lancetkenyon

I have a pair of Han Wags for Taylor......awesome boot. Great for rocky hunts where you want a bit stiffer boot.

Your zero stays your zero (under the exact same conditions) in a FFP or SFP scope on any magnification. But change conditions, like elevation, temps, etc. it will shift minutely. Beyond 100 (or 200 if that is your zero) is where you see a difference in drops from where you usually shoot. Still pretty close out to 400 or so, but changes in POI will occur as conditions change. Go from low elevation cold weather to high elevation summer weather, and drops change significantly out past 400, and big changes occur past 600-1000+. Your clicks stay the same in FFP or SFP scopes on any magnification. 1/4 MOA clicks are 1/4 MOA clicks @ 3x or 24X @ 100 yards. @ 200 yards, they become 1/2 MOA clicks in both FFP or SFP scopes. 400 yards, they become 1 MOA clicks in both FFP or SFP scopes. 800 yards, yep, 2 MOA clicks, 1000 yards, 2.5MOA clicks, and so on. Subtension values are what change at different magnifications in a SFP, whereas they remain constant in a FFP scope. A SFP scope with subtensions are ONLY accurate at max magnification & 100 yards. So say you have a BDC reticle in a SFP scope. Usually*, SFP BDC reticles are 0, 1.5MOA, 3.5MOA, 7.5MOA, 11MOA (or similar). That is @ 24X in a 6-24x50 scope. But, once you turn down magnification, all bets are off. You have to go to half max magnification to get back on track. @ 12X, the same subtensions become 3, 7, 15, 22MOA holds. When you go to 6X, they become 6, 14, 30, 44MOA subtensions. But only @ 100 yards. Start moving out, and those numbers change again, and you better break out a ballistic program and a calculator. FFP subtensions remain constant at any magnification. A 5 MOA mark is a 5 MOA mark @ 6x, 8X, 12.2X, 15.7X, 20.1X, or 24X. At 100 yards. At 200, they double in inches. Still 5MOA, but it is now 10". At 300, they triple to 15" at 400, the quadruple to 20" which is still 5MOA.....@ 1000, they are 10X or 50" but still 5 MOA (yeah, I don't know that term). But magnification has no effect of subtension values.

OP, you will have to explain what you are asking. I am not following the question.

I have MANY questions on this post.... 1. What? 2. Are you being serious? (If "Yes", see #5) 3. Are you being sarcastic? (Similar to #4) 4. Are you just messing with us? 5. Are you drunk?

Be aware.....reloading will NOT save you money. It will, however, allow you to shoot exactly what you want, and develop a load that is best suited to YOUR rifle. Buy the high quality components, you will get more consistent results, and consistency=accuracy. A good single stage press is all you will ever need unless you are bulk loading the likes of .223 or .308 for a gas gun that eats a lot. Hornady, RCBS Redding, etc are all good. Get a full frame, not a "C" frame press. Scales. I have a Hornady Auto scale & throw. I throw to within .3 grains, then transfer over to an RCBS 5-0-5 and trickle up the individual kernel. I have a GemPro 250 electronic that I verify every 3rd charge too. RCBS Chargemaster is good too. But to me, .1gr accuracy is not enough. .02gr is vital in my opinion for low ES, SD, and accuracy. Trimmers. I use a Forster myself. You will need pilots for each caliber you reload. Primers. I use an RCBS hand primer. Calipers. I used a cheap Harbor Freight Pittsburg for a long time. Not terrible. I now use an iGauging EZCal. Way nice. As good as a Mitutomo from many reviews, and about 1/3 the cost. Very precise. You will need headspace gushes and caliber specific inserts for seating depth. Keeping exact jump to lands consistent is imperative to accuracy. I strive for no more than .001" variance in CBTO (cartridge base to ogive). I don't worry about COAL (cartridge overall length) as long as it fits in the mag box. Powder funnel. Get one. Dies. I like Redding die sets for most cartridges. I get a lot of sets with a micrometer seating die, so it makes adjusting seating depth easy. Not necessary, but much simpler. Especially if you load for more than one rifle or more than one bullet in a particular cartridge. Whidden, Forster and Dillon are great. RCBS are good, especially for the price. Hornady are mediocre. Lee are decent as well. Full length (FL) dies are a must in my opinion for hunting rifles where you want the round to chamber easily. Neck size dies have their place, but not my 1st choice for hunting rounds. Learn how to set dies up for YOUR rifle. Shell holder. RCBS & Redding are fine. Don't mix and match once you get a load worked up. It can make a difference in resizing and seating depths. Major head diameters are .473"(standard cartridges), .532" (magnum cartridges), and .534" (SAUM, WSM, RUMs). Reloading manuals. Even though new ones come out every few years, hard to get started without a couple. I have 8 or so. I still reference them. Most bullet and powdermanufacturers have their own. Be careful substituting bullets for similar ones from another brand or weight. There are websites that have reloading info, but not all guns are created equal. What works in one, may be unsafe in another. Lots of reloading knowledge on here. Once you get set up, make sure you glean as much info as you can before buying consumables. I load between 6000-8000 rounds a year. All on a single stage press for quality, not quantity. Ask lots of questions. You will get varied answers, with lots of opinions. Learn from them from people who have done the trial and error before you.

