NMBPMAN

In SFP scopes the reticle is only supposed to be true to measurement when the scope is on its highest magnification setting. FFP scopes change the size of the reticle when you change the magnification so the measurements are the same no matter what the scope is set on. As far as what the ratio turns into at different magnification settings you’ll more than likely have to spend some time at the range figuring that out unless someone on here or the internet has already done all that.

Can you see if his friend has a shell for a Titan, maybe we can get a package deal on shipping two of them? 😂

The girls vs boy’s statement couldn’t be more true!! My daughter is a lot easier to teach than my two boys. I think it’s because girls don’t have that competitive streak with their little buddies so there really isn’t any pressure on them making the shot.

You should try to get with @levers on here, he posts a lot of older rifles for sale, he might have a better idea for you

Honestly, you’ll get 100 different answers on what works. With all three of my kids they’ve shot everything prone from a bipod and I also carry a small, lightweight, rear bag. Depending on the years rain, and where I’m at, I may throw my 12-25” bipod in my bag just in case. I always have a 9-13” bipod on my guns. There’s almost always going to be grass, etc….. I normally try find a shooting spot where I’m glassing, but sometimes you might have to be creative and make a spot to shoot from. My kids are all skinny too, so not much upper body strength to be holding a scoped hunting rifle in awkward positions. I tried the triclawps thing when my daughter was 10, she just couldn’t keep it from bouncing without carrying more junk to support the rear end. When they were all that age I would get rifle set up with the crosshairs hovering on the buck, then it was up to them to control the rear bag as I had taught them. I generally try to sit behind my tripod, on the bolt handle side of the rifle to make scope adjustments or help manipulate the bolt if they manage to get hung up, which they will, haha. Meanwhile, constantly reminding them to get the rifle in their shoulder and not under it so we can avoid any child meltdowns after getting scoped in the eye. Sometimes on their first and second hunt, it helps to have a third wheel to spot and keep eyes on the deer as you will be busy helping them with the gun manipulation. These things are what I’ve always done, that have worked for my kids. They’ve made some amazing shots on deer and cow elk because they were stable and not fighting their gun bouncing around.

I was going to write up more but there are too many variables to account for based on the limited information. If it were me, I would start by replacing the scope. I’ve had less than stellar results with anything Vortex, not trying to bash but rather inform you based on my own experiences. I don’t know from personal experience how your rifle groups but I know of at least one guy with that rifle and his shoots pretty well with factory ammo. There’s a few guys on here that may be local to you that could probably help, but being that it’s hunting season, most are probably going to be busy. You have to start with a good zero, that’s an absolute must before you can start cranking turrets and hitting the long targets. As far as chronographs go, they get you close but not exact. Search the internet for “trueing your muzzle velocity” there’s numerous write ups on the subject.

I have these, but probably the same issue with distance for you, but here you go anyway.

Bigmuleyfan, Butch is a great guy to buy a rifle from. I bought a rifle from him last year. When he says he takes care of his rifles, he means it. The rifle I bought from him was pristine. Buy with confidence.

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