willhunt4coues

Do you mean H4350?

I have 2 pairs of the Jackels and love them. They support your ankle very well and feel like you are in tennis shoes. I was worried about being able to feel the rocks on my feet since their soles are not aggressive but have never had a problem. They are great for stalking game very quiet.

FFP (front focal plane) the sub-tensions (little marks in the scope which usually equal 1 or 2 moa) will remain consistent, so say you have a 6-24x50 scope and you are on 20x then you want to hold over 2moa on your shot instead of dialing the turret then you just hold over to 2. On a SFP scope (second focal plane) the sub-tensions only work at 24x. You can try to figure out the math on another power but it gets confusing and if your deer is 300 yards then 24x will probably be too much power. Parallax best way to describe it is focus and moving the reticle. So lets say your scope is out of focus at 100 yards move your head left/right & up/down you will see the reticle moves all around the target. When you focus (parallax adjust) then it should become clear and when you move your head around again you can see the reticle stay on target and not move. you may only want to shoot 700 yards but still get a scope that adjusts at least 70 moa. Even with a 20 moa base you can still use 20 moa just getting a zero leaving you with 50 moa. Now lets say you get a 70 moa scope with a 0 moa base you may use 30 to 40 moa just to get a zero leaving you with 30 or 40 moa of adjustments which is enough to get to 1000 yards depending on caliber and ballistics. Lets say you get a 50 moa scope (most non long range scopes are this) and you use a 0 moa base now you only have 10 to 20 moa and thats it. So don't chance it get the scope with the best clarity, tracking, MOA adjustments, for the money. You can never have too many MOA but you don't want to get a scope that does not have enough then you have to sell it and get one that does you will be losing money then. Check out every review you can. Look at the new Nightforce SHV 5-20x56, Sightron 6-24x50 (you will love the moa reticle has a floating dot). These scope are between 742.00 to 1100.00 worth every penny and more.

There is a top line shooter doing a review right now and vortex and night force are getting hit hard for clarity. Just one thing to add on vortex warranty should be the last thing that THE COMPANY rants about because let's face it I should never have to use the warranty. That being said my old PST and Viper both had to be sent in for parralax issues. Night force is a great scope but high priced and again clarity. Every scope has a flaw. IOR valdada have SuPERB clarity 75 moa elevation but dang they are heavy. I recently ran into sightron and from ALL the review of 50 cal and 338 shooting with them at 2200 yards I had to see what they were all about so I bought the SIII 6-24x50 . it has 100 moa elevation, better optics (in the shooters review it beat night force) its lightweight, sightron has a full custom shop with a warranty IF YOU NEED it. The sightron I bought I took it through a box test, tall target test, and shot it 1100 yards it by far blew my mind on how I have never seen a scope track as perfectly and precise as this scope. Oh ya and they are under 900.00. I found them as cheap as 742.00 for the siiiss624x50lrmoa. Do yourself a favor and don't buy a scope for their warranty that should be just a back up not their selling point.

I was talking to my G&F officer here and he said it has been brought up about making trail cameras illegal up north on the Kiabab and Strip because too many people are complaining that they can not hang a camera because if the numerous cameras already in one spot. His words! I really doubt that all the cameras you see at one pond are one persons and most likely numerous people. He did say people are complaining granted this was a few years back but this is what happens people start to complain. Personally if I saw more than one cam on a spot I would still hang my camera. Why not they are all there so no one is messing with them anyways you have a right to hang it there also. I guide but do not do it full time and usually take 1 client a year because of my work schedule. If I see a camera at "MY SPOT" lol then so be it I may or may not hang my cam. If people keep complaining they will not regulate it they will completely make it illegal to hang cameras. Look at the baiting issue. People complained that too many critters were being taken thank god they did not do away with it all the way but if people start complaining about the salt then guess what it will be gone too. I use to worry about who was going to be here, there any more I just went back to the way I use to hunt and enjoy myself as much as I can and quit worrying about what is going to happen. Scout, learn, hunt, and hunt even harder then you did before and it will pay off. I don't worry about what Joe is doing I just worry about myself.

Annealing Cases I thought I would do a little review for those hard core reloading nuts like me that do everything in preparation to achieve the best accuracy and precision for long range hunting/shooting. I have done just about everything that I can in case prep to achieve the best SD/ES with accuracy and precision this includes annealing your cases. Most anneal to extend case life, I anneal for accuracy. I will explain. It starts when you fire a case, then size the case you are work hardening the brass. You will eventually split your case necks if you do not anneal. Annealing softens the brass and in turn can help with accuracy too. I have found if I anneal after every firing I can keep my ES 9/SD 3 down in the single digits with extreme accuracy because the case necks are more uniform with tension. If I did not anneal every time then my ES 18/SD 9 was a little higher but not much I was able to stay under 20 fps at least. I started with hand annealing with 2 Benzomatic torches facing each other. I apply some 750 degree Tempilaq to the case so I know when it has annealed. When the Tempilaq melts you are at your desired temp. Annealing process is 650 degrees for 15 minutes or so BUT if we did that the heat would travel down the case to the case head which is what you do not want. So in order for it to anneal properly we need to bring the neck of the case to 750 degrees (most preferred temp). We can then quench in water. Some think that water would harden like metal but instead it does nothing. The case will remain soft. The reason why most quench is so the heat will not travel down to the case head. I have been annealing by hand with great success but when I started annealing after every firing it started to become a pain and inconsistent. The Ballistic Edge Model 400 annealing machine was well packaged with well explained instructions for set up. I had to do some playing but was able to start annealing within 30 minutes. I did well over 50 cases within 15 minutes. Cases rotate thru the dual flames as the shell-plate turns. Torch height is adjustable, as is torch angle and intensity. Torch holders will accept any 1/2" to 5/8" diameter tip. After passing through the flame, cases drop out after a quarter-turn. Underneath is a fan that can be turned on as needed when annealing shorter-height cases or for just keeping the case heads cooler. The model 400 shell-plate on top can be made for one caliber or multiple calibers. When researching the different machines I found out that if you have to mess with the speed of how fast the plate turns that was one more variable you had to deal with, the model 400 has a constant speed. Eliminating the need to adjust each torch after they were properly adjusted, both torch tips were hooked up to a 5 gal BBQ tank with a splitter making the propane tank as the on/off valve. In closing if you are trying to achieve the best accuracy, ES/SD, and case life then this is a step that you may want to take into consideration. First see if annealing will even help by hand annealing, if it does help then this maybe something to consider. If you rarely shoot then you are probably better off by hand annealing. I know this machine will last me my lifetime by just the way it was built. Personally the Model 400 is the best for the money, design, material used, and the one on one help. You can call Phil Keil (Ballistics Edge owner) and he would be more than happy to help you out at any time or you can visit his website at annealingmachines.com. I do not work for or are associated with Ballistic Edge MFG. This is my personal views.

