willhunt4coues

They look good but you need the level on the scope itself. I like the Tubb Levels sleek and smooth.

Thread pitch on the bolt handle is 5/16x24 so any aftermarket knob will work on this.

I ordered it friday and it was here monday. The Glades armory is first class mail. Know this I had to do a little bit of filing to the key hole on the handle to make it fit with my needle files. Key hole was just a little small and had burrs. Not PERFECT quality but still nice. Even my factory bolt handle is tight. I believe it is my PTG bolt body it is oversized but should have still fit fine. A little finesse and it will work.

I bedded the sides, front action and rear action screw, and recoil lug area. I didn't take pictures after it set and I should have. If I take the stock back off soon I will take a picture, I only bed up to the recoil lug everything in front of the lug I take a dremel and remove. The devcon bedding area: The Glades armory handle:

Yes she is gone.

I have for sale like new Savage Model 11 Long Range Hunter 6.5 Creedmoor 26" **1700.00**. Comes with Valdada 6-24x50 35mm tube MP8 scope illuminated, Valdada base, Valdada Rings, open close muzzle break, accustock (work done to stock so stock was not touching barrel), accutrigger, karsten comb . This gun loves H4350 @ 42.2gn, 140 berger vld, Nosler or Hornady brass, CCI-BR2 primers this set up will produce a 1/4 moa group. Factory A max 140 will do 1/2 to 3/4 moa. If you are interested in Gun only I would be willing to sell just the gun 800.00 (no base, no rings and no scope). Scope was 1400.00, Gun 950, base 100. Gun has 200 rounds and was broke in correctly (shoot clean for 10, shoot 3 clean for 20, shoot 5 clean for 20.) I will post more pictures later.

I like that they are vinyl

She weighs 11 lbs (with rings) and scope is 24 oz. So we are looking at probably 12.10 lbs. My other rifle weighs in at 14.50 lbs and can still carry her. My pack can carry the guns.

Its a 6.5 creedmoor. I have another rifle JUST like this one and am running H4350 @ 41.8 gn, Berger Vld 140gn, CBTO 2.190=.020 off lands, Nosler cases, CCI-BR2 primer. I can get 2815 fps with this load. I can travel up to 43.0 gn before pressure signs start but I am not a speed freak just precision.

SMOKIN deal here. Great donor rifle. If I had the cash I would. I just built another rifle so all my money is in it.

I have a client that has the hunt. He is out of the valley.

i HAVE THIS SAME STOVE IN MY 12X20 TENT AND IT HEATS IT JUST FINE. Sorry for the caps lock.

Okay guys this Savage Axis would be a great DONOR action meaning dissemble the entire rifle for just the action and build up from there, A savage action model 10 action with bolt and trigger is 515.00 alone. If you want to build a nice long action rifle the 30-06 savage axis would be a great donor. Great price. If I had not already started building I would buy this in a heart beat.

HuntHarder Take your scope right now at zero and dial DOWN (not up) and see how many MOA you used to zero your gun at 100 yards. MOST scopes I just mounted 1 nightforce on a 20 MOA base, 1 Sightron on a 20 moa base, and 1 IOR valdada on a 20 moa base. Every single one is zeroed now I can travel down with the turrets and all are within 20 to 30 moa to BOTTOM OUT THE TURRET. So back to what I was explaining you will ALWAYS use at least 20 moa (if when you get your scope completely bottom out the turret) you will see it takes around 20 to 40 moa JUST TO ZERO AT 100 YARDS (that is 20 moa to zero if you have a 20 moa base, and 40 moa to zero if you have a 0 moa base). So in reality lets say the scope has 50 moa TOTAL adjustment (you can check this when you get the scope just bottom out the turret and start dialing up to see its FULL range) then you have a 20 moa base. You take the gun out to sight it in and use 20 moa to zero it well now you will have only 30 moa left to travel UP for elevation shot which will get you 1000 yards but most just getting started don't know to get a scope with a lot of adjustments. Now lets go back and say that same 50 moa scope has a 0 moa base you will now use 30 to 40 moa to zero leaving you with only 20 to 10 moa of adjustments. Hutharder try your scope you will be surprised. The nightforce I just installed used 26 moa to zero at 100 yards, My IOR used 20 moa (if I got a 40 moa base I would be able to get FULL RANGE OF ADJUSTMENTS out of my scope 70 moa), sightron used 30 moa but still has 75 moa left and all of these have 20 moa bases take away that 20 moa base and you will have to add 20 moa to every scope. That is why they MAKE bases with 10,15,20,30,40 moa cants so you can use your scope FULL POTENTIAL.

