willhunt4coues

The burn will do nothing but good for the area. If your hunt is later in the year it will be good. If you are expecting it to be good this weekend that is a toss up but more than likely the area around the burn will be good but of course not the burn itself.

Still for sale 700.00

Once you shoot a Creedmoor you will understand. It is a very powerful, accurate, fun, cheap to load, lots of components, and precise. I can promise I will never own another caliber. I have had 30-06, 7mm, 7mm-08, .308, 300 wm, .260, 22-250, .223 and the Creedmoor ballistics is just amazing.

Well guys I did it again. I was so impressed by the repeat accuracy and precision from my first build I thought I would do another. This time I shopped around for months looking for a NEW donor action. My local gun shop had called me and told me he had found 3 of them. I wanted all 3 but could only get 1. The reason is the actions were COMPLETELY stripped, no triggers, no trigger housings not even the safety red dot. I was able to still get the action cheap enough I could order everything I needed from savage and other places. So I did. Here she is so far. Parts on gun: 6.5 creedmoor Shilen Stainless steel select match 26" 1:8 twist ratchet barrel HS Precision stock-Devcon bedded Karsten comb Northland Shooters Supply precision lug and trued nut Savage action model 10fcp w/factory trigger housing and firing pin PTG Bolt body PTG bolt head Rifle Basix trigger Valdada 20moa base and 30mm rings Parts still on there way: Sightron 6-24X50 LR FFP MOA scope (tuesday) Glades armory tactical bolt handle (today YAH) Tubb precision level (bubble level) (god knows when lol)

That is what it is all about right there. After the dust has settled and all the critters are asleep she will remember that day for the rest of her life. How awesome was that.

I level the base with a magnetic level, then I hang a plumb at 50 to 100 yards. I then set up the gun facing the plumb and leave the rings loose, while the scope is in the rings i level the scope with the plumb making sure the level on the gun remains level. I then tighten the tubb level on the scope so it is perfectly vertical with the plumb string I then proceed to tighten the rings making sure all levels line up with each other and double checking the plumb line with the levels. When all ring screws are torqued to 15 inch lbs then I remove 1 screw at a time and apply locktight. You can then do a tall target test at EXACTLY 100 yards (you need a large ground tape to measure 100 yards) to verify your cross hairs are tracking properly and to make sure you vertical line in your scope is truley vertical. You have to level the line on target too. Get the Applied ballistics dvd it will explain the tall target test.

I actually set the headspace the same on both rifles and use a body die for bumping shoulders .001. For the neck I use a bushing die and .289 bushings. I have .287, .288, .289, .290, .291 bushings and to change a bushing that takes 30 seconds.

She is all done except for the Tubb Level

You can call me if you would like. 928-200-0166

They look good but you need the level on the scope itself. I like the Tubb Levels sleek and smooth.

Thread pitch on the bolt handle is 5/16x24 so any aftermarket knob will work on this.

I ordered it friday and it was here monday. The Glades armory is first class mail. Know this I had to do a little bit of filing to the key hole on the handle to make it fit with my needle files. Key hole was just a little small and had burrs. Not PERFECT quality but still nice. Even my factory bolt handle is tight. I believe it is my PTG bolt body it is oversized but should have still fit fine. A little finesse and it will work.

I bedded the sides, front action and rear action screw, and recoil lug area. I didn't take pictures after it set and I should have. If I take the stock back off soon I will take a picture, I only bed up to the recoil lug everything in front of the lug I take a dremel and remove. The devcon bedding area: The Glades armory handle:

I have for sale like new Savage Model 11 Long Range Hunter 6.5 Creedmoor 26" **1700.00**. Comes with Valdada 6-24x50 35mm tube MP8 scope illuminated, Valdada base, Valdada Rings, open close muzzle break, accustock (work done to stock so stock was not touching barrel), accutrigger, karsten comb . This gun loves H4350 @ 42.2gn, 140 berger vld, Nosler or Hornady brass, CCI-BR2 primers this set up will produce a 1/4 moa group. Factory A max 140 will do 1/2 to 3/4 moa. If you are interested in Gun only I would be willing to sell just the gun 800.00 (no base, no rings and no scope). Scope was 1400.00, Gun 950, base 100. Gun has 200 rounds and was broke in correctly (shoot clean for 10, shoot 3 clean for 20, shoot 5 clean for 20.) I will post more pictures later.

Yes she is gone.

I like that they are vinyl

She weighs 11 lbs (with rings) and scope is 24 oz. So we are looking at probably 12.10 lbs. My other rifle weighs in at 14.50 lbs and can still carry her. My pack can carry the guns.

Its a 6.5 creedmoor. I have another rifle JUST like this one and am running H4350 @ 41.8 gn, Berger Vld 140gn, CBTO 2.190=.020 off lands, Nosler cases, CCI-BR2 primer. I can get 2815 fps with this load. I can travel up to 43.0 gn before pressure signs start but I am not a speed freak just precision.

SMOKIN deal here. Great donor rifle. If I had the cash I would. I just built another rifle so all my money is in it.

I have a client that has the hunt. He is out of the valley.

i HAVE THIS SAME STOVE IN MY 12X20 TENT AND IT HEATS IT JUST FINE. Sorry for the caps lock.

Okay guys this Savage Axis would be a great DONOR action meaning dissemble the entire rifle for just the action and build up from there, A savage action model 10 action with bolt and trigger is 515.00 alone. If you want to build a nice long action rifle the 30-06 savage axis would be a great donor. Great price. If I had not already started building I would buy this in a heart beat.

HuntHarder Take your scope right now at zero and dial DOWN (not up) and see how many MOA you used to zero your gun at 100 yards. MOST scopes I just mounted 1 nightforce on a 20 MOA base, 1 Sightron on a 20 moa base, and 1 IOR valdada on a 20 moa base. Every single one is zeroed now I can travel down with the turrets and all are within 20 to 30 moa to BOTTOM OUT THE TURRET. So back to what I was explaining you will ALWAYS use at least 20 moa (if when you get your scope completely bottom out the turret) you will see it takes around 20 to 40 moa JUST TO ZERO AT 100 YARDS (that is 20 moa to zero if you have a 20 moa base, and 40 moa to zero if you have a 0 moa base). So in reality lets say the scope has 50 moa TOTAL adjustment (you can check this when you get the scope just bottom out the turret and start dialing up to see its FULL range) then you have a 20 moa base. You take the gun out to sight it in and use 20 moa to zero it well now you will have only 30 moa left to travel UP for elevation shot which will get you 1000 yards but most just getting started don't know to get a scope with a lot of adjustments. Now lets go back and say that same 50 moa scope has a 0 moa base you will now use 30 to 40 moa to zero leaving you with only 20 to 10 moa of adjustments. Hutharder try your scope you will be surprised. The nightforce I just installed used 26 moa to zero at 100 yards, My IOR used 20 moa (if I got a 40 moa base I would be able to get FULL RANGE OF ADJUSTMENTS out of my scope 70 moa), sightron used 30 moa but still has 75 moa left and all of these have 20 moa bases take away that 20 moa base and you will have to add 20 moa to every scope. That is why they MAKE bases with 10,15,20,30,40 moa cants so you can use your scope FULL POTENTIAL.

Thanks guys!!! So far I have ordered all my goodies Scope, Barrel, Base, Rings, Trigger, stock man what a great birthday now just to put the build together....

Oh did not know they made H450. Thanks learn something everyday.