what is the best broadhead grain for deer!!!!

[krp]

Coues Archer, I have never used the easton epics but at 8.6 gpi there's not much difference than the GT's at 8.2 so each is spined pretty close.

 

Are you having accuracy problems with your setup or just wanting a change? The only reason I ask is, if you are chasing tune by buying different equipment, it is probably a waste of money. Any arrow can be made to work in any bow if it is spined for that setup. You may have to adjust the poundage a little to really harmonize it but that is easy.

 

I shoot the same setup you have right now and have no problems, going to a 125 head would only screw up my tune and cause me problems and cost me money. KE will only increase with poundage, not weight of BH or arrow.

 

Shooting the same bow without adjusting poundage. A lighter arrow will go faster, a heavier arrow will go slower, they both will start at the same KE and hit with the same KE at the same DISTANCE. A heavier arrow may penetrate 5% more, at the same distance if it is spine tuned correctly, because of momentum, but that's almost nothing.

 

So many people think they will gain some advantage to going with a heavier arrow or head or both, than what is recomended on a spine chart for their DL, DW and arrow. There is no advantage and tuning becomes a big problem. Paper tune doesn't count, it's how well you shoot out to distance with no fliers and at any position.

 

Kent

[Coues Archer]

I'am not having accuracy difficulties its just I have six brand new 125 grain broadheads and was wondering if i should switch to those broadheads cause they would have more penetration. Also the Easton shaft selecting chart said that my arrows would be spined correctly with either 100 or 125 grain broadheads so I dont think it really matters. all i want for my bow is to have more penetration and KE.

[Kevin]

Coues Archer, if your arrows are flying good now-with whatever grain field point you are shooting-most fixed blade broadheads of the same weight will fly good with some minor tweaking. Gaining mass (arrow weight) may actually cause less penetration if arrow flight is affected and becomes less than optimal. Imagine the extreme: If your broadhead is too heavy or too light the arrow will fly sideways, back and forth, until the fletching stabalizes it. If the arrow strikes the target (hopefully in your case a 380 bull) while in oscilation your penetration will not be as good as if the arrow was lighter and flying perfectly straight. Ever drive nails? Hitting the nail on the head with a straight blow will drive it deeper in the board than if you strike it from the side, no?

 

I've shot through bull elk with a 390 grain GT 7595 with a 90 grain Wasp head. Not a lot of mass, but they fly straight and true. That's the key--besides the broadhead being shaving sharp.

 

If you want to check how well your arrow flies, strip the fletching off the arrow and shoot it at 30 yards WITH A FIELD POINT. Do not, repeat, DO NOT try this with a broadhead!!!!!!! If your arrow oscilates from side to side you need to tune the arrow or bow. Also, the arrow should strike the target straight, not having the nock to one side or the other. Look up Easton's tuning guide on the web for details.

 

Just remember, true flight and sharp broadheads are much more important than total arrow weight.

 

Good luck on your tuning and your hunt and congratulations for doing this now instead of the day before the hunt. I'm sure it will pay off for you come September.

 

Kevin

[krp]

Yes, you are on the edge of each shaft, a 400 or 340. A spine chart is only the starting point. You may be able to put a 125 head on and still be in exceptable spine as far as accuracy goes. You will not gain any KE without cranking up the poundage though, you will go slower but hit just as hard as if you were going faster with your current setup.

 

If you were in perfect spine with your current setup and you were probably real close if not perfect, I shoot the same DW, DL, and GT XT at real close to the same poundage. Putting the 125 will put you slightly underspined, your shaft will flex more now, than with the 100. To get more KE you will need to up the poundage and that will put you even more underspined.

 

Imagine pushing a rock with the point of a stick. It will bend before getting the rock rolling and having it's own momentum. If the stick's the same except for length, it will bend more if longer and less if shorter. Spine. If you use the same stick but try and push a different weight rock it will bend more or less depending on the weight change. Effecting spine. If you add more or less energy into the shaft and head, the shaft will bend more or less depending on the amount. Spine again.

 

If you make one change, you must make at least one other. Nothing helps KE except increasing energy.

 

Here is how much flex is in a tuned bow.

 

 

To have your bow in tune you need the flex to be as vertical as possible with a release, horizontal with fingers, and ride on two nodes going staight/square to the target. That's why once you have your arrows bought and cut and a head attached there is only one true poundage/energy tune with your bow to that setup. Like the harmonics of a rifle barrel, the harmonics of your arrow shaft is important.

 

To truly get more KE you will need to up your poundage, buy stiffer arrows and put on your 125's, then retune your entire setup.

 

The most important factor in penetration is hitting as square as possible and the broadhead.

 

Don't fix what ain't broke.

 

Kent