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Found 1 result

  1. Annealing Cases I thought I would do a little review for those hard core reloading nuts like me that do everything in preparation to achieve the best accuracy and precision for long range hunting/shooting. I have done just about everything that I can in case prep to achieve the best SD/ES with accuracy and precision this includes annealing your cases. Most anneal to extend case life, I anneal for accuracy. I will explain. It starts when you fire a case, then size the case you are work hardening the brass. You will eventually split your case necks if you do not anneal. Annealing softens the brass and in turn can help with accuracy too. I have found if I anneal after every firing I can keep my ES 9/SD 3 down in the single digits with extreme accuracy because the case necks are more uniform with tension. If I did not anneal every time then my ES 18/SD 9 was a little higher but not much I was able to stay under 20 fps at least. I started with hand annealing with 2 Benzomatic torches facing each other. I apply some 750 degree Tempilaq to the case so I know when it has annealed. When the Tempilaq melts you are at your desired temp. Annealing process is 650 degrees for 15 minutes or so BUT if we did that the heat would travel down the case to the case head which is what you do not want. So in order for it to anneal properly we need to bring the neck of the case to 750 degrees (most preferred temp). We can then quench in water. Some think that water would harden like metal but instead it does nothing. The case will remain soft. The reason why most quench is so the heat will not travel down to the case head. I have been annealing by hand with great success but when I started annealing after every firing it started to become a pain and inconsistent. The Ballistic Edge Model 400 annealing machine was well packaged with well explained instructions for set up. I had to do some playing but was able to start annealing within 30 minutes. I did well over 50 cases within 15 minutes. Cases rotate thru the dual flames as the shell-plate turns. Torch height is adjustable, as is torch angle and intensity. Torch holders will accept any 1/2" to 5/8" diameter tip. After passing through the flame, cases drop out after a quarter-turn. Underneath is a fan that can be turned on as needed when annealing shorter-height cases or for just keeping the case heads cooler. The model 400 shell-plate on top can be made for one caliber or multiple calibers. When researching the different machines I found out that if you have to mess with the speed of how fast the plate turns that was one more variable you had to deal with, the model 400 has a constant speed. Eliminating the need to adjust each torch after they were properly adjusted, both torch tips were hooked up to a 5 gal BBQ tank with a splitter making the propane tank as the on/off valve. In closing if you are trying to achieve the best accuracy, ES/SD, and case life then this is a step that you may want to take into consideration. First see if annealing will even help by hand annealing, if it does help then this maybe something to consider. If you rarely shoot then you are probably better off by hand annealing. I know this machine will last me my lifetime by just the way it was built. Personally the Model 400 is the best for the money, design, material used, and the one on one help. You can call Phil Keil (Ballistics Edge owner) and he would be more than happy to help you out at any time or you can visit his website at annealingmachines.com. I do not work for or are associated with Ballistic Edge MFG. This is my personal views.
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