rcdinaz

regan and first are right that seems to be the best (only) solution. Photobucket, Shutterfly, MegaCloud, DropBox and a few others all have apps to do this.

They both have angle compensation, temp, and baro readings. The new version for the U.S. market "B" will now give adjustments based on MOA if you program it to do so.

I think those are from a caribou, you better check!

You have a longer shopping list than you have gift cards If you are upgrading optics I still say buy the one thing you want most pay even if it hurts but get new tools you will be happy with forever. I made my first Swaro purchase +10 years ago for a pair of 10x42's for ~$700 and thought I might need psychiatric help. I could sell them for more than I paid for them after I get them back from being serviced. My point is optics are the one thing we use in hunting that have not gotten cheaper in the last decade and if you buy top of the line they will hold their value, middle & low end will be worth half of what you pay when you get home.

I have been using mine on the site since i joined the problem is your iPad does not have a directory that will allow you to post from it. The issue is not the website it is a limitation of the iPad. I have not tried to do it from the card reader or searched for another way. If I figure something out I will post it. Someone else may have already found a way...

I leave my boots on as well! I have used the felt pcs but they are a pain and I snagged them on stuff. I figured I was better off with one less thing to worry about. I may play with the idea of a homemade version and see if I can make them work, cheap project.

yeah, july and aug are horrible in the desert! If you have the time to drive up north you will find them a lot more active. I ran into 6 dogs a couple of weeks ago while out N of Show Low. 2 were following antelope, 3 were sneaking around a small herd of elk, and one was messing around in a wash I think chasing mice. I took out one of the ones messing with the elk because there were calves in the group, would have had two but they ran right at me and I had the scope dialed all the way up. I have never had a day where I have seen that many yotes and all active roaming around mid day.

I have used most brands and i am not sure there is a best brand although some formulas may last longer which may be what is improtant. For last few years i used the Dead Down Wind kit as well. When I used to varmint hunt a lot I found out what you do with your clothes and gear is just as important. I would wash my clothes in unscented detergent, you dont have to spend extra on the specialty stuff they have it at the grocery store. I would then keep my clothes in a plastic tote, sometimes throw in a juniper or creosote branch. I was also pretty fanatical about keeping my boots clean and spraying down my other gear a couple times during the day. Seemed to make a lot more of a difference with coyotes than any other game.

Smart wool, Lorpen, Under Armour, I use different ones for different things mostly based on how heavy weight the wool is. I use the UA for warm weather walking but overall like the Smart Wool brand the best. What I have learned is changing your socks after a hard hike or half way through the day will save your feet. I used to do the liners but prefer this method now. Really good boots that fit make a huge difference as well.

You should be able to get by without if you have a smart phone or an ACI on your rifle. The inclonometer in and Android or iPhone work amazingly well, quick, and are easy to read. If you are using a ballsitic program in your phone it will even make the changes to your eleveation in the outpur for you. That is not to say it would not be great to have in your LRF or binos!

Nice! Good shooting...

The Vortex new is about $500 and you can get a used Leica or Swaro for 600-700. I would check eBay, this site and others and try and eek out a Swaro or Leica otherwise I think you will wish you waited. If you compare them side by side the glass and the working distances are quite different. I have the Nikon, an ARC 1000, and a Swaro my buddy has 2 different Leica's, now I can barely stand to use the ARC anymore and have not looked through the Nikon in years. my $0.02

Rhino, I took a look at shooter and would think you would have a bit more energy than 1200 ft-lbs (~ 1,300). Not sure what you are getting in MV but I would guess at least 3,100? I used to get +3,200 out of the Nosler Accu-bond I shot my sheep with, now I pretty much only shoot the Berger HVLD's. Anyway I think the conventional wisdom/myth/thinking is about 1,500 for elk which should take you to about 700yds. However I would agree with everyone else that it is about shot placement. My dad used to shoot Javi's with a .22 a very long time ago when he was a kid which I can't even imagine anyone would attempt, of course no one was around then to tell him it wouldn't work so he did not know any better. You have an awesome hunt! I have a place in Pinetop and we always see plenty of bulls throughout the year. Don't ignore 3A unless you already know what your after in C, 3A and the N part of C are the areas that you may need the longer range you are talking about, most of C is pretty tight.

32 both Nov hunts. Our hunt is more of a friends and family outing as much as a hunt. I hunt hard but half the group stays in the areas they are familiar. Everyone gets drawn which is what is important.

