forepaw

Most of the major companies have BDC type reticles that will give a pretty close match with your ammo and point of impact to that distance. Some like Nikon and Burris, have free software to help calibrate your zero. Leupold makes a CDS scope which is slightly out of your price range for a new one, but you could no doubt find a used one in good shape. The basic things for your rifle would be glass bed, free float, re-crown the muzzle, adjust trigger, clean the bore with JB Bore Paste, and practice from field positions. Especially in the wind. A 10 mph crosswind at 400 yds. will probably move your bullet 18". If you put up some paper targets, they will really tell the tale! forepaw

You want to get to 500 or 600 yds. Ok. Does that mean banging gongs and boulders off the hood of your pickup, or capability of putting the first shot in a vital area on game? If the first, about any 3-9x40 scope with duplex crosshair will do. If the second, then you have more issues than just scope selection. forepaw

You probably have some slop in your press linkage. That wobble can lead to slight variance in bullet seating. Also, are you using a reliable comparator tool that measures the bullet at the same place just below the tip? If you are measuring COAL from base of the case to the tip of the seated bullet you will easily have variation of the amount you mention. Or more. It is not a big deal in a hunting rifle. If you have a target rifle with match chamber, then you would need to be a little fussier. forepaw

www.24hourcampfire.com has a Savage Collectors forum. Lots of knowledge and helpful folks there. forepaw

www.midwayusa.com has VX-6 scopes discounted 38%. Don't know how long that sale will be going, but you won't find a new VX-6 cheaper than that. forepaw

The Maricopa Co. (assume you are Maricopa and not Yavapai) Health Dept. has folks who can explain the details, as does ADEQ. If you want to delve a little more, contact the U of A. The Dept. of Soils, Water and Environmental Science has folks who are Ph.D. level and can tell you more than you probably want to know, though it doesn't take that level of training to walk you through it. If you still aren't satisfied with info you are getting, send me a pm and we can visit over the phone. I am familiar with the issues you are describing. forepaw

Shot cartridges for a Glock - 9mm? .40?. I need to get some of those. Do they feed ok? forepaw

Actually the Swede is 120 years old. I don't think they realized at the time what an ideal combination of inherent accuracy, light recoil, low muzzle blast, and bullet weight and shape they had. They were some pretty smart hombres, so maybe they did - they got rate of twist right. A lot of modern calibers shoot heavier bullets, faster, and hit with more energy at long range. But as you get older, and get tired of lugging all that stuff around on long walks, then a lightweight, accurate, flat-shooting rifle like the Swede begins to have some appeal. You can use 100 or 120 gr. bullets for varmints, or 160 gr. for big stuff. Competition-quality match bullets are everywhere. That is the biggest drawback to the .25-06 in my opinion, but then it is more of a hunting caliber. The choices of factory ammo for the Swede tend to be a little thin, but most hunters, and virtually all target shooters, will no doubt want to handload for it.. forepaw

Moqui Stage Station. forepaw

Using very similar criteria, I bought a Tikka T3 Hunter 6.5x55 SE. I was leaning toward more of a 1k target rifle, and considered the T3 Varmint, but it is only available in this country in .223 and .22-250. The Tikka CTR is known to be outstandingly accurate, but it is too bulky and heavy for a Coues or sheep rifle, though it could definitely handle the 600 yd. limit you imposed, and then some. You could re-barrel your .30-06 to the Swede. The bolt face on your Rem. 700 is 0.473" and the Swede is 0.480", so depending on the brass and the bolt face tolerance, you might need to have it opened slightly. No big deal. No other changes would be needed. The magazine will work as is. The Swede is about midway between the .257 Roberts and the .270. In other words, close to a .25-06, except you swap mv for better B.C. and choice of much heavier bullets if you ever want to shoot elk or moose. The max SAFE load (using H4350 and 140 match bullets) looks to be about 1.0 - 1.5 gr. less than the 6.5x284, but I will know more as I get some loads developed. If you want a really high-performing wildcat, go to a 6.5x55 AI. No experience with one, but from what I have read it offers a significant improvement over the standard Swede (which is a good round in the standard form). forepaw

PM sent. forepaw

So if the pilot goes out, do you turn off the gas to that appliance until you can re-light it, or do you just leave it. Do they generally have an auto shut-off that senses the flame is out? Thanks. forepaw

The Japanese Brownings are very good. I have a Miroku Win. 101 and it is a handsome, well made, well fitted gun. However, these don't command the prices of Belgian guns, or Pre-64 Winchesters (M 12 or 25 or 24). The very early Belgian A-5s in some cases did not have the shell cutoff, which is a useful feature. The Belgian 16 came as a standard field grade, and Sweet 16. They are easy to tell apart. The Sweet 16 is lighter, and generally will bring a higher price, but as far as shooting characteristics, I doubt if I could tell any difference. I have never seen a 16 ga. A-5 in anything other than field grade. If you can find any Belgian A-5 in good shape with a spare barrel and an original fitted hard case, you might want to really look at it. Matched sets are rare, but extra barrels are relatively easy to come by. forepaw

