Pac8541 Report post Posted February 7, 2015 Move the arrow rest to get your BH and FP to group, then adjust your sights to zero the group back on point of aim. Make small simple moves with your rest, no more than 1/8" if hitting to the right move left, if hitting to the left, move right. Your objective is to get BH and FP to group. Not to move your BH group to your point of aim. Then once you have the "best group" with both BH and FP you then adjust your sight to get you group hitting on your point of aim. Good luck, and remember to keep it simple. Totally dig this description and I'm embarrassed to say I never thought of it this way. Again, as a professional rifle shooter, this makes absolute sense: treat the bow, once tuned, as you would the fixed rifle action/barrel/stock. Then zero that action like you would a scope. Well no screamin' eagle s#@@$%t, son!! How the heck'd you miss that one?! So the plan is to paper tune the bow as perfect as I can get it, like wht_mtnman says, getting the best tear I can get, then "zero" my Spot Hogg to start hoggin' spots. I'm helping conduct a haze-fest with a bunch of guys at work over the next 3 days but will get on this pronto after that. Really appreciate all the feedback and help on a topic that's likely been beaten to death repeatedly. This place is pretty awesome. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rageinthesage Report post Posted February 7, 2015 ----> Looks a little windy... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