I have loaded a 140 HVLD over IMR7828SSC @ 3008fps with no pressure from a 24" 1:8" Kreiger with great accuracy in the 6.5-.284 Norma. Pretty cool.little round. Much better suited for a LA than a SA.

They have not responded to 3 emails or 2 calls. So I am guessing they won't.

Norma shorted me one piece of .300WSM brass, sending 99 pieces in the bag. I need one piece to make an even 100. Brass weight should be around 249.0-251.0gr if possible. Once fired or new, doesn't matter as my die is set perfectly for the chamber it will be shot from. Willing to buy and pay for shipping to Phoenix. Or, I can meet FTF in the greater Phx area, but that would not be until the week of Thanksgiving. Let me know what you have and how much you want for it.

Bring good optics. Glass until your eyes bleed. Tough hunt. There are elk, but they are in the thick PJs and hard to find. There are still some big bulls, but not many.

Yes, worth opening half of the unit for hunting.

Pick a road. Pull off, find a nice spot. Weather can be sunny and 60 to snowing and single digits. Bring everything.

PM Sent.

I have one too. 101 & I-17 area. Standard LA mag box, magnum follower and spring..

It was freaking hilarious. I was just getting ready to squeeze off a shot at 1181, and a squirrel popped up about 10' to the right and behind. I ranged again real quick, and told the spotter to watch. He was sitting on top of a rock, and it was far enough away that I got back on target after the shot broke to watch the hit. I hit about 1-2" low on the angled rock, and the shrapnel blew him 20' in the air spiraling in a tangle of....parts. My spotter said, "No....FU<#!NG.... WAY!". I remained calm like it was no big deal..... I consider it my best shot ever.

143 ELD-X @ 2740fps: 7000'AMSL 30°F 50% humidity 500 yds 2180fps & 1508ft/lbs 750 yds 1926fps & 1177ft/lbs 880 yds 1802fps & 1031ft/lbs (max hunting yardage)