Thanks guys!!! So far I have ordered all my goodies Scope, Barrel, Base, Rings, Trigger, stock man what a great birthday now just to put the build together....

Oh did not know they made H450. Thanks learn something everyday.

Do you mean H4350?

I have 2 pairs of the Jackels and love them. They support your ankle very well and feel like you are in tennis shoes. I was worried about being able to feel the rocks on my feet since their soles are not aggressive but have never had a problem. They are great for stalking game very quiet.

FFP (front focal plane) the sub-tensions (little marks in the scope which usually equal 1 or 2 moa) will remain consistent, so say you have a 6-24x50 scope and you are on 20x then you want to hold over 2moa on your shot instead of dialing the turret then you just hold over to 2. On a SFP scope (second focal plane) the sub-tensions only work at 24x. You can try to figure out the math on another power but it gets confusing and if your deer is 300 yards then 24x will probably be too much power. Parallax best way to describe it is focus and moving the reticle. So lets say your scope is out of focus at 100 yards move your head left/right & up/down you will see the reticle moves all around the target. When you focus (parallax adjust) then it should become clear and when you move your head around again you can see the reticle stay on target and not move. you may only want to shoot 700 yards but still get a scope that adjusts at least 70 moa. Even with a 20 moa base you can still use 20 moa just getting a zero leaving you with 50 moa. Now lets say you get a 70 moa scope with a 0 moa base you may use 30 to 40 moa just to get a zero leaving you with 30 or 40 moa of adjustments which is enough to get to 1000 yards depending on caliber and ballistics. Lets say you get a 50 moa scope (most non long range scopes are this) and you use a 0 moa base now you only have 10 to 20 moa and thats it. So don't chance it get the scope with the best clarity, tracking, MOA adjustments, for the money. You can never have too many MOA but you don't want to get a scope that does not have enough then you have to sell it and get one that does you will be losing money then. Check out every review you can. Look at the new Nightforce SHV 5-20x56, Sightron 6-24x50 (you will love the moa reticle has a floating dot). These scope are between 742.00 to 1100.00 worth every penny and more.

There is a top line shooter doing a review right now and vortex and night force are getting hit hard for clarity. Just one thing to add on vortex warranty should be the last thing that THE COMPANY rants about because let's face it I should never have to use the warranty. That being said my old PST and Viper both had to be sent in for parralax issues. Night force is a great scope but high priced and again clarity. Every scope has a flaw. IOR valdada have SuPERB clarity 75 moa elevation but dang they are heavy. I recently ran into sightron and from ALL the review of 50 cal and 338 shooting with them at 2200 yards I had to see what they were all about so I bought the SIII 6-24x50 . it has 100 moa elevation, better optics (in the shooters review it beat night force) its lightweight, sightron has a full custom shop with a warranty IF YOU NEED it. The sightron I bought I took it through a box test, tall target test, and shot it 1100 yards it by far blew my mind on how I have never seen a scope track as perfectly and precise as this scope. Oh ya and they are under 900.00. I found them as cheap as 742.00 for the siiiss624x50lrmoa. Do yourself a favor and don't buy a scope for their warranty that should be just a back up not their selling point.