I have been researching and believe it they DO HAVE a 140 gn SST BULLET (not loaded factory ammo but bullets). They do not list it on hornadys website. I learned something today. thanks

SPF

Still for sale 700.00

pm replied

If you buy the same lot # you should have great consistency but when you change lots thats when numbers change. The 6.5 Creedmoor is known for its accuracy, precision, recoil like a 22/250, and long range capabilities. Believe it or not this gun out performed my Model 10 6.5 creedmoor. I believe it is the barrel length difference. I could not get my mod 10 to do any better than 3/4 inch and the model 11 at 1/4 inch so thats why I rebuilt my model 10. I am in the process of building another. I was going to use the model 11 to build but would rather sell then completely rip apart a gun that shoots great.

I shot the coyote with the 129 grain sst (They don't make a 139 gn sst). Anyways I have hit 2975 fps with some of the 129 sst and most boxes are at 2950 fps. There is some guys over seas that are using the amax to take goats at 900 to 1000 yards and they amax are out performing the bergers. Go figure. here is the link http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/Wound+Database/6.5mm+-+Hornady+A-Max.html

Globe/Miami Arizona

I was going to grab the Leica but went with the G7 for my applications and as much as I shoot. The Leica 1600 is worth the money. If you want spot on results for long range ballistics get the G7BR2 from Gunworks guys. It cost a lot more but can tell you personally it is worth every penny.

With the numbers I have you can easily take an elk at 850 yards with this rifle and would not hesitate since i practice at this yardage all the time. I get about 2850 fps with factory and reloads. Again I have all load work up on this gun.

I always bump my shoulders .001 after every firing. I am achieving the best accuracy doing this. I was just neck sizing but found out that bumping actually improved my accuracy. like 308nut said quenching does not harden the case. Most quench so the heat does not travel through the body of the case because the body and head it HAS to remain hard. If it were to soften then you would have case head separation. You can get some 450 templaq and paint a line from the neck to the base, then put 750 on the inside of the neck and start annealing. As soon as you see the 750 melt then look to see how far the 450 has melted down the case and you will see it does not travel any more than 1/3 down the case verifying that you have not softened the case you will see as soon as you take away the heat when 750 melts you will see the 450 stop at the 1/3 mark and in reality you do not need to quench. At 480 degrees brass starts to change form not much but this is the start.

The main thing to remember is to bring your cases to the correct temp. I have tried bringing them to 650, 700, 750, and 800. The 650 & 700 my es 15/sd 5 was all over the place but with 750 to 800 i have es 5/ sd 1. If you do it by hand that is great I use to do it by hand but as much as I shoot it got annoying. Still even by hand get you some templaq 750 and 800 and apply this on the inside of of neck on a few trash cases so you know exactly how long to keep the brass in the flame and the color it turns. The templaq just lets you know yes you brought it up to that temp then you can quench or knock it over in the water. It will make a world of difference knowing you brought it up to the right temp.

I use a bushing die but have the stuff to turn but did not need to with nosler cases.

No trades.

This gun will produce 1/2 to 3/4 moa with factory loads. Hornady, nosler, and winchester all make loaded factory ammo from around 22.00 to 30.00

I am selling the gun and scope combo for what I bough the scope and base for. So really buy a scope and base and get a free gun!!! I WILL NOT GO ANY LOWER. I am about 500.00 below what I really wanted. I have all the load work up for this gun. So you can just load up some rounds at all my numbers and start shooting 1/4 to 1/2 groups all day. I have also cleaned this gun after every outing so she is always in clean shape.

Price drop to ***1700.00***

Get you some plumbers putty to put in the holes and action. See attached picture. before all prepped ready for devcon After devcon and dremmel work

I don't mind annealing your cases but the only plate at this time I have excepts .308 sizes. SO if anyone would like theirs done you can bring me your cases and I will anneal them for 30.00 per 100.

Most gunsmiths will use Devcon steel putty to bed an action. Your barrel has harmonics and it is best to leave it free floating from the recoil lug forward, There are some that will pick a load and bed an inch at a time forward of the lug (bedding at the start of the barrel recoil lug forward) and keep adding an inch at a time till they achieve the group that they want with said load. This is real.