cell signal set everything at the closest signal you can find then make any tweaks using the other tools mentioned before you start your hunt in the morning. I also print off a chart for the conditions I expect and tape it to the rifle stock. My experience is out to 400-500 yds the calculations change very little even with altitude, humidity, and temp changes. Incline and wind are the big ones that will make you miss. This sounds like a lot but once you get your routine down it takes 5 minutes or less.

I believe most varmint loads are designed exactly the opposite way. One hole and dump all the energy so there is no exit hole. Is there a reason to punch a hole through them? Just smaller holes left in the pelt?

What a great looking buck!

yes you are correct drag has a big effect. Now that they put the numbers on almost every box of ammo/bullets I assume everyone has access to the BC. I just wasn't sure what problem the OP was trying to solve. There may be something specific but I think just about every ballistic app out there can give the answer at a specific distance to a pretty accurate level.

I was going to buy one, they are awesome, built like a tank. I ended up spending the money on other stuff and have lived fine with my Harris. But I will break down and eventually get one. If you have the funds you only have to buy one and you can use it on all your guns.

If you need a multipurpose gun it is really hard to beat a .243. If you have the $ for a specific gun for yotes then the .204 or 22-250 maybe that hot rod .17 but I have no experience with that one.

I keep looking and laughing more! Sorry that sucks!

Wow! Looks like the antlers are on backwards! No I think that is the super-duper sneak pose ... rare and tough to master.

Yes! Most of the programs are pretty easy to tweak as you mentioned. So far my Chrony has been very close and I give it the benefit of the doubt that I may not adjust correctly for MV vs Velocity where I set up the Chrony.

I don't think we are getting the question? If you have bullet weight and muzzle velocity then you know the velocity and energy for a given distance. Gravity is a constant so velocity changes a consistent rate. Energy is based on mass and velocity... what part is missing that you need...

Yes, it is on all of the tables and there are many calculators online... or just download shooter on your phone and enter your info so you don't have to calculate the velocity at the estimated distance you are shooting. Energy = .5 * weight * velocity^2 / 7000 / 32.175 or Energy = weight * velocity^2 / 450450 taken from here: http://www.tresterscustomguns.com/calcnrg.html weight is bullet weigh tin grains.