I was talking to my G&F officer here and he said it has been brought up about making trail cameras illegal up north on the Kiabab and Strip because too many people are complaining that they can not hang a camera because if the numerous cameras already in one spot. His words! I really doubt that all the cameras you see at one pond are one persons and most likely numerous people. He did say people are complaining granted this was a few years back but this is what happens people start to complain. Personally if I saw more than one cam on a spot I would still hang my camera. Why not they are all there so no one is messing with them anyways you have a right to hang it there also. I guide but do not do it full time and usually take 1 client a year because of my work schedule. If I see a camera at "MY SPOT" lol then so be it I may or may not hang my cam. If people keep complaining they will not regulate it they will completely make it illegal to hang cameras. Look at the baiting issue. People complained that too many critters were being taken thank god they did not do away with it all the way but if people start complaining about the salt then guess what it will be gone too. I use to worry about who was going to be here, there any more I just went back to the way I use to hunt and enjoy myself as much as I can and quit worrying about what is going to happen. Scout, learn, hunt, and hunt even harder then you did before and it will pay off. I don't worry about what Joe is doing I just worry about myself.

Annealing Cases I thought I would do a little review for those hard core reloading nuts like me that do everything in preparation to achieve the best accuracy and precision for long range hunting/shooting. I have done just about everything that I can in case prep to achieve the best SD/ES with accuracy and precision this includes annealing your cases. Most anneal to extend case life, I anneal for accuracy. I will explain. It starts when you fire a case, then size the case you are work hardening the brass. You will eventually split your case necks if you do not anneal. Annealing softens the brass and in turn can help with accuracy too. I have found if I anneal after every firing I can keep my ES 9/SD 3 down in the single digits with extreme accuracy because the case necks are more uniform with tension. If I did not anneal every time then my ES 18/SD 9 was a little higher but not much I was able to stay under 20 fps at least. I started with hand annealing with 2 Benzomatic torches facing each other. I apply some 750 degree Tempilaq to the case so I know when it has annealed. When the Tempilaq melts you are at your desired temp. Annealing process is 650 degrees for 15 minutes or so BUT if we did that the heat would travel down the case to the case head which is what you do not want. So in order for it to anneal properly we need to bring the neck of the case to 750 degrees (most preferred temp). We can then quench in water. Some think that water would harden like metal but instead it does nothing. The case will remain soft. The reason why most quench is so the heat will not travel down to the case head. I have been annealing by hand with great success but when I started annealing after every firing it started to become a pain and inconsistent. The Ballistic Edge Model 400 annealing machine was well packaged with well explained instructions for set up. I had to do some playing but was able to start annealing within 30 minutes. I did well over 50 cases within 15 minutes. Cases rotate thru the dual flames as the shell-plate turns. Torch height is adjustable, as is torch angle and intensity. Torch holders will accept any 1/2" to 5/8" diameter tip. After passing through the flame, cases drop out after a quarter-turn. Underneath is a fan that can be turned on as needed when annealing shorter-height cases or for just keeping the case heads cooler. The model 400 shell-plate on top can be made for one caliber or multiple calibers. When researching the different machines I found out that if you have to mess with the speed of how fast the plate turns that was one more variable you had to deal with, the model 400 has a constant speed. Eliminating the need to adjust each torch after they were properly adjusted, both torch tips were hooked up to a 5 gal BBQ tank with a splitter making the propane tank as the on/off valve. In closing if you are trying to achieve the best accuracy, ES/SD, and case life then this is a step that you may want to take into consideration. First see if annealing will even help by hand annealing, if it does help then this maybe something to consider. If you rarely shoot then you are probably better off by hand annealing. I know this machine will last me my lifetime by just the way it was built. Personally the Model 400 is the best for the money, design, material used, and the one on one help. You can call Phil Keil (Ballistics Edge owner) and he would be more than happy to help you out at any time or you can visit his website at annealingmachines.com. I do not work for or are associated with Ballistic Edge MFG. This is my personal views.

I have been researching and believe it they DO HAVE a 140 gn SST BULLET (not loaded factory ammo but bullets). They do not list it on hornadys website. I learned something today. thanks

SPF

Still for sale 700.00