I shoot about 2500-3000 rounds a year of centerfire rifles. Probably 800 or so at 400 to 1700+ yards. My personal hunting rifles are verified at long range for actual drops. Here are some shots over the last 4-5 years. A lot of other 1st round one shot kills from 18 to 350 yards that will not add to this discussion. I can not think of many that needed a second shot. Maybe 1 bull @ 250 just to anchor him at last light. 662 yds, bull elk, 1 shot, within .5" of POA. 7RM w. 180 Hybrid @ 2996fps Bull went 50+/- yards 772 yards, coyote, 1 shot. 7RM w. 180 Hybrid @ 2996fps Coyote ran 40 yards 637 yds, mule deer buck, 1 shot, with wind drift about 4" R from POA (still shattered both shoulders, vertebra, and top of both lungs) deer dropped at the shot and never moved. 6.5 SLR w. 127 LRX @ 3060fps (by my 14 year old daughter) 1365 yds, 2 coyotes, 2 shots. .300RUM w. 230 Hybrid @ 3068fps Coyotes flopped about 20 yards downhill 1323 yards, coyote, 2 shots. .250AI w. 100SMK @ 3100fps Coyote spun about 4 times and dropped 488 yards, mule deer buck, 1 shot. .25-06AI w. 100 TTSX @ 3600fps Never took a step 432 yds, bull elk, 1 shot. .300RUM w. 215 Hybrid @ 3100fps (son-in-law) Dropped at the shot 1201 yards, squirrel, 1 shot. .300RUM w. 230 Hybrid @ 3068fps Flew about 20' in the air in a tangled mess Here are a couple of the misses (names will be withheld): Bull elk @ 882, shot right over his back (because shooter misunderstood when I told him to "hold right on his shoulder", and he held the top of the shoulder....right where the vapor trail showed) .300RUM w. 215 Hybrid @ 3100fps Big mule deer @ 851, saw bullet impact dirt just below belly. Watched that deer play cat and mouse with the hunter for 45 minutes, never offering another shot. 6.5 SLR w. 140 HVLD @ 2950fps I can't count the number of shots NOT taken because conditions did not allow what I consider a guaranteed kill shot or a possible recovery. Not so much distance, but mainly wind, cover, weather, proximity to nasty terrain for recovery, etc., I have missed more archery shots than rifle by far. And 80% of those were at freaking turkeys.

That guy needs to rework his loads. I had a 143 ELD-X @ 2740 from a 21" 6.5CM for a guy I worked up.

A Bartlein #2b is pretty much the same weight as a Proof Sendero Light of the same length. Same with a #3 to a Proof Sendero contour. But, you gain a lot of stiffness with the Proof, and the lack of walking as the barrel heats up is a big benefit if you plan on 3+ shots in a row.

Final build specs: Lone Peak Fuzion Ti SA DBM 24" Proof Research Sendero 1:7.5" Axisworks Muscle Mag 3 port brake Manners PRS2 in "Tac Swamp" bedded Axisworks DBM w. AI mags Trigger Tech Diamond @ 6oz (yeah, 6oz!!!) Cerakote in Elite Sand Seekins alloy 30mm. 87" medium rings Tangent Theta TT315M 3-15×50 w. Gen 2XR MIL Finished weight of scoped rifle with 5 rd magazine is 9lbs 14oz Starting load work up: Lapua SR brass Fed GM205M 41.0-44.0 H4350 (42.0 @ 3056fps & 44.0 @ 3200 are both ridiculously accurate, everything was actually sub .5" except the cold/clean/new group) 105 Berger Hybrid 2.858" COAL 2.246" CBTO (touching the lands) Range day this morning First 3 shots out of the rifle. Cold/clean/new shot, then 2 more almost touching. Adjusted zero, then....It shoots as good as it looks. Shots 7/8/9 from the rifle. 105 Hybrid @ 3056fps The local inspector had to get a better look at the rifle... I got the 105 Hybrids up to 3200fps with no signs of pressure. Everything was under .5". Had the above group @ .240", and the group @ 3200fps were at .307". All with bullets seated just touching the lands for testing purposes.

If you have seen bucks in 7E, hunt 7E. I have actually seen more deer in 7E than 7W in the last 20 years.

For the price, they are phenomenal. Pros: Tracks perfect, great reticle, good turrets, good eye box Cons: No zero stop (but you can get an aftermarket set of shims), no illumination

Teaser...

I picked it up yesterday..... Only had time to.bring it home and slap the Tangent Theta on it real quick before I had to go to dinner..... I will post photos this weekend....it is badass...as usual from Axisworks.

I have a Kestrel 4500 with bluetooth and AB. I use it LR shooting all the time, and carry it hunting with me too. Let's you know the difference between a 12mph and 14mph wind that will effect drift at 600+ causing a clean hit or a wound. It allowed me two 1st round hits on two coyotes @ 1365 with an 11mph 90° full value wind.

Don't let the antis see this. They will be darting game and hanging these plates on them for release back into the wild...