I am using the same one now as well from Apple. I did learn you have to have the card formatted in FAT32 and the root folder for the pics needs to be DCIM. If you load the card into a camera it will most likely do this on its own but if you simply drop a bunch of pics on the card the iPad (at least mine) will not recognize them.

Nope you are right! I am getting close to going after a mulie instead of chasing coues all season. Actually still after the Coues but my kids are getting old enough to hunt so I will start doing both!

I just bought 3 from Target today. Lexar, 8GB, Platinum II SDHC. For some reason they are $9.99 and it was a rare occasion that they beat the web prices. When I used to fill them up they were the old cards 1GB I think on my Moultrie a lot of pictures were of the wind, bugs, shadows shifting, some animals, etc. This is when I decided I did not need constant pictures at all the highest settings and that the sun should not be shining directly to the camera. Like I said I used to worry i was going to miss something. We need a sticky on setting up game cameras! Oh wait we have one but I wasn't even aware of this site when I started messing with the game cams.

Good info Stomp!

Wow! Congrats.... I have yet to even see a buck like the one on the right and I have lived here for over 40 years.

Used the moultries the last few years and they worked fine, a little heavy and hard to point comapred to what is out now. I have the spypoint tiny cams for this year but have not got to use them enough to comment. I really like the covert and the battery life Amanda and others are getting is pretty impressive so a couple of those may be next on my list. The good news is all of the cameras have gotten a LOT better in the last 3 years or so. How do most people set their cameras, always wondered this? 1 min, 3 shot burst, 5 min, etc. One thing I learned is that taking a bunch of shots of the same thing wasted a lot of my time sorting through pictures, memory, etc. I was so worried I would miss something but most of the animals don't move that fast and a couple of pictures of the same animal are usually enough. Curious what others do.

Cool bird, AWSOME dog!

A couple of things to consider: In a factory rifle neither caliber is ideal for heavier bullets; factory twist rate, choices available (.270), barel length among the reasons. You most likely need to spend some time on load development. Don't go buy a scope until you determine what you really want. All that said 500 yards and in should be no problem for your rifles if they already shoot well. As Antmo stated first thing I would do is Invest in the scope and put it on the rifle that shoots the best with heavier bullets 160gr-180gr in the 7mm or 140gr-150gr in the .270. If you buy a scope you really like and learn to use it you can move it to any rifle. For a tactical (dial in) configuration I would look at Leupold, Vortex, Weaver, Sightron, or Zeiss. I think these have the biggest bang for the buck with Vortex & Weavers new scopes being the price point winners. You need to decide Mil, MOA, magnification, and which reticle you are comfortable with. Life is a lot oeasier if you get a scope with a reticle and adjustment system that match Mil/Mil, MOA/MOA. Don't cheap out on the base and rings, make sure you budget for these as well and plan on spending a bit of time making absolutley sure the scope is level, test the scope to verify it is level and the adjustment are in order at the range. Next thing to do is to get a ballistics program for you smart phone, iPod, etc. I use shooter (lots of info and good service) but there are a number of good ones at different price points. Get all your load data and rifle info into the program, which will accomplish 2 things. First you will get a really good understanding of how your bullet is traveling, the second is that you will learn how your scope works for elevation and windage. This should give you a lot more confidence and help to set some standards for what you are capable of and comfortable with. Last thing I would add, as someone pointed out, you can always rebarrel one of the rifles if you decide you want something with more speed or to match a caliber that one of your buddies has done most of the work on already to save time and investment on your part. All of this sounds like a lot but if you spend one summer working it out it will pay dividends on your shooting/hunting for the rest of your life. I would guess you could work most things out on a single gun in 3-4 trips to the range if you keep good notes and do your homework. The danger is you will become like most of us an be a little obsessed after you get bitten by the long range/accuracy bug. As you arelady found out it is quite an experience when you realize you can consistently hit a target at 500 yds and beyond.

I hvae had a few requests for more details. Here is the word document where I kept my notes for reference. Sorry if it is a bit tough to follow as I wrote this for my reference not as a real tutorial. Let me know if you have questions. Amanda let me know if there are any issues with posting this or the links to other sites as an example of which products I used spcifically. IP Camera setup.doc

I am looking at what my next rifle project will be and want some feedback. I am either going to do a light 6.5mm or go big and do a .338. for te 6.5 I was looking at the 6.5x55 or the 260 rem. Only reason I have left off the 6.5x284 is I already have a 6mmx284 and getting ammo mixed up could be a potential nightmare. What 6.5 are you shooting and how do you like it? What would you have done differently?

I have a one page list for the equipment and setup but wil have to send it over email. If you PM me I will send the attachment your way.