I believe the Bowtech binary cams are draw-length specific. However, I just ordered a set of modules for my 2007 Allegiance LH and Bowtech had them in stock. They might have cams too. It is worth checking, the Allegiance is a great bow. You won't be able to order directly, but any authorized dealer can get them for you. You can switch between the speed module and the smooth module to see which suits you best. There is supposed to be about 6 fps difference, but I only lost about 2 fps going from the speed module to the smooth. The draw cycle was much less aggressive. forepaw

Guys, I have been trying to get a sense for preferences in carbon arrows. I have been using Gold Tip XTs for years, and they seem good and not too expensive, but have also heard good things about Easton Axis arrows. They are not cheap, but apparently are very straight and very tough. Also, they are smaller diameter which aids penetration. Anyone have opinions one way or the other? Is there enough difference to make a major switch? Or would you likely only notice the difference if you were a world-class shooter (which I am not). Thanks all. forepaw

Guys, Midway has VX-6 Leupolds for very decent prices right now - not just good, but smoking. I saw a 3-18x44 with TMOA reticle for $1,039.99. They also have other options and other scopes. forepaw

Curious as to experience/feedback with Big O Tire "Bigfoot AT". They advertise buy 3 get one free. That doesn't mean the tires are good for all-purpose or off road, but possibly ok for light duty. forepaw

Those horns are so smooth you almost can't see the growth rings. That would indicate the ruts the ram has lived through may not have been particularly stressful, at least that is my understanding of the very distinctive growth rings found on mature NV and AZ deserts. forepaw

Very nice job. That is not only a neat family heirloom, it is a proven design, and one with a lot of character. One thing you might want to consider is, those early M 721's were put together with stocks intended to be used with iron sights, so they had quite a bit of drop at the comb. A removable (strap on) or peel and stick cheek pad will allow for a more comfortable position and consistent cheek weld. I have one in .222 and it is a tack driver, very reliable and fun to shoot. I have been tempted to buy others, but . . . well you know, only so much room. forepaw

PM sent. forepaw

There are a number of pretty decent binos in that price range. I had a pair stolen out of my vehicle (with $600 Rx sunglasses), and even though they were only $300 - $400 optics, I hated to lose them, as they were pretty decent. If you wear glasses all the time, then eye relief is going to be a concern. For that reason, I like Pentax in that price range, as (to my knowledge) they have the most generous eye relief (up to 20mm) of any of the major and mid-range brands. If you wear contacts or don't wear glasses, then your choice is basically unlimited. forepaw

Very nice. I guess that would be considered an "alert" pose - not quite a sneak pose? Looks lifelike to me. forepaw

What worked well on my stock was to take off the OEM pad, fill the cavity with gunsmith-quality foam (to deaden the hollow sound), and pull a Limbsaver small/medium pad directly over the open end of the buttstock. It fits perfectly, handles recoil well, and results in a stock that is a good 1/2" shorter, without any permanent change to the existing stock (for when you want to add some length or sell it). Plus, the Limbsaver really takes the sting out of recoil in that light rifle. forepaw

Howdy Sam, I haven't seen any MR ammo for a long time, but I can recommend a reduced load that might fill your need, assuming you handload, or have a friend who can cobble some together. This would be 24 gr. of SR 4759 with your choice of 130 gr. bullet. This is a very accurate and consistent reduced load. Velocity is 2170 fps. I have used both R-P and Nosler brass, with W-W primers. Mostly, I have used Sierra bullets, both flat-base and boattail. Possibly a Sierra GK or Nosler BT would expand reliably at this velocity. I have practiced with this load to 335 yds. and it is quiet, mild, and accurate. Hope that helps. forepaw

They are known to be there, but they don't seem to stay, they move through. It is strange but occasionally elk are seen up in the NW AZ desert, in very un-elk like country. In fact, I have seen a photo (with reliable eyewitness report) of a young spike bull off the Temple Bar Road. Jeeessshhh. Talk about a lost elk. I am also aware of the 400 class bull killed in an OTC unit, and have been to that spot, but it was not the Alamo hunt. If you want to help your partner hunt the Alamo Lake hunt, it seems the best bet would be to make trips to the shoreline to look for tracks, and also check out the riparian areas along the Bill Williams River. I have no experience hunting that unit (except quail and javelina) but I have seen photos of bulls killed there (none big). Like most AZ hunting, good optics and glassing will save on tires and boots. forepaw