Reloading Question

[deserttacoma84]

Getting ready to start reloading for 300WSM and 270WSM. Going to be using Barnes TTSX Boattails, 130GR for the 270 and 140GR for the 300. Using Redding FL 2 Die Set, I have a question that has come up and reading around there is no precise answer. Should I Crimp after seating using a "light" Crimp or is the Resizing Die enough push the neck back without needing to crimp? Sounds like most answers are that there is a majority of non-crimpers for bolt action rifles... Any help is appreciated.

 

Thanks

[Mike S]

No crimp needed.

Mike

[Couzer]

No crimp needed.

Mike

+ 1

 

I think all factory ammo is crimped just so the bullet does not seat back into the brass creating higher presures. Crimping can be difficult if your new to it IMO because you dont want to crimp it to much jacking the presures way up when that round struggles from comming out.

The only thing that I crimp is my lever action rifles (hence that the bullets sit on top of each other) that have a tube fed magazine and most of my pistols. Also I am starting to crimp my semi automatic rifles (223 A-15) as well to ensure that the bullet does not move at all in the magazine from being loaded into the chamber.

For all my bolt action rifles I do not crimp them. This is just my 2 cents, but there are some guys that do crimp everything and alot of members on here that can give you some more information like Lark and 308nut.

[Mike S]

Another thing to consider is that as you optimize your seating depth for a particular rifle the crimping groove (if there even is one) may not line up anyway. You won't have any issues with a bolt action with no crimp.

Mike

[Couzer]

+ 1 mike

[rcdinaz]

No crimp, this is only necessary for some handgun loads and for military loads (semi/full auto) where the ammo is slammed home by an auto mechanism, they also have to assume the ammo is going to be abused and the bullet needs to have no chance of moving in the case.